Crankshaft wobble - freshly rebuilt engine

Ya that is definitely expensive but not entirely surprising.

My mechanic brother-in-law has worked with Ontario Crank Services in Orillia, which is about the same distance from me as Wolfe Worx. Either way I'll be taking the crank to one of these two shops and will be expecting an expensive repair so time to work on plan B, which would be a replacement crank.

I did have quite a bit of metal shavings in the oil and wonder if it was the shavings that killed the bearing, or if it was the strain on the engine caused by trying to start it with the camshaft flipped 180 degrees on the first reassembly. I hear strain on the engine can cause the inner bearings to fail so I can imagine this might have contributed to the failure.
 
Ya that is definitely expensive but not entirely surprising.

My mechanic brother-in-law has worked with Ontario Crank Services in Orillia, which is about the same distance from me as Wolfe Worx. Either way I'll be taking the crank to one of these two shops and will be expecting an expensive repair so time to work on plan B, which would be a replacement crank.

I did have quite a bit of metal shavings in the oil and wonder if it was the shavings that killed the bearing, or if it was the strain on the engine caused by trying to start it with the camshaft flipped 180 degrees on the first reassembly. I hear strain on the engine can cause the inner bearings to fail so I can imagine this might have contributed to the failure.
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Let me look tomorrow, i may have a good crank, if i do and the bearings and rods are good, I will let you know, Gary
 
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Let me look tomorrow, i may have a good crank, if i do and the bearings and rods are good, I will let you know, Gary
I looked at 4 of them today, rods were good on one but the 2 inner bearings were shot. Not sure how big of a hurry, probably cold in Canada, i have a couple more motors to open up in next week of 2, If you want to email me at gary@hoosracing.com i will let you know. Also i was thinking $100 plus shipping. Gary
 
I looked at 4 of them today, rods were good on one but the 2 inner bearings were shot. Not sure how big of a hurry, probably cold in Canada, i have a couple more motors to open up in next week of 2, If you want to email me at gary@hoosracing.com i will let you know. Also i was thinking $100 plus shipping. Gary

Thank you for that Gary. You are right the weather here isn’t great so I have a few months to get everything sorted and put back together.

The crank shop I’m using is shut down for the holidays so I’ll be taking mine there in early January when they reopen. If it has more than one bad bearing I’ll likely take you up on your offer. Will email you when I figure out my next steps. Thanks again everyone. Merry Christmas!
 
Here is how I learned to take a crankshaft apart, Roger Johnson who taught me has been doing these since 1972, he told me never go over 10 ton, Probably why he still has the same press all these years. It pays to have a good press so you can press everything straight.The only difference in his press and mine is , his floor model and my is table top. Making sure pin are at 90 degree with flywheels is very important as well as the press ram . Step 1 and 2 should always be followed. And only press pin out of one flywheel at a time never push through both. I did not add removing bearings etc, Hope this helps someone.
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Here is how I learned to take a crankshaft apart, Roger Johnson who taught me has been doing these since 1972, he told me never go over 10 ton, Probably why he still has the same press all these years. It pays to have a good press so you can press everything straight.The only difference in his press and mine is , his floor model and my is table top. Making sure pin are at 90 degree with flywheels is very important as well as the press ram . Step 1 and 2 should always be followed. And only press pin out of one flywheel at a time never push through both. I did not add removing bearings etc, Hope this helps someone.View attachment 158936 View attachment 158937 View attachment 158938 View attachment 158939 View attachment 158940
That's the same OTC press we had at the shop where I worked, off-road equipment not Yamaha! Our's was a bench model that the shop's welder made a floor stand for out of six inch pipe and some steel plate.
 
Well this Covid situation has given me time to get the engine back together.

Big thank you to everyone here for your input and support. Also huge thank you to the experts for all of their input through the years that I could search on this forum.

Still waiting for a drive chain and clutch cable before I can take it for a rip but I’m pretty happy!!!

 
Out of curiosity, how much did this all cost?

Oh man I’ve lost track but if I were guessing:

-$4000
-2 years
-200 hours
-12 favours from close skilled friends (welders, mechanics and extra hands for engine lifting), still to be repaid
-My sanity

But in all honesty I’m still loving it and can’t wait to start riding again. It’s been a frustrating build but it’s unbelievable what I’ve learned during the process.

Once again, I can’t say thank you enough to people like 5Twins, gggGary, Xsleo, Mailman, Jim, Grizld1, MaxPete, Hooser ...and many many more.

thx gentlemen.
 
Well this Covid situation has given me time to get the engine back together.

Big thank you to everyone here for your input and support. Also huge thank you to the experts for all of their input through the years that I could search on this forum.

Still waiting for a drive chain and clutch cable before I can take it for a rip but I’m pretty happy!!!

Sound good Steve, well done!
 
AHHHHHHHHHHHHH! Man just when you think its over :)

Current issues:

1) I believe the clutch is dragging and I'll have to figure that out. When I put it in gear there is a small lurch forward. For the clutch, I have installed new EBC clutch springs, Mikes/XS650direct allen clutch screw head kit, new motion pro cable. Still using old friction discs as they were still within spec.

2) While riding there was a steady gas leak out the overflow on the carbs (yikes). Took apart the carbs and cleaned the float needles. Float height was already set to 24mm. There is a small drip out the overflow while sitting so I've ordered new Yamaha float needles from boats.net, hopefully will be here soon enough. Also there is a very slow drip out of the petcocks so I have ordered two new rubber valves - 16G-24523-00-00. I had already flipped them over once which greatly improved the leak situation but I think new ones are probably in order.

3) The bike has cam chain tensioner type D which doesn't have the lock nut. I set the chain tension while the bike is running and had set it to 1-2mm movement. I left the bike running and when I put the nut back on the tensioner and could hear the motor idle change as I tightened it, indicating that cam chain tension had increased. I've ordered a model E tensioner but it will probably be a month before it arrives so I'm trying to figure out how to best set it with the current hardware for now. I'm thinking either blue loctite to hold the damper in place while the crown nut is tightened (allowing the loctite to dry before adding crown nut of course), or potentially setting the tension, turning off the bike, removing the whole assembly including tensioner holder, then being able to make sure the damper doesnt turn when I add the crown nut.

4) Next I drained the oil and found a mess in the filters. Keep in mind this is from running the bike for about 2 hours with new oil and new filters. I'm hoping its clutch material that I scraped out of the filter but this has me a bit worried. I'm wondering if its either a result of the clutch issue or cam chain tension issue, but I'm not excited to find this. Pictures attached........

Thanks for reading everyone.

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