TCI Replacement 2020 It Works

These magnets are quite a bit stronger than the stock ones so I don't think it will be a factor. At one point the pickup was at a greatly less than optimum position vs. the arc of the magnet and sparked like mad on the simulator .
 
:bike: AND It's slug repellent! :p

Who you callin' a slug boy... :cautious:
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Uh Houston.... we might just have a problem here.... :cautious:

So... I'm gonna run through the magnet installation, but first... here's a shot of the finished rotor next to a oem TCI rotor. See if you can spot the problem.


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Alrighty then.... the 1/4" end mill bits showed up today, so the first thing I did was drill into some scrap phenolic sheet to see how well the phenolic drills. It drills pretty good, but neither of my brand new end mills ran true. The hole on the left was the best at .258, so that's the bit I went with. Funny that... 2 end mills for 5 bucks from China... and I expected 'em to run true. :rolleyes:


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Anyway... centered up the rotor in the press and went just slightly deeper than the 1/16" thickness of the magnet. Reason for that is I wanted some JB Weld underneath the magnet as well as around it.


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The magnets are nice and polished so I sanded the side and bottom so the epoxy has some teeth to bite into. 400 grit did just fine for that. To find the "bottom" of the magnet, I tested the polarity against the TCI rotor. So I don't know if it's north or south, just that it's the same. I'll hunt up a compass to find out and add that info here shortly.


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And glued it in.


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I'll let it cure overnight and clean up the edges.... then on to some testing. Anyone spot the potential problem?
 
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Will the magnet transfer to the adjacent bolt and cause an early signal to fire? And then fire again at the magnet?
Ding ding ding.... give that man a ceegar. :smoke:

I've rebuilt prolly 30-40 rotors now, so I knew the fastener pattern changed when they went to TCI... just never gave it much thought. Now I see why... the outer fasteners are running in the same orbit as the magnet. I've rebuilt this rotor with stainless screws, so I don't think it will be a problem. However, the originals were built with plain steel screws. When energized, the pickup will effectively see 5 "magnets." I'm ponderin' some fixes.... copper tape, replace the screws with stainless... we'll see after I energize it tomorrow.
 
Wonder how sensitive the TCI trigger is?
More than sensitive enough to pick up the screws... the plain steel ones that is. The best fix will be to replace the outer screws with stainless when you mod the rotor... but that can be tricky. Based on my experience working with 'em, Yamaha or Hitachi... or whoever built 'em was kinda sloppy with the epoxy and sometimes slopped some on the screw threads. I haven't kept count, but I'd guess about every 10-15 screws and I'll wring off the head on one removing it.... stuck solid. Then ya gotta drill and re-tap the hole. And that means disassembly. I remember one rotor where all 7 screws broke. Figurin' labor... I made about a buck and a quarter an hour on that one. :rolleyes:
 
Use brass screws???
Some stainless grades are more magnetic than others - test to see what grade the screws should be???
Mill the top off the screws to make them flat headed and then put a copper or aluminum disk over the top as a shield???
Replace the screw with a magnet then offset the inductive pickup???
 
In reference to gggGary's comments above: On my previous SH I glued a 0.5mm thick magnet over the top of the old magnet. So clearly there is space for the magnet to be raised a little. The pickup could also be raised a little by inserting a washer or two under those mount screws.

Must go, got to pee!
 
Is this insider trading. The day I posted this thread I ordered 2 boxes from the same place I got the first one. Price was roughly $10.00 a piece and they had 5.
Now they are shipping in the middle of June and the price is $17.69. I suspect that more than a couple of people here are playing in this sandbox.
 
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