An introduction and question

Can't figure out how to do the quote thing... I'll work on that. Gary, would it not be the same operating principle for a drum brake?
 
Sorry about being the wrong model. I shoulda known.:banghead:. You got some great bones to work with. Can’t wait to see the finished product.:cheers:
 
I just saw one on EBay. For the xs1 it’s a slip on perch. Much like the clutch lever perch. There’s got to be that hole in the bottom. Wasn’t a pic from underneath on the one I saw.
 
Partzilla shows the XS1s and XS2s and a bunch of other Yamahas having the same switch.

Yupper and they're kind of fragile.
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Morning all. Well it's been awhile but not without progress. I have deiced to proceed with the bike project changing it from kick only to electric start. So like others this will be a restoration with mods. I had great success with my Craig's List ad and scored a late model engine with a bunch of extra parts. So with an electric start engine in hand the disassembly began.
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Couple of note worthy mentions.
First to Mailman. Your XS2 full on restoration thread has and will be my go to place for help.
Second to Jim. As can be seen, my engine lift in all it's yellow glory is but one of my tributes to your 80's restoration and a few mods thread.

I too would like to share my project with you all, but need to ask where would be the appropriate forum to do so? I see that MM and Jim used the Garage forum. Should I start a new one there?

moved :cool:
 
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Second to Jim. As can be seen, my engine lift in all it's yellow glory is but one of my tributes to your 80's restoration and a few mods thread.
Had to do a double take when I saw that lift. You even copied the tilt mechanism. Color me yellow impressed. ;)
 
Pete, thanks and the mods will be mostly upgrades to charging, ignition and starter circuit. There will be others I'm sure but the plan is to keep it as stock looking as possible.

Jim, I saw no need to reinvent your wheel. Hell, even the color, Safety Yellow, makes sense.

Today I was sorting out headlight mounting and looking at the condition of the parts. The little rings at the bottom of the fork tube sleeves (proper nomenclature ?????) were in really bad shape. Options could include painting them, finding ones in good shape, which would be difficult and pricey at best, or make a new set. I picked door number three.
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I'll buff them out when I break out the buffing set up and the old ones will go into the "parts not used box", for safe keeping.
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....... The little rings at the bottom of the fork tube sleeves (proper nomenclature ?????) were in really bad shape. Options could include painting them, finding ones in good shape, which would be difficult and pricey at best, or make a new set. I picked door number three.
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I'll buff them out when I break out the buffing set up and the old ones will go into the "parts not used box", for safe keeping.
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Could be made just a touch longer to take up the slack when changing to tapered steering bearings!
 
Well finally got back to the bike. Before I completely stripped the frame for powder coat I wanted to get the front motor mounts built. That was today's goal. Stock parts are .180" thick so I went with 3/16" cold roll flat stock, which is .187". Trip to my favorite "metal store" scored me just what I needed. Put the stock ones over the flat stock and traced out a rough pattern. Bit of time at the band saw and on the disc sander I had the engine side profile done. Again laying the stock part over the flat blank I eyeballed the engine mounting hole. Center punch, pilot hole and final drill through with a letter X drill, which is a perfect slip fit over the 10mm bolt, I had the blank ready to bolt to the engine and transfer punch the frame mounting holes. Back to the drill press and disc sander and the flats were almost mounts. Just FYI I did one hole at a time to ensure I had good alignment.
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Because the lower frame mount is offset from the upper I bolted the mount flats up and measured the gap between frame and mount. Bit of time at the lathe and the spacers were done
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I made the spacers with a step because I want to tig them to the mount plate which should be a much better looking weld than a mig weld. We'll see if this holds true as l'l be heading up to a friend's shop tomorrow to do the that. After that, set the parts up in the mill and bore the 1" diameter hole in them so they look more like the originals.

Just for those that might be interested in how much difference there is between a 71 engine and later model engine I took a shot with the original mount over the one I fabbed up. Difference is about 1/2 a hole
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When all is done I'll post pics of the finished mounts. It may be a few days because my buddy with the shop has more work than he can handle and asked to to help get him caught up. Which is not a bad way to spend a few days. Making chips, a few bucks and a "real" machine shop I can use. :cheers:
 
Sweet fabrication work there Jake.

:twocents::twocents: early frames are noted to be a bit flexy.
I've been thinking that a bit of a cross brace tying the sides together at the front may help stabilize the down tubes a bit more. Don't think it would need to be as bulky as the later "rat trap" mount to be helpful.
 
Jake,
I have somehow missed seeing your posts. I just finished catching up, I’m really impressed with the direction you’re taking on your bike, you’re moving right along with it. I’m following with interest, this looks like it’s gonna be a fun one! It’s a real advantage for you to have welding and fabricating skills. Good luck!
Oh...and welcome to the mad house! :smoke:
Bob
 
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