Crabby's Build

Crabby. What kind of build are you going for? Using the extra frame makes sense since you have the title for it but you build options will be limited because of the detabbing. Looks like it was “cleaned up” thoroughly including the removal of the centre stand. A restoration won’t be possible unless you weld on a lot of new tabs and brackets.
 
Here's what you need (and already have) for the drum brake.

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Just clean up this swingarm and use it.

Thanks Jim this is super helpful! unfortunately I can't use this swingarm as the fender and sissybar have already been attached to the other swingarm.
Regardless your diagram on my photo shows me exactly what I need to use. Thanks!
 
Crabby. What kind of build are you going for? Using the extra frame makes sense since you have the title for it but you build options will be limited because of the detabbing. Looks like it was “cleaned up” thoroughly including the removal of the centre stand. A restoration won’t be possible unless you weld on a lot of new tabs and brackets.
Hey peterg, yes you're right but it's ok as I'm planning to make a bobber/chopper style of XS650. I'm guessing that most people on the site are doing exact restorations? Because i had purchased an "in progress" rolling chassis I figured this was the best type of build to start with. I'm already searching for another XS for a straight restoration but one bike at a time. :)
 
Crabby,
You will find bikes on this site that are nut-and-bolt museum quality restorations. Then, there's the rest of us. As a wise man once said "...it's only original once." You've got your restorations (the nut-and-bolt jobs), survivors (all original, repaired/maintained to functionality), resto-mods (they look stock, but have aftermarket upgrades for performance and reliability, and can easily be put back to original). Then there's the customs, where you start adding/deleting things, not necessarily easy to go back to stock (mild). And radicals. That's where you have your chops and bobs. Sawzalls and angle grinders can be the scalpels of surgeons, or the cleavers of butchers. Love 'em or hate 'em, they're out there. And often times, someone's failed "project" can be had for a pittance. It's unfortunate, but people lose interest, or find their "dream bike" costs more than they're willing to spend, to see it through. You have the advantage of enough spares to take your build in many different directions. But at the heart of it all, is that wonderful Xs650 motor. It's a blank canvas, and you are the artist. Keep doing what you're doing, and keep us updated! (Did I mention we're nosy? :wink2:)
 
Crabby,
You will find bikes on this site that are nut-and-bolt museum quality restorations. Then, there's the rest of us. As a wise man once said "...it's only original once." You've got your restorations (the nut-and-bolt jobs), survivors (all original, repaired/maintained to functionality), resto-mods (they look stock, but have aftermarket upgrades for performance and reliability, and can easily be put back to original). Then there's the customs, where you start adding/deleting things, not necessarily easy to go back to stock (mild). And radicals. That's where you have your chops and bobs. Sawzalls and angle grinders can be the scalpels of surgeons, or the cleavers of butchers. Love 'em or hate 'em, they're out there. And often times, someone's failed "project" can be had for a pittance. It's unfortunate, but people lose interest, or find their "dream bike" costs more than they're willing to spend, to see it through. You have the advantage of enough spares to take your build in many different directions. But at the heart of it all, is that wonderful Xs650 motor. It's a blank canvas, and you are the artist. Keep doing what you're doing, and keep us updated! (Did I mention we're nosy? :wink2:)
Thanks 59Tebo, I appreciate the insights and will be sure to post everything I do!
 
Drum brake swingarms can be found pretty easily. So many XS's have been hardtailed that You should be able to track one down.
This 81ish lives on the floor under my tool box waiting for a local need such as yours. Shipping far can be a deal breaker.
Your 77 swingarm had the rear axle back slide out slots because of the very long 77 mufflers. On a custom build the most common mufflers are far shorter so the rear axle slide out function is not necessary to keep.
Watching your build.:cool:
-R
 

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Drum brake swingarms can be found pretty easily. So many XS's have been hardtailed that You should be able to track one down.
This 81ish lives on the floor under my tool box waiting for a local need such as yours. Shipping far can be a deal breaker.
Your 77 swingarm had the rear axle back slide out slots because of the very long 77 mufflers. On a custom build the most common mufflers are far shorter so the rear axle slide out function is not necessary to keep.
Watching your build.:cool:
-R
Thanks for the offer of the swing arm but I’m stuck with the one I have as the fender and sissy at have been welded on.
 
it looks like maybe the (dreaded) P.O. spray-painted the lower case to "clean it up". Looks like all the seals and the stator cover were painted.
Yes so it appears that my "rebuilt" engine has been spray painted on several surfaces and has rust inside. Does all this paint inside the crankcase covers now need to be removed? Is this cam unusable or can the rust be removed? My plan was to build this bike with a rebuilt engine ready to drop in. This may now be more than I can pull off.
I have the engine from the parts bike can the cams be swapped?
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Crabby, there are folk here with a lot more experience of XS650s than me but I would say that whether you can use the engine with rust on the cam, valve gear etc depends on how severe it is.

The council of perfection would probably be to do an engine rebuild and either clean or replace the rusty parts. But that's a lot of expense and effort which you can avoid if it's only light. Rust often looks worse than it really is. Try wiping areas you can reach with an oily rag and assess whether its just light surface rust or had really eaten into the metal.

If it's only surface rust, it will soon wear off when you start running the engine. It will then be in the engine oil but you should change the oil at a low mileage anyway as a precaution with an engine you don't know very well. However, if rust is so bad it has worn pits in cam's hardened faces then need to think a bit more. I cannot see how severe it is from the photos above.
 
I agree with Raymondo, Crabby. You've got plenty of time before the next riding season. And no clue as to what the (dreaded) P.O. might have done to the motor, besides the spray job. :yikes: Gasket and seal sets aren't all that expensive (even in Canadian $$), so it might be a good idea to take it apart, clean every part (painted or not), check all the important dimensions (bore, pistons, ring gap, valves, etc.), and put it back together with new gaskets and seals. The clutch plates (steels) can be cleaned up using fine emery on a sheet of glass (an absolutely flat surface). You may find this motor may not be that far gone, and you'll have the peace of mind that A) nothing else is missing, B) everything is as "right" as it's gonna get, and C) you'll have the satisfaction (and education) of having totally gone through every part of the motor. I (and many others) await your next report. (I might have mentioned we're nosy! :laugh: )
 
When it comes to updating my build thread do I simply add on to this original thread?
Yes, just keep everything in this thread... easier to follow and reference back to that way. Has anyone said we like pics yet... ;)
 
I'm going to go for it.
Excellent! Great mindset! But, before you dive in, you haven't mentioned whether or not you have a manual(s). Yamaha, Chilton's, or Clymer's (or all of the above) are essential. They break the engine down to sub-assemblies with exploded views. Read. Study. Repeat. The more you know, the more you know. Ya know? :doh: These engines are really only slightly more complicated than a lawn mower engine. You don't have to be a rocket scientist (we know those people :laugh: ).
 
But, before you dive in, you haven't mentioned whether or not you have a manual(s). Yamaha, Chilton's, or Clymer's (or all of the above) are essential.
Yes I have a pdf of the Yamaha manual and i've purchased the Clymers. Also going to be watching alot YouTube videos. Thanks!
 
If you have an automobile engine stand, ChopSource makes adapter plates to mount the Xs motor. They are beefy! and highly recommended. I have a motor on a Harbor Freight 1,000 lb. stand (rotates 360*) and it's rock solid. Easy access to everything, whatever you're doing. :thumbsup: You could even test-run your motor on it. (vroom, vroom)
 
If you have an automobile engine stand, ChopSource makes adapter plates to mount the Xs motor. They are beefy! and highly recommended. I have a motor on a Harbor Freight 1,000 lb. stand (rotates 360*) and it's rock solid. Easy access to everything, whatever you're doing. :thumbsup: You could even test-run your motor on it. (vroom, vroom)

Thanks 59Tebo, I had actually purchased the TC Bros stand so I would have somewhere to keep the parts bike engine so I put the engine in it last night. Thanks to YAM277 I was able to easily assemble. I'm going to attempt to take the head cover off today to inspect the cam.

I also finished modifying my blasting cabinet yesterday with upgrades from the Tacoma Company and blasted my first piece, it works amazing!
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Yes on the rotor puller. Good tool for a good price.
No on the wrist pin puller. XS's use a full floating wrist pin. It'll push out with your fingers.
Cam chain tool. Look on Ebay and/or Amazon. Mine was less than 20 bucks at one of 'em.
Spring compressor. Same as above. Much cheaper elsewhere.
Valve guide tool. If you've never done guides before, I'd strongly suggest you take the head to a machine shop if guides need replacing. Good chance they don't.
Lapping tool. Yes if you do your own. See above.
Try HF for socket. Prolly cheaper.
Yes on the clutch holder.
Last one's not needed if you get the clutch holder.
EDIT: Try HF for slide hammer.
 
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