Rotor timing 180 off

[MitchMan]

Hey everyone, trying to get this thing figured out. It seems as tho my rotor is 180off from where it should be. I pulled the rotor, key is still there but when the Piston reaches TDC (+/- what I can see by eye) the mark is around 10 o'clock. I don't know how/what/why to fix this. Any ideas are welcome. I've attached pictures of the rotor coming up on compression, and the Piston at the equivalent spot.

 

[Jim]

Well... for starters, your bike appears to be a mutt. You've got a 79 or older rotor... the stator is drilled for the 80 and up TCI iggy system... has the brown brush wire for the newer 'A' type combined reg/rec, yet it has the older 'B' type brushes. So right from the jump we got lot's of mix and match goin' on here. Tell us more about the bike and what's been done and maybe we can figure this mystery out. Pics help too. We like pics.

 

[Jim]

BTW... bein' a mutt ain't a bad thing. Some of my best friends have been mutts.

 

[MitchMan]

Well Jim I just picked up the bike not too long ago, month or two at this point and previous owner was a bit of a p-t bike builder for friends and long story short put this together for his buddy as a first bike. Terrible idea to have a chopper as a first bike but to each their own. He told me he replaced the stator because it wasn't charging, when I showed up to look at it, it started, but it didn't run very long cause it was kinda late and apparently his neighbours get pissy, anyhow I can get it started but it idles high, and backfires and stutters on throttle.

Registration tells me it's an 81 but from everything I've read and seen i was getting the impression it was a mutt. It's got a points Iggy with advance and running a battery with kick only. Open exhaust with pod filters on the carbs (bs34 I think) that need to be jetted ( I think )

Here's the bike, let me know what your thinking.

 

[MitchMan]

Here's pics of my points, advance unit and my battery box / electrical mess.

 

[gggGary]

Hey Jim you are the expert but If the rotor has been pressed apart, rewound it can be put back together in a somewhat random position? Since it's not a TCI it doesn't really matter, just establish and mark TDC on the rotor, use that for timing.
PS those slip rings look pretty ratty.

 

[MitchMan]

Is there an obvious sign I can look for that will tell me if my rotor has been rewound? My goal was to get everything running well and eventually swap to a pma electronic ignition.

 

[gggGary]

Have you ohmed out the slip rings? VOM set to lowest ohm position, should read about 5 ohms across the two rings. Easiest to do it with the stator off.
A pic of the SIDE of the rotor will probably reveal if it's been rewound.

 

[5twins]

I agree with Gary. What you're seeing isn't possible unless the rotor was taken apart and reassembled incorrectly.

 

[Jim]

.....rewound it can be put back together in a somewhat random position?

Yeah.... it can easily be put back together 180 out, or any other position for that matter. And that's about all I got too.
As Gary sez, if it reads about 5ohms and is charging OK, just scribe a TDC mark on it and use it.
You'd have to pull the stator to see if the rotor is rewound. Here's the tell....

 

[Jim]

Been ponderin' this.... If someone rewound the rotor and reassembled it 180 out, it's most definitely not a professionally done job. That's pretty amateurish.
I don't think I'd trust it.

 

[MitchMan]

So the winding is wraped in this cloth like stuff. Ohm reading is 4.5 - 4.8 so I think that's good. Also inside my stator is kinda grimy, not sure if that should be cleaned out or not.

There's also a pic of the old stator, PO had replaced it cause he told me it wasn't charging.

Thanks for all the help guys. I know we can figure this out together haha

 

[gggGary]

Well it looks like a rewind. Some use a heavier shorter wire that will ohm out in that range. Get or devise a piston stop, mark TDC and you should be good to go.