Miss November XS2 tribute

Of dear. Sometimes worry about the now minor oil leaks from the points cover area. Caused at least in part by the Helicoil job that was done . . .

Not nearly as many XSs in UK as USA. Therefore much less chance of buying s/h cylinder head or decent used engine.

Now, spotted an complete engine on ebay. Looks very clean, claimed to be low mileage, said to have good compression. But it's a 2F0 engine -214*** which suggests 1980 SG? I don't think that gives a problem, looked around on this forum and it seems to be basically 447- type.

Thing is, I need to be dissuaded from going and lashing out serious money just to have a spare engine/sort an oil leak.

Comments invited.
 
Silicone will fix your leak. £2.50. Another engine £££££££££££££&££££££££££££. + loads of work.
Failing that take some toilet roll and wipe it off every time you stop. Forget that, toilet roll very scarce in the UK.
 
Well, I had been hoping that dismantle, clean and put together with Yamabond would cure the leak from the points housing.

At first, it seemed fine. But after a few runs, oil began to appear. Not too sure if it's all coming from there - looks as if there may be a little weeping from the exhaust rocker covers. Plus possibly the head gasket area. Or the base gasket. Or both.

It's not a lot of oil. Yes, a sheet of toilet paper, if one can be spared from the dwindling national stock, would be adequate to wipe it off.

Don't know why I find oil leaks so disheartening. Maybe the efforts I put into my Triumph 650? Ultimately, reduced the oil leaks to nothing very much but never completely eradicated.

But this is a Yamaha XS650 - they're not supposed to leak oil. Will have another go with Yamabond plus re-tighten the head bolts and see if that does it.

The engine I spotted is a cool grand. You see XS650 engines for £500 but they are generally scruffy and have side covers missing, no oil pipe, etc. This one does look nice and Mrs says 'Just buy it, if that's what you need!'

But of course, I don't need it.

Tempting though.
 
Silicone will fix your leak. £2.50. Another engine £££££££££££££&££££££££££££. + loads of work.
Failing that take some toilet roll and wipe it off every time you stop. Forget that, toilet roll very scarce in the UK.

Hi Rasputin,
bog-roll hoarding also rampant in Saskatoon and presumably all Canada.
Seems like watching on line Covid-19 scare data has an IQ reduction side effect.
 
Oh, these bikes can be very good at leaking oil, lol. When I got mine, it was like the Exxon Valdez on two wheels, lol. It wasn't even running but still left big oil spots under it wherever it was parked. I bought a complete engine gasket set and an oil seal kit, and eventually used most everything in both. I got the old girl pretty much leak-free for a few years but some oil leaking is coming back now.
 
Through the foggy mists ( double adjective) of time, I recall my XS in 73/74,though there was nothing to do maintenance wise, I would change the oil. Strange thing was after the first change the oil filter cover would eventually start to dribble, after removing the cover and cleaning out the filter, there was never anything in it, the leak would stop. Another six hundred miles or so it would start to dribble. Tamagotchi springs to mind.
Never knew about the suction screen in the bottom, sold the bike in late 75 with 13500mls on it to fund our wedding.
The XS I have now shows signs of slight weeping from cylinder base, and rocker covers. Probably needs a nip down (retorque) but I’ll keep riding it until it forms a pool when I stop.
PS. It’s 3am and I have indigestion.
 
PICT2090.JPG
 
Ah hah - Mrs. Raymondo won the argument! ;)

I also noted that in my preoccupation with my young folks in Germany I have fallen down on my translation duties - so here is the next one:

Enough of a reason not to over-commit to a bend.

TRANS-ATLANTIC TRANSLATION:
The heavily loaded truck with its high centre (center? - no, sorry, that is just wrong) of gravity is why the driver should not go into a turn while driving at high speed.

hehehehehehe
 
Enough of a reason not to over-commit to a bend.

I also noted that in my preoccupation with my young folks in Germany I have fallen down on my translation duties - so here is the next one:

The heavily loaded truck with its high centre (center?
- no, sorry, that is just wrong) of gravity is why the driver should not go into a turn while driving at high speed.

It's not the lorry driver who over commits and I'm sure you knew what I meant. If you are on two wheels and combination of line & speed doesn't allow for swift reassessment/change of mind, you have over-committed. The lorry driver is unlikely to require hospitalisation or even a change of underwear.

Ah hah - Mrs. Raymondo won the argument!

When it leads to me splashing the cash on another bike, or in this case an engine, I really don't need, Mrs always wins the argument. Funny that.

Didn't pay the full grand. But even so, using a tube of Yamabond would be a cheaper way to tackle oil leaks. This really does appear to be a lovely example of a low-mileage XS650 engine:


PICT2091.JPG


Seller pointed out that the casting has absolutely no chain marks. The sprocket has surface rust but no discernible wear, likewise sprocket nut. The tab washer has never been off. Will perhaps put up a better photo after the side cover is removed but for now:

PICT2092.JPG


Cam chain adjuster nut appears to be a virgin - ooh la la! Also general unmussed-aboutedness (is that a word):


PICT2093.JPG


Seller says he bought the engine from an importer who brought in a low-mileage XS from Canada - only 500 miles, he was told. And he believes that figure. He intended to build a flat tracker but the project never happened so now selling the engine. Has a shed-load of other XS stuff too . . .
 
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I see that motor has the later, more desirable type E cam chain adjuster. You'll want to put that on your '78, and sooner rather than later, lol.
 
that motor has the later, more desirable type E cam chain adjuster. You'll want to put that on your '78
Question here. When a cam chain tensioner is removed for that upgrade to the E type, is there a preferred engine orientation position to have the engine in ?
It would be a shame to have the cam chain skip a tooth in the upgrade process if that could even happen?
 
Also, if it is a 1980 motor, it should have the later version of the charging system (brushes wired differently) and be electronic ignition equipped. What that means is nothing under those little points and advance covers, and no bushings in the ends of the cam to support an advance rod.

And in answer to Machine's question - no, it doesn't matter where the engine is set. I just wouldn't go turning it over while the tensioner is out. The swap is very simple. You don't need to swap everything, just the plunger, spring, damper washer, and adjusting screw, along with the lock nut for the adjusting screw of course. That's the whole point here, to get an adjuster that has a lock nut on it. The type D and E housings are the same so you don't have to switch them.
 
Interesting to see two manifold vacuum pipes. I thought 1980 being the first year of BS34's there was only one fuel tank petcock ?
 
Yes, but both manifolds still came with the vac nipples. You just capped one off with a plug. I'm glad they came that way because it lets you easily hook up a manometer for carb syncing.
 
Very nice score there Raymond! By the way my guess is the the oil leak from your points covers has nothing to do with the Helicoil repair , I’ll bet it’s the cam shaft seals, they are
notorious for leaking.
And I know they enjoy a reputation for being oil tight, but that has never been my experience. I’ve had three now and they all drip in various locations. Ironically my old Bonneville never dripped a drop.
 
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