Transmission Issues

Hightower-Ash98

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Alright boys I've done the rounds on the forums, and the time in the seat, I've determined through a thorough series of tests and experimentation, the answer to my problems is; something's fucky!

Transmission refuses to shift above second, whether or not that has got something to do with my extremely limited roadway testing (covid19 has shown an increase in the presence of Bears on the roadways) due to lack of a tag, registration, and license.
Or a poorly adjusted clutch, the world may not know for it appears that my buckey of rusty bolts is missing something!
I appreciate any advice the grey-beards among us may bestow upon me, and leave you with a photo of the offending empty space within mine engine.
20200323_181240.jpg


Bonus image for those interested, mighty fine dremel work from a PO long ago! May we bask in his handiness
15850020340608681964175796947264.jpg
 
You may as well pull the foot peg, shift lever, and cover off so we can see how your clutch even worked ? Bet there are more fun surprises in there for you

That I shall good sir, that I shall! Seeing how I managed to successfully secure a job in this apocalypse, I can continue to justify purchasing random odds and ends for my bike.,
 
Both that adjusting screw and it's lock nut are special parts, they're just not a normal nut and screw.
 
Or, if you just want those two missing parts, they are still available from Yamaha. They would also be easy to scrounge because they were used on many, many other models. Personally, I don't care for that MikesXS worm assembly. 2M discovered that they altered the angle of the swirling, made it less, apparently to give a little easier lever pull. Now while it may do that, it also doesn't move the pushrod as much as a stock unit. That means less clutch plate separation and that's not good on a clutch that already has issues with that.
 
Or, if you just want those two missing parts, they are still available from Yamaha. They would also be easy to scrounge because they were used on many, many other models. Personally, I don't care for that MikesXS worm assembly. 2M discovered that they altered the angle of the swirling, made it less, apparently to give a little easier lever pull. Now while it may do that, it also doesn't move the pushrod as much as a stock unit. That means less clutch plate separation and that's not good on a clutch that already has issues with that.
I'm gonna level with you, I've got no clue how this transmission works. Does the worm drive like, push that rod into the pressure plate? Looks like theres a ball inside of it that adjusts the tension on the pushrod?
 
Good thing to hear that ball is still there ! :thumbsup:
Yes , see how if that cable pulled the lever up the spiral "screw" action (that same ball) would push on the clutch rod?
It's pretty simple
 
Good thing to hear that ball is still there ! :thumbsup:
Yes , see how if that cable pulled the lever up the spiral "screw" action (that same ball) would push on the clutch rod?
It's pretty simple
Sounds like it, so this adjustment would allow me to find neutral, shift easier, or shift at all? No need to remove the whole clutch right
 
I think you need to try to use the correct components all set to test the shifting before you just assume the transmission and clutch have problems. Get the easy stuff done first. This is the easy stuff and it just may "fix" your issue.
I still cant see how the clutch worked in first without the missing screw through the center of the actuator ?
:umm:
 
I think you need to try to use the correct components all set to test the shifting before you just assume the transmission and clutch have problems. Get the easy stuff done first. This is the easy stuff and it just may "fix" your issue.
I still cant see how the clutch worked in first without the missing screw through the center on the actuator ?
:umm:
Very poorly
 
That missing screw is basically just another freeplay adjuster. Without it, you would have had to do all your adjusting up at the lever on the handlebars, and that may not have been enough. Usually, you adjust as much freeplay out as possible with that missing screw down on the worm. Then you finish up with some fine tuning (a few turns at most) up at the handlebar.
 
That missing screw is basically just another freeplay adjuster. Without it, you would have had to do all your adjusting up at the lever on the handlebars, and that may not have been enough. Usually, you adjust as much freeplay out as possible with that missing screw down on the worm. Then you finish up with some fine tuning (a few turns at most) up at the handlebar.
That explains why I had the handlebar threaded all the way out!
 
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