New here, where does this go?

RadMax

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Hey, new guy here! I’m Max, I’ve always wanted an XS, and well, a couple weeks ago, I finally got one! 1980 XS650 barn find with a literal truckload of spares!

So I was rebuilding my carbs, and I found a stray light green wire by my backbone... My headlight is out, and I looked it up, LG should be headlight-related... Any idea as to what general area it plugs into? It’d be cool to patch this up before I re-install my carbs, thanks!
 
There is a single light blue wire coming out of the harness along that backbone tube where it runs down towards the engine. Maybe the wire you found is just faded? That light blue wire runs to the neutral switch on top of the crankcase behind the cylinders.
 
When you say your headlight is out, if you mean it doesn't come on with the key, that's normal. There's a headlight safety relay that doesn't turn the headlight on until the engine starts.
 
Here's the "sky blue" wire that 5twins mentioned, going to the neutral switch.
XS1_NeutralWire.jpg

This wire has been known to take on different blue/green colors due to heat and age...
 
Weird. Thanks, I see it now! It looks light green, like a “mint green”, but it could just be dirty? I’ll check if my light comes on once I fire it up, but I’ve got some parts coming from Mike’s XS. Other lights still work, so I found it odd. I have a spare headlight (spares of almost everything), and it didn’t come on either.
 
Do you have a wire now connected to the neutral switch?
Again, headlight does not come on until engine starts.
 
If I can get away with asking two more questions: I bought an Emgo superbike bar (it’s gonna be a café build), and noticed the stock front master cylinder reservoir is somewhat sloped for the big stock cruiser-style bars... Should it still work, or do guys with aftermarket bars typically buy an aftermarket reservoir (if so, which)? Also, how do you disconnect the front brake light switch?
 
If I can get away with asking two more questions: I bought an Emgo superbike bar (it’s gonna be a café build), and noticed the stock front master cylinder reservoir is somewhat sloped for the big stock cruiser-style bars... Should it still work, or do guys with aftermarket bars typically buy an aftermarket reservoir (if so, which)? Also, how do you disconnect the front brake light switch?
It will work. But....it really isn't that great a unit. Contact Michael "Mercury" Morse at 650Central.com. He'll hook you up with something perfect. Or, check his other site. VintageBrake.com He's got a chart on there to help you pick.
 
Thanks, I’ll try that! And I’m not looking for like modern-day performance - just a quick, fun “touge“ bike!
 
Haha! Thanks! You guys seem like a pretty friendly and helpful group! I’m 26 and I’ve been wrenching my whole life. Not gonna lie, I prefer the old stuff. The new stuff is cool, don’t get me wrong, but like my dad always says:

- Fuel
- Compression
- Spark

It sure beats chasing electrical gremlins all day!
 
If you replace your M/C, get one with a smaller bore size. Something in an 11 to 12 mm bore. This will greatly increase your brakes feel and stopping power.
There are M/C's used on other models of Yamaha. that have these smaller bore sizes. They use the same style levers and brake light switches.
There is a thread on here about these M/Cs somewhere. A bit of searching will find them.
Leo
 
Thanks! It came with tons of spares, so I got some cool front and rear slotted rotors that actually don’t look bad! It’s a single-disc setup up front, and I’ve considered converting it to twin-disc, but that’s down the road. It’s a Special, so it has the 7-spoke wheels rather than laced rims, and I’m not even sure they’ll work for twin-discs anyway? What I REALLY want is some nice braided lines!
 
So I rebuilt my carbs - haven’t started it yet, still waiting for parts - and I’ve noticed there’s a bit of “play” in the fuel Tee that connects the fuel line to the carbs. Should I be worried? Will it still seal, is that normal?

You know that piece of angle that holds the carbs together? Those Phillips bolts are ready to strip, so I’m gonna have to drill them out (and my drill is back at my old shop), so I haven’t been able to get my carbs apart. I’m wondering if I need to invest in a new Tee? There’s a rather-expensive billet Tee on MikesXS, but if it works better, why not? I just don’t want fuel puking out of my carbs for a number of reasons...

And don’t worry, I made sure it ran before I bought it. It runs, just not great, clearly a carb problem. The carbs I’m installing weren’t the ones that were on the bike, they’re a rather-nice set of stock carbs I rebuilt.
 
Yes, if that fuel "T" is as loose as you say, it's probably going to leak. When I assemble a set of these, with the top and bottom brackets installed loosely, I clamp the carbs together so the "T" is tight, then tighten the mounting screws in the brackets (clamp still in place). You want the "T" tight enough so you can barely rotate it by hand .....

e70CRqV.jpg


pqLxyDR.jpg
 
Before drilling try a small set of vise grips. I don't normally recommend vise grips for things but sometimes they work.
Gripping the screw head with the vise grips gives you a lot of leverage on those bolts.
Leo
 
Yes, if that fuel "T" is as loose as you say, it's probably going to leak. When I assemble a set of these, with the top and bottom brackets installed loosely, I clamp the carbs together so the "T" is tight, then tighten the mounting screws in the brackets (clamp still in place). You want the "T" tight enough so you can barely rotate it by hand .....

5Twins! This pig found an acorn! The furniture clamps will work great on the four carbs on the Honda! 3 cross-overs! This time I'm ahead of the game!
Thanks much!
Thu
 
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