The only problem with the HFT (cheapie) drill press is, even though it's a 5-speed, all the speeds are too damn fast! The bigger the hole, the slower the bit...
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Mailmans , 77D getting a makeover
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
Maybe a heavy duty light dimmer to slow it down?
According to HF it draws 2.4 amps. Light dimmers don't reduce voltage. They reduce duty cycle. I have had good results reducing speed of lightly loaded motors with light dimmers.
Mailman, I hate ya', just hate ya'! Damn good work! I'm still waiting on a pretty day to paint my tank!
Thu
Thu
HF review for speed controller.
Yup. I saw that. I might have to take a chance, and get me one of those. If it doesn't work with the drill press, I do have a router I can use it on...
One way or another, "The Basketcase" is gonna have a drilled front brake rotor...
One way or another, "The Basketcase" is gonna have a drilled front brake rotor...
Yeah, I shoulda never got rid of my drill press! I’m sure not doing that by hand!
This guy is in Phoenix.
Your bbbBuddy gggGary.Hi all. I am selling my mvn mill. I have the complete mill unassembled. I will sell all for $350. Great buy for someone wanting to rebuild a mill. Contact me at spaquette54@... for pictures and discussion.
And it wouldn't violate your Two Bike rule!
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I can see it now. A mill rebuild thread.This guy is in Phoenix.
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Hi all. I am selling my mvn mill. I have the complete mill unassembled. I will sell all for $350. Great buy for someone wanting to rebuild a mill. Contact me at spaquette54@... for pictures and discussion.
Go for it Mailman.
Yeah - go for it Mailman - Laura won't mind.....
I would pull the bleed nipple out or mask it off. Don't want to plug it with paint.
A black nipple would look almost as bad as green gaskets.
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Us green gasket people are sick of you racists..........my green cylinder base gasket just oozes persona, lol
GeeDub
Operation Stop that Squeal!!
Ok, I got kinda stalled out on this for a while. Here’s where I’m at, the caliper and the caliper carrier have been cleaned and painted with high temp caliper paint. The front disc has been cleaned, surfaced and measured to confirm that everything was in spec. The man from Baraboo has supplied me with a couple of the mysterious and unobtainable brake pad shims. I’ve got a pile of new parts on my bench top and I’m ready to make the magic happen.
When the shims arrived the condition was pretty rough, they had been well used.
The shims are metal, but I’m not exactly sure what the coating is, it feels tougher than paint, almost like a thin vinyl.
However it was in poor condition, so I stripped them and painted them with the same caliper paint that I used to paint the caliper.
My parts ready to assemble,
In the plastic bag is another of the factory attempts at stopping brake squeal, inside that chrome clip are a couple little thin squares of thin ( vinyl ? ) It gets mounted in the front location. Normally a caliper would not have both the brake pad shims and that chrome clip replacement. But, I’ve got both and they won’t interfere with each other , so What the heck, I’m throwing them all in.
Here are some detail shots showing how the shims are installed behind the brake pads. The weird shapes of these things are frankly baffling to me.
Edit: Please note, in the photo below, the position of the shim is incorrect. It should be flipped over, end for end.
And here the new chrome clip installed in the front of the carrier.
Everything assembled and ready to install. I chose not to apply grease anywhere in this assembly because the last time I did, it wound up in unintended locations and created a real mess.
And installed back on the forks.
Next up I will need to hook up my front brake line and bleed the brakes.
Observation: the brake pads from EBC are pretty thick as it is and the new shims, even though they are very thin, they add additional thickness. Fitting the caliper back on over the disc was a little snug. I will have to see if it drags too much. I’m also curious if my painted shims will still perform as well as the original coating.
To be continued.........
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I don't think the coating will affect anything... was prolly just a powder coating of some sort. I'm guessing the shape is the fix. A brake squeal is nothing more than a high frequency vibration that (comes close to) matching the harmonics of the pads or the rotor. Changing the shape of either changes the harmonics of the vibration and reduces or eliminates the squeal. The shims effectively change the shape of the pads.
Hows that for goin' all geek on a post...
...bleeding key too, one little bubble may not make brake feel spongy, but can cause squealing... I make extra long bleeder hose go back into resevoir and use clear tube...just do not spill even a drop on pads or rotor...
No change to the pads, not much change to the disc, I'm sitting on the edge of my seat/couch.
Manufacturers originally installed calipers ahead of the tubes. The braking force pulled against the mounting bolts. Fashion, magazines, and a bit of improved weight distribution, moved them behind the tubes, the force now pushes against the mounting bolts AND the push is at an angle, the rotor is offset from mounts. Both those contribute to the possibility of vibration. The angled force is why the odd shim shape, they help counter the tendency of the pads to wear at an angle. If you envision how the stopping force tends to move the pads and shims you'll get the two different shapes. Modern sport bikes get radial caliper mounts to counter this.
Just my two cents worth on EBC. I used them on my Roadstar and have gone thru a few sets of different models. The HH semi sintered was the best stopping power over the organic ones Bob has installed but at a price to the discs. Wear down the discs easy but not much dust. Last winter I redid my whole brake setup including new stainless lines, rebuilt calipers and new organic pads. Near the same stopping power with a little more dust rather than a chewed up disc. Will continue to use Organic pads. Maybe next go around will try out oem pads on my xs vs the ones I have now. JC
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