Miss November XS2 tribute

pity.......this engine lift is a great solution . At least two of our members have made this solution

I copied my lift from OB. It was a left side unit but I soon flipped the carriage over to remove the engine from the right. I see he has now done the same.
I made quick disconnects for mine using threaded rod slotted on the end and welded in washers. Just roll it up, stick a bolt thru the washers/ mounts, jack it up and back it out. No engine hoist, plus an adapter needed. But if you don't have a way to build it... Yeah, been there done that.

Thu
 
Machine, we crossed in the post. Would gumming it with Yamabond work?
I'm with Machine. Yes, remove the screw, Clean the oil out with brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Use yamabond ( I use #4) and let it set up over nite. It will hold the leak. ( If you put fix on top of fix the problem usually gets worse unless you have a damn good Machinist.) As long as everything tightens up like it's supposed to, yamabond will fix the leak.
Thu
 
Thank you, Gentlemen. Forgive me, Machine, I tend to be a bit flippant but did not mean to disparage Yamabond by saying gumming it up. My pals have always referred to gasket compounds in general as goo or gum.

I haven't used Yamabond and never heard of it until I came here. I've checked and it is available in the UK on ebay.

I will adopt Rasputin's suggestion of cleaning out the hole with carb cleaner and see if I can spot the leak. But whether I find the leak or not, there is little to lose if I put some Yamabond on the bolt thread and refit everything. It it works, this will save a heck of a lot of work. And if not, time to think again.
 
I think I might try coating the inside and bottom of the hole rather than just putting it on the screw. I don't think I'd let it set up for a day either. It might harden up too much by then and make putting the screw in difficult. I think I'd apply it, let it set maybe 10 or 15 minutes, then install the screw.
 
Electrical contact cleaner dries even faster and “drier” too Lol
:D
Yamabond is fantastic in places like the corners where the head and rocker cover intersect on those big bearing journals holes .
 
I think I might try coating the inside and bottom of the hole rather than just putting it on the screw. I don't think I'd let it set up for a day either. It might harden up too much by then and make putting the screw in difficult. I think I'd apply it, let it set maybe 10 or 15 minutes, then install the screw.

yup - I like 5T solution. The key point is that there is little no oil pressure behind these screws and there isn’t really even that much oil up there. Soooo?..getting a leak stopped shouldn’t really be that hard IMO.

Pete
(still dozing in Deutschland)
 
Look what came in the post today:

PICT2002.JPG
 
I can certainly confirm that Yamaha made the headlight bucket on the early-mid Standard models too frickin' small. Its dumb - and totally unnecessary as there is several inches of unoccupied real estate behind the bucket and ahead of the frame steering head tube which could have been used for a slightly more generously sized bucket.

Anyhow, it is (at least for me) a significant battle to get all the danged wiring stuffed in there AND get the headlight back on AND not have any of the wiring connectors come adrift in the process.

Interested to know if anyone has replaced the headlamp shell (aka bucket or body) with a deeper version so's all that wiring will actually fit inside?

headlamp.jpg


Have had a scout about on the forum and failed to find anything relevant. Maybe should look at some of the British-style headlamp shells advertised on ebay but as soon as you step away from original you invariably open a can of worms and nothing fits?

So if someone has done it before . . .
 
It all goes in, you just have to be orderly. Basically arrange a circular nest of wires and connectors with a center hole for the back of the headlight bulb and it's connector. I have everything PLUS the power convertor for an LED bulb in two of my XS650 headlight buckets....
 
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I like Yamabond. And do not consider it to be gummy. Yamabond actually sets up fairly hard. More so than silicone and such. Did you find Grey Yamabond anywhere inside your engine seams ? I’ve used it in the past on case seams where gaskets are in corners and such. I may seem to be simple but it’s true, somehow my bikes do not leak.
Yamabond has been in my tool box always for many many years.

absolutely agree 100% I have had no leaks on my engine rebuild and used Threebond (Yamabond) throughout

Folk seem to have a lot of angst about how difficult it is to remove from gasket surfaces when rebuilding . I don't know about anybody else but when I build an engine I expect it to give 20+years and many thousands of miles of service before requiring stripping again so its not really as bigger issue as some folk suggest imho
 
yup - I like 5T solution. The key point is that there is little no oil pressure behind these screws and there isn’t really even that much oil up there. Soooo?..getting a leak stopped shouldn’t really be that hard IMO.

Pete
(still dozing in Deutschland)
Look what came in the post today:

View attachment 153127

Very nice!

I see yours has closed axle mounts whereas mine has open versions, curious that they produced different versions for such a relatively brief production run.
 
absolutely agree 100% I have had no leaks on my engine rebuild and used Threebond (Yamabond) throughout

Folk seem to have a lot of angst about how difficult it is to remove from gasket surfaces when rebuilding . I don't know about anybody else but when I build an engine I expect it to give 20+years and many thousands of miles of service before requiring stripping again so its not really as bigger issue as some folk suggest imho
Look closer, his is open ended too, it just has the bolt-on end caps in place.

My mistake, I didn’t look close enough!
 
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