ANOTHER oil thread

DirtyErnie

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Check out this guy's page:

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I've switched to this:

73. 20W50 Castrol GTX, API SN conventional = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm

from O'Reilley's 20w-50. GTX lasts a lot longer than the o'Really?s stuff; I had that stuff tapping out after one trip into Minneapolis and back. My gauge on how the oil is doing is how bad the shifting has degraded, and since late last summer, I can't tell any degradation on the GTX. Serious improvement.
 
:popcorn: Great a oil thread!
Something we can all disagree on without politics.
Since reading other threads I've gone to 1500ccs of the cheap as chips Wally World 20W50 with a quart of 20W50 Valvoline racing oil with extra Zinc. So far so good!
 
Thanks, G!
I think I read the whole thing top-to-bottom when I found it, there's a lot of info there. Really like this guy's philosophy, that having a strong-enough oil film is better than having backup anti-wear molecules to protect parts when the oil film can't take it.

I see it like this: would you rather have a shot of Penicillin, or would you rather not get Syphilis in the first place?
 
Since I owned my bike ran 20W50 many flavors. I have ran Yamalube, mobile -twin, royal purple, and Lucas brand. All were recommended motorcycle blends. I am just trying the Lucas brand so can’t give a full review yet. I like the mobile V-twin blend and I would recommend it. The royal purple is not worth the cost if you ask me, but it still performs well. Lucas motorcycle oil is American made and a little cheaper than the mobile v-twin, but like I said time will tell.
 
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My point is about the opposite of that: rather than add a safeguard to weak oil, use a stronger oil. GTX isn't that expensive at Home Depot, maybe $4-6 a quart. Your bike only takes two quarts.
 
Okay, that makes more sense. I suppose when I say cheapo I use the valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil, blue bottle stuff. (It's cheaper than royal purple or yamalube)

wasn't sure if it was still a decent additive or not.
 
Not sure if he mentioned that one in the link on the first post. I know he did some additives there. Do a 'control + f' ok your web browser and put "Lucas" in the search box that pops up.
Search function makes that page a lot more useful.
 
Yup after doing some reading it seems that adding a zinc additive to the royal purple 20w50 actually decreased its performance in some areas. I think I will stick with the Valvoline straight and no additives. Very interesting reads thanks for posting!
 
Well thought this might be as good a place as any to post some spec's for correct oil as specified in the owners manual for a 1947 Farmall BN

oil spec's.png

That last sentence sure sets a high standard! Oil should not eat away at the engine!
 
This thing is unbelievable, he must test and research oil full time. I didn't read the whole thing but def got some good recommendations.
I'm thinking vavoline racing, or Castro gtx..
 
Prolong engine treatment added to some of the oils increases the psi and wear protection a considerable amount. I would be cautious to add any oil treatment due to clutch slipping.
Anyone ever try oil additives and what was the effect on the clutch?
 
"Yeah, I got on the Prolong bandwagon back then, too. Just for fun, I ran a normal carriage-fed cut on steel on my lathe, added a drop of Prolong as a cutting oil, and the bit stopped cutting, just slid over the steel. I was impressed."

lol nevermind on the prolong, just found this on here doing an "oil additive" search.
if it slips a drill bit it would probably slip a clutch.
 
Oilextreme seems to be amazing according to some of the tests in the article. I did a search and it does say it is used in motorcycles and growing a following in motocross and ama. It doesn't specify wet clutch. Anyone ever hear of it or try it.
 
Check out this guy's page:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
I've switched to this:
73. 20W50 Castrol GTX, API SN conventional = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm
from O'Reilley's 20w-50. GTX lasts a lot longer than the o'Really?s stuff; I had that stuff tapping out after one trip into Minneapolis and back. My gauge on how the oil is doing is how bad the shifting has degraded, and since late last summer, I can't tell any degradation on the GTX. Serious improvement.

Hi Ernie,
no matter what oil you choose, running it in an air cooled roller and ball bearing engine with cooking oil strainers for filters will play hell with it's longevity.
What I recommend is 1,000 mile oil changes.
 
Some last better than others. I finally just cooked the GTX that went in last summer. Granted, I've not been riding the bike all that much, but it's had a fair bit of use, and some bad carb tunes in that time. Compared to O'Reilly's house brand 20w-50, it's lasted a LONG time. That stuff would get cooked after one trip to work and back, but downtown Minneapolis gets things hot.

I'd estimate the GTX use at around 2,000 miles, vs 50 for what I was running before.
 
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