What have you done to your XS today?

Many of you know this: just do the work on a build that is necessary anyway, if your budget is exhausted, because I am at home without a job like many others during the Covid-19 Crisis and now have a lot of time.
The power bill, buying grocery's and daily needs (+ gas for the bike and money for a coffee somewhere) simply have priority!!
buy the way: the rotors are from the TX750, are they similar to the XS ? (I have none of the XS to compare diameter 298mm- 7mm thickness)
 

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I thought I was more careful than this but I stripped hole for the choke lever.
20200521_081351.jpg

Finally got everything back together and despite the hole being stripped, I was still able to use the choke and it ran ok. The right side was running rich by the smell and the left was running lean going by the popping on decel. But other than that it felt good to ride again and legally for the first time. I was actually able to ride on places other than back roads.
 
Scrapmetal, nice to see someone drilling their own discs, but your pattern is wrong. Adjoining rows of holes should be offset so the holes in one cover the areas with no holes in the other. The whole point of drilling the holes is to cover the whole area of the disc that gets swept by the pads with holes. As yours sits now, you have two rings around the disc that aren't covered by any holes.
 
Or helicoil
Yeah, didn't mention heli because of the expense. Could thread in a stud with locktight and use a Teflon lock nut. Using a longer screw may be the best. Just cut it down till you get full reach and proper distance for the lever and it's washer?
 
I just consider HeliCoil kits part of the cost of owning old bikes. Years ago I stripped an M6 fastener on the oil filter cover on my SR500. I had a shop fix it and it cost around $20. The next time I stripped one, I priced the kits and saw I could get one for about the same, and it would repair lots more than just one screw hole. Then to repair even more holes, replacement inserts are available cheap. Eventually, I got other size kits (M4, M5, and M8), and more inserts in different lengths. I even got some M6 sized bottoming taps for doing M6 blind holes.
 
Scrapmetal, nice to see someone drilling their own discs, but your pattern is wrong. Adjoining rows of holes should be offset so the holes in one cover the areas with no holes in the other. The whole point of drilling the holes is to cover the whole area of the disc that gets swept by the pads with holes. As yours sits now, you have two rings around the disc that aren't covered by any holes.
Think you are right, but I'm not really worried about it, the xs1 will be the weakest bike (hp-wise) I ever had in life, if at that time the xs1 were delivered with drum brakes at the back and front, i don’t think much about overheating and breaking rotors, but you certainly have right with your flaw, and I will consider it in the next project, if there is ever another
 
I use a swirl pattern. Each hole in each swirl steps out further but it's edge still laps into the hole preceding it .....

full


And to answer your earlier question, yes, the TX750 disc is the same as the 650 one.

How long did it take you to drill all those holes with that "T" Handle? :whistle: It may have took a while but, they sure are straight! :thumbsup:
 
How long did it take you to drill all those holes with that "T" Handle? :whistle: It may have took a while but, they sure are straight! :thumbsup:
96 holes a disc, 192 both lost 150 grams each rotor, 300 both, have a stand drill, sharpened the drill once, rotated the disc when drilling to prevent overheating on one side
 
I just used the T handle to deburr the holes. They got drilled on my little $49 HF table-top drill press. When you drill a disc, you don't want to countersink the holes, you want to leave them relatively sharp edged. This scrapes and cleans the pads better. But, you don't want burrs hanging out of the holes either. So, a couple twists by hand with a nice sharp bit larger than your holes does the trick.
 
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