Found in barn, XS650E

What do you think the odds are that the engine was previously damaged, repaired and no one ever bothered to clean the side filter?
I'd almost be tempted to put it together and run it. see what kinda noise it makes and look at the screens again after an hour or two of running.
Perhaps I'll do that. It's not like it's a Brough Superior. I have another engine, though it's an '81.

I thought the shorted rotor would be reason enough to park it. It wasn't going far that way.
 
What Jim said about not cleaning the side filter makes sense. Any place to place an abundance of extra magnets to grab on to things that might still get through the filters?
 
The gaskets I removed appear to be OEM. I can't be positive, but they look it. The bolts I removed have perfectly clean threads, especially the six sump bolts. I would expect those to be dirty. Also, all seemed to have equal torque on them. The PO was a cop, not a mechanic. (Not that there's anything wrong with that.)
 
I just noticed the OE genuine Yamaha sump screen is NLA. Which way do you go, assuming I don't wish to make a repair at this time? I'm probably asking what's already answered.
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Did you fellows already critique this?
I bought one but yet to use it.........
 
What do you think the odds are that the engine was previously damaged, repaired and no one ever bothered to clean the side filter?
I'd almost be tempted to put it together and run it. see what kinda noise it makes and look at the screens again after an hour or two of running.

It's a good hypothesis. Could be the person who repaired the damage which led to all those metal pieces wasn't aware of the side filter?
 
What do you think the odds are that the engine was previously damaged, repaired and no one ever bothered to clean the side filter?
I'd almost be tempted to put it together and run it. see what kinda noise it makes and look at the screens again after an hour or two of running.
One of my favorite games XSeology, Sifting through the debris, creating a theory about what the PO did (didn't do) to create such a fine mess. It can be a useful alert to other issues that may need looking into.
In this case removing the oil feed pipe at the cylinder base or at lease cracking a banjo loose from the head to check for oil flow may be wise. Peeking in valve cover at a cam lobes can provide clues as to engine health, history of oil changes. Seems like you can get a glimpse of the RH crank ball bearing race with the clutch cover off?
 
I adjusted the cam chain, or at least, I intended to. The pin is flush. It does not move in and out as I rotate the engine. So, does that mean the chain is new, or the adjuster is frozen?

I adjusted the valves. Only a very small adjustment on the left side. The right side was on spec. .004 inlet and .006 outlet.

This is not what I expected.
 
:agree:

I adjusted the cam chain, or at least, I intended to. The pin is flush. It does not move in and out as I rotate the engine. So, does that mean the chain is new, or the adjuster is frozen?

I adjusted the valves. Only a very small adjustment on the left side. The right side was on spec. .004 inlet and .006 outlet.

This is not what I expected.
Back off the cam chain adjuster, does the pin wiggle now? A slight wiggle is more important than the exact location vs. flush. It will be fine if a bit proud and flush when it moves in.
Good on the valves, wise to recheck after a few hundred miles of running.
 
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Yep, bobweights look better than most, but let your continuity tester tell you if the advance interval is good.
Yes, this is all new XS650 territory for me. All of my previous experience is on the electronic ignition models. I'm going to have to take the advance apart and lube it. I reckon I'll figure it out.
 
Don't forget to lube up the advance rod too, that's very important. Your advance doesn't look bad or worn much. To judge wear, you can observe how the slash marks on the little disc and backing plate align. The better they do, the less wear you have.
 
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