What have you done to your XS today?

I've been gradually reducing the torque value I use on my M6 fasteners over the years. I'm down to not much more than 70 in/lbs now. This is partly because the parts in question are so old but also because I have anti-seize on all the fasteners. So far this lower torque seems to be working fine, tight enough and sealing OK.
 
Started cleaning up my original brake disc. ordered yet more parts to help focus on areas other than cylinder head/ piston related as I'm afraid to call my machinist to see if he has C-19...even if not he's not feeling too well. Just stinking hot here, rained 3 times today so far. I saw foot prints of those little rubber pads that were deleted on the rotor center as well as a newer looking seal. So just going to disassemble, clean, grease prep for reassemble. Will start items I've been putting off like wheels, forks (have new progressive springs, seals, etc.) Stopped by the Motorcicle shop down the street. I a bit less that 1000 words I was quoted +- $400/wheel to re-spoke with Buchanan stainless (I can't find a prepackaged spoke deal for a '72 on their site). Too bad the spoke are so cruddy looking as the rear wheel is dead true with no bends/ deflection. $150 per wheel for spokes; $200/wheel labor pre tax at 7.5%. That's subject to bringing in the wheels to assess any offset, whatever. I'll be reading up again this time notes on spokes, outline procedure steps. early AM tomorrow. Sun up...slap at the engine covers with my abrasive fiber drill attachments (pre-shine). Just bought and old mulit-size spoke wrench for $14 using an Ebay $10 credit voucher :rock:. I have allot to do. I can't read Mailman's trials and tribulations late at nite....have bad dreams. Lol.
 
Spoking your own wheels isn't that difficult. Steel rims are easier than alloy ones, they true up easier. There's lots on the site here about it. If that old spoke wrench you got is a Rowe, you did good .....

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But, the bottoms of the spoke nipples have a screwdriver slot in them so you can do most of your initial tightening and truing with just a screwdriver. You'll just need and use the wrench for the final tweaking and tightening.
 
Last out on the SG, she didn't feel/sound right. So today I set the valves (most were loose and needed adjustment). Then hooked up the manometer and cranked her up. Fiddled(Fettled?) with the adjustments there until they were just right. She sounds good now. Next is adjusting the chain....
 
:banghead: Was posting the following in the 'Oil Leaks for Newbies' old thread I was reading on a different compuper..but, had site issues. OK, I got an engine seal 'kit' 10 piece that was supposed to be OEM/Ars. Not one Ars seal. Lots of "LYO"; PSE; and some seals with a little key' logo..Should I send these back to the vendor and find some old, overpriced Ars engine seals on Ebay? OR, might these seals be good to keep. I cleaned the under the chain side cover and found the clutch push rod seal was a pliable grey Ars seal looking to be installed properly as was the seal of the case halves on the 447 parts swap. I'm going to keep that seal in place but wanted an inventory of engine seals. That rod seal has some snugness on the rod, which needs some polishing. I cleaned that seal with some Deoxit D5 and q-tips. Bought some 400 grit paper and keep staring at my rear wheel across the room. oh, I did get a new 17 tooth ft. sprocket, lock tab and nut and a new 32 rear. Keep the 34. Toss the old 17.
 

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I took her out yesterday for the first ride since getting my Suzuki. I literally hadn’t even started it since buying the other bike. I hate to say it but it felt like a toy after putting 2,000 on the C90. Its crazy to think my XS seemed big and intimidating when I first got it. I still need to rebuild the carbs. It barely started for me.
 
Was reading 5twins spoke stuff, contemplating buying some Yamaha new,NOS spoke sets online after talking to a fellow @ Buchannan late Friday about stainless. Down a rabbit hole and was looking at rubber items for battery box etc....don't really need. Then, was fixing to clean oily (don't rust again goop) off the battery box and paint it when I said hey, I've never put the battery in the box. measurements looked right. had to wave some tools at the box and it jumped right in. no need for needless rubber bits as the batter ain't moving in the box.....as good as it gets see pic.
 

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Spoking your own wheels isn't that difficult. Steel rims are easier than alloy ones, they true up easier. There's lots on the site here about it. If that old spoke wrench you got is a Rowe, you did good .....

ws3IhXY.jpg


But, the bottoms of the spoke nipples have a screwdriver slot in them so you can do most of your initial tightening and truing with just a screwdriver. You'll just need and use the wrench for the final tweaking and tightening.

>> It came and fits the nipples....looks to make a good paper weight to boot. Now, get some spokes and rig an axle stand.
 
But just be aware that the Chinese are making knock-offs now. Be sure the wrench has the "Rowe" name stamped on it.
 
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For Now, a Keeper
But yesterday morning it would not start. This morning fine and I made several forays from the compound to see how reliable it might be. Got a total of about 50 km out of it, coming back home to check for ability to restart, it did. It will need some fettling, tachometer instrument is loose in its bucket, chain needs its first adjustment, carbs seem to cause a rough acceleration about 4000 rpm but smoothes some above that, I will reclean them and maybe shine up the outsides too to look nice.
Motor is otherwise nice, quiet and oil tight.
Got something else on the bench for a week or so, the 77 will wait a bit. Almost too hot to ride here anyway.
 
Kawasaki clutch lever, mirror went right in in place. It does require a spacer I made by eye didn't mesure. Probably between 3/4" -1 . Down above elbow at case. I love it, just feels better than original. I haven't rode enough yet to determine if it gives a fuz more separation.
Sorted carbs, mix screws are 2 heavy on left and 2 1/4 heavy on right. Still tweaking the mix screws. Now I get a battery I need badly a few more test rides then I'm going to tweak the timing.
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But just be aware that the Chinese are making knock-offs now. Be sure the wrench has the "Rowe" name stamped on it.

Mine has a bit more pantena than yours 5T. it's as cute as it can be...almost as cute as my little pliers and collection of vintage little screw drivers accumulated fro yrs of yard sales. I need to get with it this week and find some spokes. Leaning just stock plated original. Wary of Ebay games.
 

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Reminds me...I should have replaced my clutch springs when I ordered some Ars seals. I just sprayed the *rough* side of the seat pan after neutralizing the rust and acid dipping in metal prep. I used that Rustoleum protective semi-gloss that also has allot of zinc phosphate. Here's a pic of the surface of the battery box I just sprayed Gloss Black at the same time as the flip side of the seat pan. It has the same zinc phosphate coating,pre-paint, as the upper seat pan and the inside of my fuel tank.Mucho prep went into all that. However, I'm going to ruff up the bottom of the tray pan and fill in the pit marks. Gloss just accentuates those marks.
 

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