Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Got all the stuff as clean as it's gonna get...good enough for the bottom of the motor. Less visible than the rest. Still though, something satisfying about it.
 

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Alright friends... I looked far and wide and cannot figure out where the copper washers belong on the bottom end. Searched forum, manuals, etc. Maybe I'm missing a few PDFs but I need help identifying which studs get copper washers. I'm also pretty sure I lost a steel washer... I count 11 steel washers...
 
Got it figured out. Transmission works well by hand, shift shaft is installed, all bolts and nuts are accounted for (aside from one missing washer I will be getting a replacement for.)

Boy, is this exciting.

Now onto a few other odds and ends on the bottom end, and I'll button it up with side covers, rebuild the top end, and get it in the bike. What a feeling that's gonna be.
 

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Looking around a bit today at the motor and I'm realizing that my clutch pushrod seal is in a little cockeyed. The bottom is pushed in while the top sticks out a bit. Is this going to be an issue/cause uneven wear on the seal?
 
Looking around a bit today at the motor and I'm realizing that my clutch pushrod seal is in a little cockeyed. The bottom is pushed in while the top sticks out a bit. Is this going to be an issue/cause uneven wear on the seal?
Will it work? Maybe... hell, probably. Is it installed correctly? Nope.
Look at it this way... the half arsed hack sez... "that's good enough."
The competent mechanic fixes it until it's "correct."
Which one do you want to grow up to be? ;)
 
Will it work? Maybe... hell, probably. Is it installed correctly? Nope.
Look at it this way... the half arsed hack sez... "that's good enough."
The competent mechanic fixes it until it's "correct."
Which one do you want to grow up to be? ;)
Grow up? Too late.
 
I would remove the push rod and press my thumb against the seal to see if it moves because they are not particularly tight. It may just pop out and then I would put it back in straight using a socket of the same diameter as the seal to tap it in place. It may be possible to uncockeye it by gently taping on one side. If its a no go then levering it out gently may be possible without destroying it. When it comes out just check and make sure the little spring tensioner thingy has not fallen off the seal. Its the circular spring that applies gentle and even pressure on the seal lips. Whenever you use excessive banging to knock a seal in you run the risk of dislodging that spring thing.

The clutch seal usually goes cockeyed if you try to drive it in to far. If you replace the seal buy two just in case. They can be fitted with the engine assembled. However, I think you had an issue with a damaged seal housing if I recall correctly. If you didn't repair it you will need to remove any sharp or raised bits of casing so you don't damage the seal pushing it back in. You may even have to apply a little sealant to make the seal fit well in the damaged area.

Anyway, that's it from me.
 
I guess now would be a good time to mention that I used Yamabond to put that seal in specifically... It was the ONE seal that had damage around the cases so I used extra insurance.

What a mess.
 
If it leaks when the bike is finally together and running it is easy enough to pull it out and carefully push a new seal into place. The process requires you to remove the left alternator cover followed by the chain and front sprocket. It is easier to remove the chain and sprocket than to try fitting a new seal with the sprocket in place. Also, it will help to deburr the outer edge of the seal housing before fitting the new seal. This makes the alignment of the seal much easier. That outer edge is razor sharp and can cut you or the seal.
 
The clutch seal usually goes cockeyed if you try to drive it in to far. If you replace the seal buy two just in case. They can be fitted with the engine assembled. However, I think you had an issue with a damaged seal housing if I recall correctly. If you didn't repair it you will need to remove any sharp or raised bits of casing so you don't damage the seal pushing it back in. You may even have to apply a little sealant to make the seal fit well in the damaged area.

Yup. Did all of the above. Including trying to push it in too far causing it to go crooked. I suppose I could/should re do the gig. Tear it all apart, clean off the yamabond, clean the seal, get it right, add some sealant, and give it a second go... So much work :doh:
 
Got the cases apart using an emergency jack jac my car, and a torch around the mating surfaces, being sure to miss the seals with the flame, I was able to apply enough jack tension to get them split by just tapping with my nylon hammer. Got the mating surfaces cleaned up, and ready for PROPER installation of the seals. Going to be less generous on the Yamabond this time around. Had a lot of extra seepage the first time.

When I'm ready, do I need to make sure the line on the seal is lined up with the groove? I tried that last time, and ended up here...
 

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Could anyone co firm for me if the gasket kits from MikesXS include the o rings for the starter motor housing? One of my o rings is stretched, and I'm ready to install the starter assy.
 
While I'm on the wait for a torque wrench to be borrowed, I found stuff to put together in my spare time. Just fiddling around mostly.

I'm wondering just a few things now.

I read up a bit on the starter gear slip fix. The tech section says if you clamp the spring in a vice on the starter gear, you can increase it's strength. I did this as a preventative measure. The thread also says that buying a non chewed up gear is barely worth it because even fairly chewed gears will suffice with a stronger spring, not to mention, it'll just keep getting chewed up right?

Now. When I was practicing the assembly of the gears as a set, I noticed this but rubs on the gear here... I'm assuming when it's torqued that it won't hit anymore? It must have a very tight clearance...
 

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Just full of more questions now, as usual. Upon inspecting the parts diagrams, I see the order in which the clutch basket(s) assy. Needs to be installed. I purchased a new clutch basket, and I believe it came with two washers... This is a problem for me now because if I follow the parts diagram exactly, the inner clutch basket feels like it's got a good bit of friction against the outer basket. Shouldn't they spin independently from each other with ease? This is how I have the assorted washers installed...

I'm left with these two extra washers. I held them against washers that are part of the assembly and they each match one from it.
 

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OK, first that rubbing nut. From what I can see on a partially torn down motor I have sitting around, there is no washer used under that nut, and if there is one on there, it's very, very small and thin. If there, it's so small I can't even see it with the nut in place.

Now for your clutch assembly. You've left a washer out, that larger of the two leftovers you have. There should be two spacer washers between the inner and outer baskets, along with the flat radial bearing of course. Here's a good drawing .....

wfEBron.jpg
 
OK, first that rubbing nut. From what I can see on a partially torn down motor I have sitting around, there is no washer used under that nut, and if there is one on there, it's very, very small and thin.

This would explain why I was one washer short of a full set. I believe in the tech thread (or somewhere on this forum) there was a picture with the nut having a washer there but now that I see it, it does have a short stud, and the washer seems out of place. As for the clutch basket, I figured there was a washer missing, but parts diagrams are misleading in that spot of the motor... By the looks of it, I Had the right idea when I was fiddling around. The two blue washers are the same size, so I must really only have one extra red one. That SERIOUSLY helps me out. Thanks a ton. Gonna get things torqued down tonight, and install as much as I possibly can.
 
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