What have you done to your XS today?

I had a slow leak along the rim of a tubeless bike tyre so removed the tyre and thoroughly cleaned the alloy wheel. Previously I have used dish washing liquid in water to assist with getting tyres on but it has been my experience that the rubber quickly dries and most of the solution runs off. This time I took a new approach. I prepared a soap paste by putting some non-perfumed soap through a cheese grater. I grated approximately one heaped tablespoon of soap and placed it in a pot with 1 cup of water and heated to the boil to dissolve. On cooling the soap solution formed a very thick paste which could be applied around the bead with a paint brush. Because it was thick it stuck to the tyre and did not dry out quickly. This soap paste made the job so easy by lubricating the tyre levers that the tyre just popping back on with minimal effort. I only wish I had tried this years ago.
 
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Good Bones '78 Goes Silver
Trying on the " dark steel" metallic silver rattle can painted tins. Yamaha badges are across the border now, thank you Machine and MaxPete. Also have side cover stickers to apply.
Repaired rear tail light and rear direction indicators, set up rear brake and installed new Motion Pro clutch cable. Filled the carbs and started it, clutch action almost perfect.
It's going back in the corner now so I can check over the red '76 VYR bike.
 
Lemme tell ya - that Lakeview is a hard worker!

I dropped out to the country estate the other night (and I do mean night) and had a listen to those Sportster mufflers on that ‘78 and they sound absolutely great. They look superb as well - HD chrome is really well done and the fit is like a factory job.

If you need mufflers for your XS650, you’d be hard pressed to find a nicer set than those stock HD Sportster mufflers. From what I have seen, they are widely available as take-offs at HD swap meets all over the place because the Harley crowd likes loud custom pipes and often seems to sell these off.

Lakeview - has built yet another really nice bike that runs well and looks very pretty.

Pete
 
Thursday I cleaned the bike for the first time in a long time and then touched up the spots around the bike where the black was either flaking or rubbed off. Then this morning I put on the header wrap that showed up Friday and then took nicer pictures of it than I've ever taken.
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I love that picture, I'm thinking that's going to end up poster size on my wall somewhere.
 
Today was bike cleanup day at the Disaster Central Workshop:
  • I washed Sylvia (2007 Honda ST1300) and boy, did she need a bath after a nearly 4000 km run in six days (only 4 days of actual riding) some of which was in the rain. That thing is amazing though - not a single burp out of it and nearly 50 MPIG average.
  • I washed Lucille (1976 XS650C) and did a bunch of things in preparation for the big VYR expedition with Lakeview which starts with loading the bikes into his Chevy Express van on Tuesday evening and an early departure on Wednesday morning.
Lucille’s tasks included: checking the lights and horn; replacing the instrument lights with LED bulbs (brighter and should last forever in contrast to the incandescent bulbs which only last me about 2 hours it seems); removing and cleaning the alternator brushes (still within spec for length and charging at 13.15 volts); removing the shift pedal and grinding open the “pinch gap” to avoid stripping the shifter shaft spline; checking and adjusting the brakes; re-torquing the cylinder head and all of the chassis bolts; adjusting the timing chain tension and valves; changing the plugs and re-coating the insides of the HT lead ends with dielectric grease; and cleaning and lubricating all of the locks and the key switch.

The last task is to change the oil and filters and check and clean the air filters, but it started to rain before my test ride so I couldn’t warm up the engine. Thus, those little tasks will wait until tomorrow, along with packing.

I also did a few things on the ‘78E including checking over the tank that Gordon in NC generously sent me. It’s a good thing he did because my suspicions were confirmed this week that the original tank that Robin had for this bike is almost totally rotted out in the entire tunnel area. Every time the welder tried to braze it - more holes would open up - so that one is a loss.

The business of opening up the “pinch gap” on your shift pedal is important folks, as was pointed out a week or two ago by, I think Gary, 5Twins or TwoMany (apologies if I got that wrong - I just don’t recall).

Basically, you should give your shift pedal a little wiggle to see if it can move relative to the shifter shaft on which is mounted. If it is loose, you are at-risk of stripping the splines on either the pedal or the shifter shaft. If you strip the pedal, it’s a PITA but you’ll live. However, if you strip the shaft, you will have to remove and dismantle the entire engine - including splitting the crankcase - to install a new shifter shaft. That would be a heck of a lot of expense and work - and it is totally unnecessary.

The shift pedals on ALL THREE of my XS650s were loose when I checked them today - and so this is likely a very common defect on our XS650s. I’ve already fixed the one on my VYR bike and I will do the other two tomorrow now that I have located the proper equipment.

All you do is remove your loose shift pedal and run a thin Dremel or die-grinder cut-off wheel through the gap where the pinch bolt clamps the pedal to secure it to the shifter shaft (remove the bolt first ...duhhhhh) to create a wider pinch gap. Then just reinstall the pedal and pinch bolt and ensure that the pedal fits tightly on the shifter shaft - and you are done. Truly, a five minute fix of a potentially serious problem.

Cheers,

Pete
 
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alternator brushes (still within spec for length and charging at 13.15 volts
Pete 13.15 is a volt low. You might want to recheck that after a 20 minuet ride.
However, if you strip the shaft, you will have to remove and dismantle the entire engine - including splitting the crankcase - to install a new shifter shaft
I may be wrong but I sure the shaft can be changed without removing the engine. I agree stripping the splines is something to be avoided.
 
after a 20 minuet ride.

Hmmmm....yeah I guess but the darned thing keeps starting up on the button every time and I’m pretty sure that my volt meter is good....

Fortunately, I’ve got one of Jim’s excellent re-wound rotors in reserve if this one pooches.

I’ll check it though - but I’m not much of a dancer ;)
 
I have the 'Bigfoot' lever from Mike's and have that same issue......even after using a longer bolt and a nut on the bottom to lock the threads against themselves. There is still plenty of 'gap' there but loosens soon after tightening and I know the bolt is not backing off. I believe it is softer metal than could be used......
 
I have the 'Bigfoot' lever from Mike's and have that same issue......even after using a longer bolt and a nut on the bottom to lock the threads against themselves. There is still plenty of 'gap' there but loosens soon after tightening and I know the bolt is not backing off. I believe it is softer metal than could be used......

Hmmmm....well, that could become a big deal JAX. If you strip that shaft, yuk.
 
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Improved Ignition - 10 Amp for illustrative purposes only - use a 20 Amp in this '76.

Worked on the red VYR bike to get it ready today. Oil change, new plugs, valve and cam chain check, grease swing arm and general look over.

It had been shutting off erratically lately; after the first time knew to take off the side cover and check the fuse. When it quit in Windsor, MaxPete reminded me that it had to be a 20 Amp fuse, but a couple weeks later it stopped in a left turn lane.
Easy to duck walk it off to safety and simply wiggled the fuse holder, got back power and today replaced it. Found that a p o had made up a male connector with some solder and carried on. All better now.
No it is not getting the Sportster blend exhaust for the Rally. One thing I learned when I was Harley rider is to not make any big changes before a trip. Test them around town first.
 
Hmmmm....yeah I guess but the darned thing keeps starting up on the button every time and I’m pretty sure that my volt meter is good....
Not saying it doesn't. Back in the bad old days 14.2 was what you shot for. If you you are using a battery tender and using it after rides it will keep the battery charged up.
13.2 could cause a problem if not using a tender. Mainly you would see shorter battery life.
 
Not saying it doesn't. Back in the bad old days 14.2 was what you shot for. If you you are using a battery tender and using it after rides it will keep the battery charged up.
13.2 could cause a problem if not using a tender. Mainly you would see shorter battery life.

Yes - I’ve been thinking about that since the battery is now about 3-1/2 years old. I think I may bring a tender to the VYR or swap Lucille’s battery with the on in the ‘78 (it is new this year).

Decisions...decisions....
 
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