I don't think so. A tube would prolly minimize it, but you'd still get a little movement.
When the factory welds are ground down, can this weaken the swingarm in any way?
Or are you only grinding added welds you appled?
I just cut off my caliper Mount lugs on mine the other day. I used a saws-all or reciprocating saw as some call it. Then a flap wheel on my grinder. Then I hit it with a flat file to even out the high spots. Then finish with sand paper. The scratches all came out nice. I still need to hit with a finer grit before polishing but am very happy with the results.
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Just a note of caution... our XS's can get a bit dodgy without a fork brace of some sort.
I’m trying to adopt the mantra “function over fom” I want my bike to look beautiful but not sacrifice performance to achieve that,
I believe it was just 220. It’s all I had on hand. I’ll get some finer grit to do the wet sanding with. I’ve got the cheap Harbor Freight polishing kit for my drill. That and some Blue Magic polish compound should do the trick.Sounds like solid advise Willis, what grit of sandpaper did you use, did you wet sand and then work your way onto finer grits???
Daniel.
After I cut off my lugs, i taped up the fork tube heavily so durung the process of removing tbe excess material, the grinding surface couldnt run astray, they I removed layers of tape to take it down further and further.
I used a small air die grinder with different grades of Rolo-loc wheels do get the tube down to a polishable surface, then took it to my polisher. I also did my best to remove much of the "casting bumps" around the remainimg lugs and lower nooks and crannies.
Jim, I had the bracing on my TX swingarm closed in and prettied up. Did this with the swingarm braced up with 3/4" in threaded rod with nuts holding the width in place, acting like axle while heat was applied.I don't think so. A tube would prolly minimize it, but you'd still get a little movement.
It's just the nature of welding. As the metal heats up on the inside of the swingarm, it will spread open from expansion of the metal. If it's contained in a jig, it'll still induce the stress trying to expand it. Once the metal reaches the molten state, all stress goes away. You can't have expansion stress in molten metal. After welding, the metal cools until it solidifies into solid metal again. Now, as it cools further, the stress is reversed as the metal shrinks from cooling... pulling the tubes inward. Being jigged will minimize movement, but the stress from shrinkage is there nonetheless. As soon as the jig is removed, the tubes will spring inward. It actually gets pretty complicated. All that movement is factored in during the manufacturing/design phase. After that, unless you're an metallurgist, it's a crapshoot.How could this thing reduce rear width after the jig was removed?
I don't really remember. From experience I knew it would shrink, so I measured it before welding. After that, I just pushed it out a little, released pressure and measured. Rinsed and repeated 'till I got it back to the correct dimension.Thanks, so how far beyond spec did u push with your bottle jack to get it to be "workable"?
Yes, it's exactly the same as it was before welding.And is your setup now Ok for wheel on/off repairs or chain adjustments?
Yes, that's why I pointed out you need to apply the force on the tubes. Flat plates deform much easier than tubes. All you're doing is deforming the plates (that thankfully, spring back). You would permanently deform the plates before the tubes will give up a mm. You have to apply the force on the tubes themselves.although u had stated u went up higher. on the actual tubes, so maybe thats the difference? I wouldn't think it would know the difference, stretching is streching, or is it?
It all makes sense....now.Yes, that's why I pointed out you need to apply the force on the tubes. Flat plates deform much easier than tubes. All you're doing is deforming the plates (that thankfully, spring back). You would permanently deform the plates before the tubes will give up a mm. You have to apply the force on the tubes themselves.
Well Jim, I have tried and tried to spread the tubes with a jack, and do it but once the jack removed the tubes go back.Yes, that's why I pointed out you need to apply the force on the tubes. Flat plates deform much easier than tubes. All you're doing is deforming the plates (that thankfully, spring back). You would permanently deform the plates before the tubes will give up a mm. You have to apply the force on the tubes themselves.