important engine oil question

I use Valvoline 20/50 racing oil with ZDDP.

I have a bottle of this at home. It does have ZDDP. Somewhere on the bottle it says, "NOT FOR USE WITH WET CLUTCHES".

ZDDP has been removed from diesel oil. Buy the ZDDP bottle for break-in and add it to your favorite engine oil. That's the opinion of me. Me is not an expert. Do what I say at your own peril.
 
I have a bottle of this at home. It does have ZDDP. Somewhere on the bottle it says, "NOT FOR USE WITH WET CLUTCHES".
I checked the bottles I have and find nothing about wet clutches. It does say it has friction modifiers in it. That might be what you are thinking of.
I've been using it with no clutch problems that I can tell. But then I don't run it all that hard. I think the best oil to use is whatever you are comfortable with.
I think the only 2 thing most people may agree on when it comes to oil is any oil is better than no oil and new clean oil is better than old dirty oil.
I do enjoy oil threads. It's interesting to see what other people are using. I sure I've read about more than 2 dozen different oils that guys are running. Everybody seems happy with what they are using.
I know all too well that oil is the life blood of a engine.
 
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FWIW, I heard the regular, average 20W-50 Wal-Mart brand oil is pretty good. I always thought doing oil changes at the proper intervals was more important than what you're doing your oil changes with. At 1,000 mile intervals, your oil should hardly be dirty! This is after you've been running it regularly for a while, and has "cleaned" itself out. Save the oil and use it in your lawn mower! (After running it through a coffee filter, in case there's any particulates...) :twocents:
 
Followed the oil debates with some interest - there have been a few of them over the years. The results are idiosyncratic but there do appear to be some commonalities. 20/50 is the weight most recommended though 20/40 is the weight cited in the manuals. The advantage of the 50 weight is engine noise reduction. Those in colder climes may find a lower initial weight rating more suitable for cold start. Castrol and Valvoline seem to be popular brands. Mineral oil is preferred over semi or full synthetic. ZDDP or a zinc additive is generally supported. Diesel oils like Rotella are also popular because their detergent content simulates the composition of oils from the era in which the bikes were manufactured. Regular and relatively short interval oil changes, (800 - 1600km) are highly advised limiting the adoption of highly priced, "sophisticated" oils. Regular cleaning or replacement of filters is also reccommended.
Like everyone else, I will give my opinion. I have filled my rebuilt motor with Valvoline XLD 20w/50. Why? Because it meets all of the criteria listed above, is recommended by experts on this forum and at $14.50 AUD, (that's $9.60 USD) for 4 litres,I will be able to afford to toss it every 800km.
 
I heard the regular, average 20W-50 Wal-Mart brand oil is pretty good.

Hey now! 5 Twins said he likes that stuff, so that was good enough for me! It’s cheap as chips, I buy it in the 5 qt jugs, I change oil a lot and have been very happy with it. I get absolutely no clutch issues with it. By the way I was using Valvoline motorcycle oil which was way more expensive, and every time I went to start my cold bike, my clutch plates were stuck together something fierce. I do not have that issue with Wally World oil.
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So the Walmart stuff is 20w/50 API SN and the Valvoline gear is API SG. I wonder what the hell that means, it's the only difference I can find. Unhappily, we in the Antipodes are denied the pleasure of Walmart's company, (if you'll pardon the pun). What do you call cheap Bob?
 
First of all, I have limited experience of extended mileage XS engines, so do not have any strong opinions on this slippery subject....
But, as at least one other member points out, the oil grade used should to some degree reflect the local temperature where the bike is ridden, as well as how it is ridden. I for one, use my bikes in any temperature above freezing, and due to local speed limitis mostly stay below 60-65 mph. Someone road racing an XS in a hot climate, or even cruising the Autobahn at 80-90 mph surely need somewhat higher viscosity oil than me, living a half days ride above the Arctic Circle.
Also, say a 5w50 is not supposed to be thinner than a straight 50 oil at operating temperatures. It just has a superior viscosity index, so does not get syrupy at low temps. Sort of having the cake, and eating it too. Must be good for the sump filter, at least.
Then there is the matter of oil change intervals vs oil filter arrangement. Could it be that short recommended change intervals are due to the cleaning requirements of the oem filter? And also its limited filtering ability, leading to contaminated oil? If so, a spin on or remote filter setup should help a lot with extending safe oil change intervals. On the other hand, if the ball and roller bearings in the XS somehow break the long molecular chains in the oil and additives, then that would be the determining factor. I believe someone marketed engine oils specifically for roller/ball bearing engines. Perhaps HD, or one of the single cyl specialists, like KTM or Husqvarna.
In any case, air cooled 2 valve Ducati engines have ball main bearings, ball camshaft bearings, plain big end bearings, but little pressure on cam and rockers, due to hardly any spring pressure. And I will happily run one of those at least 5000 miles between oil changes. They do have a car sized spin on oil filter, so most likely that plays a major role.
 
Anyone else use the shell rotella 15 40 deisel oil in the 5gt jugs? I heard it has no additives or friction modifies. It's also cheap.
 
5 quarts is around 4.75l. 4l is only around 4.2 qts. That's the size this product comes in here. I got the Valvoline at a half price sale from Woolworths, (super market chain), so it is normally $29 AUD. That is currently $19 USD for 4l. Your Walmart oil is cheap!
Lucky bugger!
 
My XS650 has almost 60K miles on it. I’ve done nothing but routine maintenance. I do regular oil changes, but I’m not good at tracking the mileage. I use Yamalube, Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol, Rotella, and whatever else is available when I need it. I don’t think brand makes an appreciable difference. The best oil is clean and slippery.
 
My XS650 has almost 60K miles on it. I’ve done nothing but routine maintenance. I do regular oil changes, but I’m not good at tracking the mileage. I use Yamalube, Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol, Rotella, and whatever else is available when I need it. I don’t think brand makes an appreciable difference. The best oil is clean and slippery.
Then my question is: What type of oil filter do you have, and what replacement or cleaning interval? What type of riding, city stop and go, highway or country road? I guess the Missisippi climate is rather warm most of the time, at least above 20C ?
 
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