Ywain

Looks like expediency will win, found a pair of progressive shocks in the bins, 12 1/2" eye to eye and the lower eye is offset which solves the old Radian swingarm shocks not parallel when mounted on the XS650 issue. One eye is a bit tweaked but should be easy to "re-align" Looks like I will need to just skiv about 1/4" off the sprocket carrier to line up the front and rear sprockets. Will need to have a custom sprocket made cuz None of the Zookies with this pattern used below a 39 tooth:( and I need to be down in the 31-32 tooth range, The 130/70/17 has a 24" OD vs. about 26" for a 110/90/18 or 25" for 130/90/16 Good news is the chain will still clear the carrier even at 31 tooth.:thumbsup:
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Gary have you looked at this company for sprockets?
https://shop.pbisprockets.com/main.sc;jsessionid=933FEC96DA9379B5F98CF0493080CE08.p3plqscsfapp002
 
Are these steel or aluminum sprockets? If aluminum what's the longevity and how do you determine how many teeth can be cut. I'll be using a early
Fz 18" mag,I don't have one on hand as I got rid of all my build up years ago. One more question on the swing arms what's the clearance of the inner pivot tube to outer edge of S/A?
Scored a real nice 07 R6 mono shock with all hardware for 48.00 the other day,thought of going D/S with the FZ/A but taking this R6 route was much cheaper, plus the R6 shock gives
4 adjustments.
 
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Hey Jack. Aluminum sprocket, I put 5,000 on one on madness, still good for a couple thou more. Steel would be nice. Yes you really gotta watch bolt circles/clearance,that small XS sprocket can be a serious gotcha on rear wheel choices. Why I picked the GS rear wheel, a 4" rim it takes tires around the max for tire/chain clearance without getting into offsets, a 31 tooth sprocket still lets the chain clear the hub. Led myself down a rosy path, didn't notice that swingarm and adjusters were already bored to 20mm, the GS rear wheel has a 17mm axle, my good luck, I had another radian arm and adjusters that were still 17mm, it's installed now. Tire and sprocket alignment is looking good, just took about .1" off the LH spacer. may need to skiv the sprocket bolt length, change nuts for swing arm clearance.
the radian swingarm is about 1/4" taller at the pivot.
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Gary, heres an image of your arm,the bottom arrows is the inner SA tube and top arrow is the SA flange. What's clearance that the swing has to have to move freely when the S/A bolt is tightened? I took to much off my Fz when cutting and have to much free play,the inner tube needs to be shortened and need an .000 to go by for reference.
I noticed you setting up the YZF forks you have them almost fully extended up in the triple tree, aren't those forks longer than the XS?
XS arm.jpg
 
i'll check that differential manana.
I ordered some aluminum bar to make angled risers for the fat bars so I can move the tubes around and find what works.As Pete above said this bike's gonna be ALL gggGary, Stay tuned.
 
Gary, heres an image of your arm,the bottom arrows is the inner SA tube and top arrow is the SA flange. What's clearance that the swing has to have to move freely when the S/A bolt is tightened?
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The radian set up is kinda interesting.
Uses needle bearings and just steel on steel for thrust.
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The shaft is .175" proud of the swing arm end with the other end flush, each cap has a .086" thrust spacer, so .003" end clearance. IIRC that's about the same as the XS650 spec.
You can see by the wear and measuring bears out, that swing arm end is not true.
Thanks for making me look, one swing arm I have was missing the thrust spacers in the caps. :cautious:
 
Gary on those YZF upper trees, are they solid for the riser you bolted on? Just curious cuz I know there are uppers with risers but know doubt would be
expensive. I've found some YZF forks just debating my options here.
 
They are hollow underneath, prolly will weld in some aluminum where I drilled for the riser bolt to improve strength there. The angled risers will prolly give me room to use two bolts each, which might be strong enough. Also need to beef up the front edge where I removed the iggy switch. Forks were mostly plug and play, ground out weld shortened stem a bit. Might have to watch tank//triple/fork tube clearance at the steering locks.

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That looks good and see where welding a couple aluminum strips would help. Something else occurred to me,before installing a new stem bearing
would using a aluminum brazing rod filling in those tree cavities be a good idea also? I hope you'll post a frontal view of your little hot rod when it's completed
 
Why do my projects drag on forever?
needed to weld a bracket on the swing arm for the disk brake torque arm.
needed to finally get that TIG welder set up (been sitting in shed, untouched, for a year)
needed to make a cart for TIG to sit on.
needed to bring in MIG to weld TIG cart cuz I ain't working in the shed at 10F
while the MIG was going by, needed to weld a new damper handle on basement wood stove.
needed to drill out passages in the stove for a larger rod cuz the old one was too scrawny.
needed to take apart stove to drill.
got MIG in garage, working on TIG cart, second weld it runs out of gas.
Take cylinder off MIG cart.
Mess around redoing stinger connection cuz wire feed has been glitchy
That MIG is looking REALLY shabby it's 30 years old... As long as the cylinder is off....
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And THAT"s why my projects take so long. LOL
 
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