What have you done to your XS today?

tzimmerm, if you go to https://shopyamaha.com then under Parts > Motorcycles (Road) > Cruiser you will find all the XS models by entering the Year and selecting the model. You will then see a drop down menu that allows you to see the microfiche e.g. Rear Wheel gives the part number for the axle.

There is a similar setup on other parts websites e.g. for UK use www.fowlersparts.co.uk.

Very useful for checking out part numbers for searching Ebay.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for checking! I finally stopped looking here and went to mikes and their rear axle is listed for all years. Maybe I was confused about there being different lengths. Went ahead and bought the 20.00 from ebay. Free delivery by friday.
 
I though there may have been a difference between spoked and alloy wheels for the H/SH bikes, but not so after checking.
 
okay, this is really driving me nuts. What the hell could be going on here? My dustcap/spacer is sticking out too far on the sprocket side. I have tried driving the bearing in further, and have only managed to scratch Up the hole in the hub and damage the little blue rubber seal several times. The first picture is of the wheel last fall after I rebuilt it with the original bearings inside. Second pic is of the way it sits now. I put the little tophat spacer inside the bearing, with the “rim” of the hat facing inward. I did not measure the new bearings, but I think I eyeballed them side by side and they were the same size. There is a good 1/4 inch difference between the way it was and the way it is now! What the hell is going on? I fear I’m going to have to scrap these bearings and buy another set. I don’t know what else to do.
1DE8A63B-4294-4035-9488-BD914C2DD825.jpeg
3979A34F-1167-4292-BC05-402A714CD41A.jpeg
 
Yeah... either the bearings not properly seated or it's too wide... or a combination of the two.
 
Ok, well, drove them back out. I can’t see any difference between the new and old bearing. Must have just gotten stuck. Guess I‘ll try the freezer method next time. Just what I get for gloating about the front wheel being too easy. Now I have to wait until Friday for my SECOND new seat of bearings, AND my new axle. What’s another 50.00?
 
That’s the pic I knew I saw somewhere! Thanks for reposting it. I should have figured the difference was between the first few years and everything else. Looks like the one I bought from Ebay will work just fine. One thing thats still stumping me- even though it seems the bearing wasn’t fully seated, the spacer between the two bearings was tight between them. It almost seemed like the spacer was keeping the bearing from being fully seated by keeping the inner race from being able to go in any further. When I go to put them back in, I’ll start with the sprocket side. Can I safely use a heat gun to heat the hub for install?
 
Last edited:
Well, I decided to just go for it and press the other bearing in and see what happens. I kept an eye it as it went in, and went deep enough so the speedo drive parts would catch the little cutouts in the hub. As it all went in it pushed the bearing on the other side of the hub outwards a bit, but it all seems to be right within spec, so I guess I was just splitting hairs the whole time.
Ok, so I’ve been thinking all day about the issues with the rear wheel, and after reading this thread, I want to ask- do the rear wheel bearings both have to be seated all the way into the center of the hub? Is there a problem if they are sitting a bit further out? According to this post, when he drove the one side in, it pushed the bearing on the opposite side out just a bit. I keep thinking that’s what it seems like is going on with my rear wheel. I pressed the brake side (smaller) bearing in first, flipped the wheel over, then dropped in the spacer, then tried pressing in the larger sprocket side bearing with the tophat reducer already pressed in, and it felt like the inner races were tight against the spacer, and thats what was keeping the bearing from seating any deeper into the hub. This time around, if I reverse the process and start with the bigger bearing on the sprocket side, since the dust cover needs to be flush, and THEN drive the brake side bearing in, and it stops short of seating all the way, but theres still room for the seal, am I good? It occurred to me that my wheel bearings could have been that way the entire time; I wouldn't have any way to have known. Thats the only thing that makes sense, because the spacer was very tight between the two bearings last night before I finally gave up and drove them out. Btw, Thanks a million 5twins for the tip about the socket on the tophat. Wish I would have read that before the FIRST teardown.
 
Last edited:
20200218_180145.jpg
Father Time - 10 Old Bike - 2
I needed a crappy real wheel for a mock up so grabbed it off my 75 from the shed. Although I hope to extensively refresh it, it has to go back on the rack again for a few months.
 
I haven`t looked at any motorcycle project since Nov 21st so today I installed new bearings and seals in the rear Pentagram Wheel. I spent the rest of the day making spacers and aligning the chain and brake caliper bracket. This Pentagram Wheel project is fast becoming a real pain in the ass!:shootme:
spacers 002.JPG spacers 003.JPG spacers 001.JPG
 
I haven`t looked at any motorcycle project since Nov 21st so today I installed new bearings and seals in the rear Pentagram Wheel. I spent the rest of the day making spacers and aligning the chain and brake caliper bracket. This Pentagram Wheel project is fast becoming a real pain in the ass!:shootme:
View attachment 160107 View attachment 160108 View attachment 160109

I’m happy to see you getting into another build, yours are always so interesting to follow, and those wheels? I think they are going to be real defining item that will make this bike unique! Carry on ! :thumbsup:
 
Hey, quick question in regards to my tapered neck bearings-I have been searching AGAIN for the last hour or so and can’t find a post I know I’ve read before- now that I’m having to redo the rear wheel bearings I’m paranoid about my steering stem bearing install. I was only able to re-install one of the two notched and dished nuts that thread onto the stem
Above the dust cap due to the extra space that the tapered bearings and the new seals take up on the stem. I thought I read before install that that was okay- can someone please weigh in and confirm that this isn't a problem?
 
Okay, so about halfway done, but this is going WAY smoother than it seems like it ought to be. I was able to knock out both top and bottom steering neck races with about 4 taps each. They both came out clean. I used the old race to tap the inner lower race onto my stem, and I was going to use the same tactic to press the upper race into the bottom of the neck, only it literally went in by hand. Is this normal? I know I have the right part. It’s a snug fit, but it just went straight up in there. Is this okay? Am I just lucky? Is it perhaps that I’m working on my bike out the garage where it’s cold so the metal frame is already compressed a bit?
My opinion, if it's snug, it's OK. You may want to check the play after 5K or so. Mine got slightly loose, probably due to break-in and settling. You want the tubes to be loose or off when you adjust the play. If they're in, give the tubes a spin after adjustment, then check again. Sorry for the lack of responses. It wasn't my turn to pay attention!
 
Last edited:
Hey, quick question in regards to my tapered neck bearings-I have been searching AGAIN for the last hour or so and can’t find a post I know I’ve read before- now that I’m having to redo the rear wheel bearings I’m paranoid about my steering stem bearing install. I was only able to re-install one of the two notched and dished nuts that thread onto the stem
Above the dust cap due to the extra space that the tapered bearings and the new seals take up on the stem. I thought I read before install that that was okay- can someone please weigh in and confirm that this isn't a problem?
One nut sets the bearing tension and the other nut locks the first in place. They're both kinda important.
 
Above the dust cap due to the extra space that the tapered bearings and the new seals take up on the stem. I thought I read before install that that was okay- can someone please weigh in and confirm that this isn't a problem?
Dumb question. You did take out the old races? The tapered races are a little taller but not so much not to have room for second nut.
 
Back
Top