I was looking at an original seat full of frikin dust/dirt over the white lettering...But, now, looking for a forum thread to ask if a set of 1972 LS 2 ft. and rear turn signals will cross over onto a '72 XS650. Sort of looks like it.
 
These seals need to be very thin because there's not much cam sticking out. The originals are only 5mm thick so a 7mm one might be too thick. I think that's what the troublesome MikesXS seals are. They also market them as an improved version with a triple lip. But all the extra lips in the world will do no good if the seal's too thick and they don't make it onto the end of the camshaft.

I just ordered some 6mm double lip seals plus the seals Jim suggested (24mm vs standard 25mm inner diameter). Gonna nip these leaking seals one way or another.
 
Mailman, I noticed looking at your seal pics in post #3297 that the seal in the 1st pic looks to be seated in on the cam a little more than the seal in the second pic. I think I can make out the seal number (size) in the 1st pic and it looks like it's a 5mm thick seal. Is the seal in the 2nd pic possibly a 6mm thick one? Nicely greased advance rod bushings by the way.
 
Mailman, I noticed looking at your seal pics in post #3297 that the seal in the 1st pic looks to be seated in on the cam a little more than the seal in the second pic. I think I can make out the seal number (size) in the 1st pic and it looks like it's a 5mm thick seal. Is the seal in the 2nd pic possibly a 6mm thick one? Nicely greased advance rod bushings by the way.

I looked through all my reference photos and can’t tell for sure. I’ll try and take a peek and see if I can see it.
 
The other day while I was working on my bike, I noticed one of my muffler clamps was loose, when I went to tighten it I realized the clamp was broken. I checked online and it is NLA from Yamaha, so I found a couple on Mikes XS.
I ordered two, because the one on the other side had been damaged by battery acid, long before I got it. Today they arrived ,
FDE6E4B8-94FA-46E9-B297-7DEEA9648048.jpeg


Off with the old......
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And on with the new!
DDC96077-35F9-4FE8-99EA-C77621D9CBCB.jpeg
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It’s the details that count don’t you know. :cool:
 
Its funny about those clamps. When I first installed mine I decided that the brace spanning the clamp and the other bracket were not needed. After a while the clamps started to rotate and the only thing to stop that was to install that brace.
 
Well, I think I finally resolved the leaking cam seal issue. I ordered two of of the 6mm wide seals (vs 7mm which is what Mike's ships) and thought I'd try the 6mm x 25mm ID seals first before giving the seals Jim mentioned (24mm ID) a try. I eliminated the paper gasket behind both housings, used just the rubber o-ring and aircraft sealer on the mating surfaces, and pressed the new seals in so they slightly protrude beyond the housing surface. You can see from the first "before" pic how the lip of the seal was right on the edge of the camshaft. The "after" pic shows that I have a good 1mm of the camshaft protruding beyond the new seal. Same now on both sides. Went for a good 20 mile ride (finally had a day over 50 degrees) and so far it's bone dry. Will report later if anything changes. Also polished the cam shaft a bit with a scotch pad before installing new seals. One thing I noticed is that I could hand press these new seals in, so just a thin coating of aircraft gasket sealer was applied to the mating surfaces prior to install. I then let it dry good before taking it for a run. So far so good!
Inkedcam seal old_LI.jpg
Inkedcam seal 1_LI.jpg
Inkednew install_LI.jpg
 
Well, I think I finally resolved the leaking cam seal issue. I ordered two of of the 6mm wide seals (vs 7mm which is what Mike's ships) and thought I'd try the 6mm x 25mm ID seals first before giving the seals Jim mentioned (24mm ID) a try. I eliminated the paper gasket behind both housings, used just the rubber o-ring and aircraft sealer on the mating surfaces, and pressed the new seals in so they slightly protrude beyond the housing surface. You can see from the first "before" pic how the lip of the seal was right on the edge of the camshaft. The "after" pic shows that I have a good 1mm of the camshaft protruding beyond the new seal. Same now on both sides. Went for a good 20 mile ride (finally had a day over 50 degrees) and so far it's bone dry. Will report later if anything changes. Also polished the cam shaft a bit with a scotch pad before installing new seals. One thing I noticed is that I could hand press these new seals in, so just a thin coating of aircraft gasket sealer was applied to the mating surfaces prior to install. I then let it dry good before taking it for a run. So far so good!View attachment 166943 View attachment 166944 View attachment 166945

Terrific! I hope this does the trick for you. Thanks for the update, I’ll have to give mine another look soon! :thumbsup:
 
Here's what's confounding me about this whole sealing issue... These are simple dual lip garlock seals. Being a garlock means there's a spring on the inside forcing the sealing lip against the shaft to form an oil tight seal. There's two lips, the sealing lip I just mentioned and the dust lip. What we're talking about here is using thinner seals... or doing away with the gasket.... or whatever else we're doing... all to bring the dust lip further in on the cam. The thing is.. the dust lip isn't what keeps the oil in... that's the sealing lips job.
The proof's in the puddin' as they say... and I hope your seal stays dry Larry... I'm just at a loss to understand why giving the dust lip more purchase is stopping the oil. :umm:


design-for-rotary-shaft-lip-seals.jpg
 
The proof's in the puddin' as they say... and I hope your seal stays dry Larry... I'm just at a loss to understand why giving the dust lip more purchase is stopping the oil. :umm:
It may have more to do with giving the seal a new area to ride on. Just a thought. We used to put Speede-Sleves on harmonic balancers so the seal would have a new surface to seal on. Worked well.
 
It may have more to do with giving the seal a new area to ride on.
Could very well be it Greg. In which case... might be able to use an exacto knife and trim the inside of an existing seal so it seats further in without hitting the cam bearings.

design-for-rotary-shaft-lip-seals mod.png
 
Though the dust lip isn't meant to seal in oil, I gotta believe there is some element of additional oil sealing going on by having it ride solidly on the camshaft vs. Right on the edge. Perhaps by giving that dust lip a firmer/even surface to ride on, the actual spring in the seal can do it's job better. Just a thought.
 
The 5mm thick cam seal can be had from any Yamaha dealer, it's what they sell now. This is the seal they originally used on the 650 for the first few years of production. Then for some reason, they switched to a 6mm thick seal. But now they've gone back to using that old original 5mm thick seal. At the top of the list .....

s3szjME.jpg
 
I'm turning pg 9 now and my eyes keep getting wider...I went the Evapo-Rust route but need to do more. Lucky my gauge faces were not in the sun but had to take fine steel wool to see if it removed the rust...yes, easily. OK, on to pg 10 of Mailman's resto...P5200357.JPG P5200355.JPG
 

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