Removing Tack cable on case?

FatChance

XS650 Enthusiast
Messages
44
Reaction score
55
Points
18
Location
Wi
I hope this is a easy fix, probably not. I'm trying to remove the tack cable from the right cover, the collar just spins. Is there a trick to this, if I pull the case can I sort this from the inside or do I need to remove the tack cable to remove the right cover?
 
The sleeve that the tach cable screws into shouldn't spin. It has a hole in it's side and should be "pinned" in place by the tip of the special retaining bolt (#5 below) .....

wmr3Gdb.jpg


FFZ2Lf1.jpg


So, either yours wasn't mounted correctly (end of special bolt not in sleeve hole), the end of the special bolt has worn or sheared off, or someone just stuck a normal bolt in there without the turned down tip it needs.
 
The sleeve that the tach cable screws into shouldn't spin. It has a hole in it's side and should be "pinned" in place by the tip of the special retaining bolt (#5 below) .....

wmr3Gdb.jpg


FFZ2Lf1.jpg


So, either yours wasn't mounted correctly (end of special bolt not in sleeve hole), the end of the special bolt has worn or sheared off, or someone just stuck a normal bolt in there without the turned down tip it needs.

My bad, I did back out the special bolt, should have said that. Here is a pic of what I have.


Does this look like stock cable, not sure that it is? From the diagram it looks like I can take the cover off with the special nut removed and then figure it out?
 

Attachments

  • 9A224267-F4DC-4819-ADF4-DE5080FDA395.jpeg
    9A224267-F4DC-4819-ADF4-DE5080FDA395.jpeg
    120 KB · Views: 116
Carefully check out 5t's parts diagram. That tach drive typically leaks, the seal is shot, the threaded sleeve that holds it can be an SOB to get out, and the shaft has a groove worn in it from dirt grinding away in there. Fun stuff LOL.
 
I only ever had to just screw it off. Did you try that b4 loosening the bolt? Maybe try to tighten the bolt back and then unscrew cable. It looks like the bolt goes in a certain spot of the shaft. You can probably feel when it's right.
 
I only ever had to just screw it off. Did you try that b4 loosening the bolt? Maybe try to tighten the bolt back and then unscrew cable. It looks like the bolt goes in a certain spot of the shaft. You can probably feel when it's right.

I took the cover off and it looks like the collar (part #4 above) is seized to the housing (part #1). With the bolt removed I can see in the hole while slowly spinning the housing and there is no hole or flat spot on the housing for the tip of the bolt to fit in or rest on. I can see the marks where the bolt was just tightened to the housing.

How hard is it to find that housing, been searching a while with no luck? If it is available someplace I can be more aggressive with separating the collar from the housing.
 
Maybe your housing isn't seated into the cover at the proper depth and that's why you can't see the hole for the special bolt? No matter, the housing should pull right out of the cover once that special bolt is removed. Then you can get a look all over it for the bolt hole. Unfortunately, you can't buy the threaded part, housing, or the special bolt new anymore. Scrounging used ones may be your only option. Maybe gggGary can help you out with that. Or then of course, there's always eBay.
 
I made a special tool just to get the threaded collar out of that sleeve. It's just kind of a screwdriver bit with a socket drive custom fit to the slot with a round collar to keep it centered. Could I find it again? mebbie.
 
I made a special tool just to get the threaded collar out of that sleeve. It's just kind of a screwdriver bit with a socket drive custom fit to the slot with a round collar to keep it centered. Could I find it again? mebbie.
Mine apparently is not stock, I don't have those slots on the collar. Also could not find the hole however, like @5twins said, it might be there but the housing is not seated at the prober depth to see it. I will be looking at it again tomorrow, I also need to get the kick started shaft seated back in there. I knew not to let that happen and I did it anyway. Found a video how to reset that in another thread, I think I can get that.

I thinking more and more I should get a play motor.
 
Pretty high odds it's stock parts. (keep digging) LOL Some pics of the parts and one way to get that collar out. Even once the collar is out that seal is HAMMERED in there.
tach bolt drill 008.JPG
tach bolt drill 002.JPG
tach bolt drill 005.JPG
tach bolt drill 010.JPG
tach bolt drill 015.JPG
tach bolt drill 004.JPG
 

Attachments

  • tach bolt drill 006.JPG
    tach bolt drill 006.JPG
    131.9 KB · Views: 77
Last edited:
If the video you found for installing the kicker is the one where the guy grabs the splined shaft with pliers, don't do that, it's a terrible practice. You'll find all sorts of advice and videos on this particular install. Many involve zip ties attached to the return spring so you can pull it around and hook it onto the case. It's all bullshit, hack job fixes that needn't be done. Just follow the instructions given in the FACTORY shop manual and the shaft slips right in. I don't know why people struggle so much with this and why they come up with the crazy methods they do. None of it is necessary and you risk damaging the parts with some of them.
 

Damn, now I have a home work assignment. They were helpful, the first I had already read.

Looking on e-bay I found the parts out there, pricey but, that gave me the confidence to go at it with vice grips and channel locks. Everything came apart as it should. I couldn't find the hole for the bolt because it was full of metal fillings. Looks like that o-ring could be replaced.

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • Tack.jpg
    Tack.jpg
    197.3 KB · Views: 111
Back
Top