Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Makes sense to me. I figured I was onlyissing one. Because I had 19 for Bott but only found 18 for top. I couldn't figure I found an extra one just lyin' around lol.

Got my swingarm on today just to see it all kinda come together. Going to need to get a grease gun and really pump it full. I had a hell of a time getting the shaft into the new swingarm with the brass bushings.

I can confirm that the left shock has blown out because it's dirty as hell and there was a puddle of oil under it on the shelf that it laid on. Guess that means I'll be spending a good amount on new, taller ones to give me the compensated height I'll need for the rear mag when I get one.
 
Makes sense to me. I figured I was onlyissing one. Because I had 19 for Bott but only found 18 for top. I couldn't figure I found an extra one just lyin' around lol.

Got my swingarm on today just to see it all kinda come together. Going to need to get a grease gun and really pump it full. I had a hell of a time getting the shaft into the new swingarm with the brass bushings.

I can confirm that the left shock has blown out because it's dirty as hell and there was a puddle of oil under it on the shelf that it laid on. Guess that means I'll be spending a good amount on new, taller ones to give me the compensated height I'll need for the rear mag when I get one.
Watch out for chain rubbing on top of the swing arm if using longer shocks. This gets worse with smaller rear sprockets, which again sort of goes with 16" rear wheels. This whole "problem complex" starts with the excessive primary drive reduction ratio chosen by the designers back in the 60s. Other comparable street bikes mostly have 37-45 tooth rear sprockets, where the XS has 32-34, and I believe some owners have gone as low as 29.
 
Chain rubbing shouldn't be an issue as long as you keep your new longer shocks within reason, say 13" to 13.5". I run 337mm long (13.27") Konis on mine and have no rubbing problems.
 
Chain rubbing shouldn't be an issue as long as you keep your new longer shocks within reason, say 13" to 13.5". I run 337mm long (13.27") Konis on mine and have no rubbing problems.
That depends a lot on sprocket sizes. On mine, with 33/18 sprockets and 340 mm shocks, I definitely see chain rub. Of course, spring rate and rider weight also affect this. My springs were definitely on the stiff side, before I replaced them the other day. No test ride before May, unfortunately. 5 feet of snow and a blizzard outside tonight, we are being hit by a polar low pressure system right now.....
 
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That depends a lot on sprocket sizes. On mine, with 33/18 sprockets and 340 mm shocks, I definitely see chain rub.
Good to hear as 18/34 gearing is such a tempting combo to try with a 16" rear wheel and also 340mm shocks. Even chain selection may "make or break" the deal I suppose? As a heavier O-ring chain may just be too close for that 18 tooth counter shaft sprocket ? Does your spoken of chain rubbing occur only on top of the swingarm ? or maybe chewing on the steel/rubber guide behind the cover right there under the chain ?
-R
 
Good to hear as 18/34 gearing is such a tempting combo to try with a 16" rear wheel and also 340mm shocks. Even chain selection may "make or break" the deal I suppose? As a heavier O-ring chain may just be too close for that 18 tooth counter shaft sprocket ? Does your spoken of chain rubbing occur only on top of the swingarm ? or maybe chewing on the steel/rubber guide behind the cover right there under the chain ?
-R
On my bike, the rubbing is on top of the swing arm, I ended up making a plastic chain guide for the fwd end of the swing arm (just around the pivot tube) The guide below the sprocket had to go when fitting the 18 t front sprocket. I am actually in the process of getting a high ratio primary gear set from Ivan Hoey, to avoid this issue by using a larger rear sprocket. Which will also allow using other rear hubs that otherwise limit how small a rear sprocket you can use.
 
Dang, just a bit more complicated than expected, again. Thanks !
:thumbsup:
As long as you stay with a fairly large rear sprocket, shocks up to 340 mm should be ok, as long as the spring rate gives a sensible amount of sag. But if you want "longer legs", combined with longer than stock shocks, you will run into chain rub issues.
 
On my bike, the rubbing is on top of the swing arm, I ended up making a plastic chain guide for the fwd end of the swing arm (just around the pivot tube) The guide below the sprocket had to go when fitting the 18 t front sprocket. I am actually in the process of getting a high ratio primary gear set from Ivan Hoey, to avoid this issue by using a larger rear sprocket. Which will also allow using other rear hubs that otherwise limit how small a rear sprocket you can use.

I’ve been following this thread with interest!

I’m going to be using 13.66” Ohilns shocks but I have already purchased a set of Ivan’s gears to negate any rubbing issues on my swingarm.
 
It's tax time, that means I'll be spending roughly $500 on the build here in the next few weeks.

With the frame painted, and the steering and swingarm reattached, what are some good experienced suggestions when it comes to what's next?

I've been debating finally investing in a solid set of mag wheels so I can figure out the height of my new rear suspension, I figure with that all out of the way I'd finally be ready to divert all of my attention to the motor. Saving the best for last seemed to make sense to me but hey, that's why I'm asking.

What do you guys think would be the most important thing to focus on next?
 
I'd continue doing a "mock up assembly" while remembering that it is easiest to put the engine back into a essentially bare frame.
That's pretty much what I figured. Though, I may try laying the motor on its side, and dropping the bike around it. I'm a ways away from that thought.

I'm just excited to be able to finally entertain some thoughts on my build again!
 
What do you guys think would be the most important thing to focus on next?
Doing the 16" rear wheel conversion will require further "mock up assembly" the new swingarm/chain relationship and component changes will include longer shocks. Find those. Shocks may be a bigger expense than you are thinking. The relationship of all the new components, even the needed smaller rear sprocket and chain length will all come in to play around the front sprocket and the potential chain rub locations on the swingarm and inside the left cover on that guide. Without the engine you are approximating. There are many parted out engines all over. Even one in my garage corner. It may benefit you to find a stripped bottom end to mount up in the frame just for the front sprocket location proving of the other components you come up with ?
-R
 
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I could do this with my motor. I have the bottom end in a box and the transmission in a bag. It wouldn't bee to challenging to locate the parts just for mock up. Problem is this: I have a new chain awaiting, and it's a river type. So I'll need to probably use the old stretched out chain, or invest in another new chain, which I see as kind of a waste at this time.
It's all going to come together harder than I figure. And I've looked into shocks. I know it's gonna be a bit much. I dream of Ohlins shocks but I'm not forking out $800 for rear suspension.
 
shock-absorber-7610-1418-shock-absorber-1.jpg

If I were doing your project, I'd try hard to find these..
 
I could do this with my motor. I have the bottom end in a box and the transmission in a bag. It wouldn't bee to challenging to locate the parts just for mock up. Problem is this: I have a new chain awaiting, and it's a river type. So I'll need to probably use the old stretched out chain, or invest in another new chain, which I see as kind of a waste at this time.
It's all going to come together harder than I figure. And I've looked into shocks. I know it's gonna be a bit much. I dream of Ohlins shocks but I'm not forking out $800 for rear suspension.

I know exactly where you’re coming from with the Ohilns, I lucked out and got a near new set off a Kawasaki Zephyr for $400.
 
More than what I think, search Ikon shocks in the search block and read what other members have written there.
My experience with Konis goes back to BMW airhead days.
They look very authentic and better. They fit, bolt on. They Work ! Very well. Quite affordable.
-R
 
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