Crabby's Build

I've been waiting for a friend to help me lift the 2nd motor into the stand. In the meantime I built a water separator for my compressor using copper pipe. My compressor is too small to media blast for long periods of time, it was creating too much condensation, seems to be working well now
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I've also blasted a few parts to try and figure out the best method. For the cylinders I think Glass Bead #70 leaves a nice clean, slightly shiny surface. I also did a rear brake plate. I first cleaned the brake plate with a 3M cleaning wheel on my bench grinder and it gave a beautiful shiny surface but it had fine scratches all over so I then Glass bead blasted 1/2 the surface which removed the scratches but also dulled the sheen. I'm going to polish it on a wheel and see which half looks best.
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I managed to squeeze the handle bar mounts together and get them through the bushings using a vise.

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Got a new tire and it fit's almost perfectly under the rear fender. I need to figure out a way to get it pushed over by a few mm? Would I put in a spacer?

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Thanks, Marc.
 
... I need to figure out a way to get it pushed over by a few mm? Would I put in a spacer?

Of paramount importance is the lateral alignment of the front and rear sprockets.
Next is ensuring clearances of wheel and drivechain to structural/suspension components.
Last is body fitments, like fender, sissybar, seat...
 
Cracked into the backup motor today. It's in much rougher shape than the first.

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Serious corrosion outside. The inside of the sleeve feels nice and smooth but it's discolored.
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Would honing them be good enough or do they need to be machined?

The rocker seats have some discoloration and what looks like some wear but they feel really smooth?
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This cam seems much better than the other, some discoloration but the surface is smooth. Can it be used?
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Thanks!
 

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FWIW, I agree with the above - that motor looks dirty on the outside but good on the inside. You can even see the original honing marks on the lower part of the bores.

I've got a guy a few miles away who does aqua blasting - that would soon clean up the corrosion on the cylinder block and head without any risk of damage. Other than that, you could soak with paraffin or Gunk and clean a lot of it off with a hose and a dish brush.
 
I've got a guy a few miles away who does aqua blasting - that would soon clean up the corrosion on the cylinder block and head without any risk of damage. Other than that, you could soak with paraffin or Gunk and clean a lot of it off with a hose and a dish brush.

Thanks Raymondo, I'm actually going to try to clean it with Glass Bead Blasting today.
 
Hi Crabby! If you're set up to do your own soda blasting, great! That oughta scrub that motor nicely. Just remember to do several hot water rinses as soon as you're done blasting. That stuff gets everywhere, and (mildly) corrosive, but dissolves pretty easily in water. Rinse, blow dry (compressed air gun) and repeat. Steel parts should get a little wipe with an oily shop rag (just a little coating) of oil to prevent surface rust, but your results should be amazing!
 
actually going to try to clean it with Glass Bead Blasting today
Be careful glass beading. I've found that perhaps due to awkwardness of holding a part inside the cabinet with bulky rubber gloves, looking through a dusty window, and working the gun, it is tempting to over shoot.
And don't drop a piston in there either unless you're ready to cuss.
I'd first try just a wire wheel or brush ?
 

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Wow a bit of a rollercoaster of emotions! I started this morning by ultrasonic cleaning the cylinder which did a great job of removing the filth and left a nice even finish. Then I used glass bead #7 (medium) on it but it wasn't enough to cut through the corrosion so I then used glass abrasive #75 (medium) which did an amazing job, it gave a bright matt finish.

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Then I went over it again with the glass bead which gave it a really nice sheen but a darker finish. On the bottom photo the left half is abrasive and bead and the right half is just abrasive.
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Below is before and after.

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I soda blasted the line of carbon on the inside, it seemed to come off nicely.
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I was pretty excited with the results but then I put in back in the ultrasonic to clean the media out and it turned the aluminum a blotchy black!

A lot of work for nothing.
 
Blast it again to get the brightness back then wash with dish soap and HOT water. Do a final rinse... or 3 or 5 with boiling water. Yes boiling hot. Dry immediately and coat the steel with oil.That's the Lycoming recommended procedure from my airplane days...
 
I removed the pistons and cleaned them with soda, they appear to be in pretty good shape. When I removed the circlips one of them shot out and I searched the ground with no luck, later on I realized that it had fallen into the crankcase! fished it out with a magnet.
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I removed the valves from this engine just to see what condition they were in? I was thinking that I would use the top cylinder from the first engine since the valves had already been done but once I removed them I decided to clean them and they look pretty good but there is some pitting on the valve surface.
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I wrapped electrical tape around the stem and put them in a drill and using a super fine 3M pad and WD-40 I removed most of the carbon. Then I used 800 and 1500 grit wet sandpaper.
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I also disassembled the front brake caliper but I have to figure out a way to get the piston out? it's rusted solid.
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I soda blasted the first cam shaft that was coated in rust was just curious how well it would work.
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That's some pretty good results all around! For somebody who does re-grinding, where they build it up, re-grind (hi-lift or re-phase), and re-plate, that cam would be a good candidate. For that "stuck" brake caliper, you could try replacing the bleeder with a grease fitting and pumping it out with a grease gun. I haven't tried that myself, but heard it works on stubborn pistons. :twocents:
 
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