What is the best wiring diagram for a 1979 xs650 special?

Here is another simplified wiring diagram that applies to ALL ignition systems. Again it’s really quite simple and I still stand by just trying to rewire the bike yourself or buying a new harness. I agree to get a multimeter. Anyone will do. I’ve had the cheaper and more expensive ones from Advance auto and they both work great. I’d also highly suggest taking your carbs apart and thoroughly cleaning them. If it doesn’t have the factory airbox then order yourself a set of UNI pod filters.
 

Attachments

  • 64CD5720-A125-4214-AB11-17E3B3C25BC1.jpeg
    64CD5720-A125-4214-AB11-17E3B3C25BC1.jpeg
    145.8 KB · Views: 165
2F0 017*** is not on the chart i linked to.......

Your rear shock angle indicates the frame is a Special

Points ignition indicates the models is either a 78SE or 79SF.

Mag wheels with disk brake on the rear. indicates the model is a 78SE or 79SF

vin numbers in brackets indicate there is no information on the exact no of that model sold and it is the last number of that year/model, before the next model

78SE Vin no starts from 2F0 100101 up to (150000).

79SF Vin no starts from 2F0 150101 up to (200000)

79F standard has the shock angle more vertical and has spoke wheels with a drum rear brake.
79F Vin no starts from 2F0 020101 up to (100000).

78E standard has the shock angle more vertical and has spoke wheels with a rear drum brake.
78E Vin no starts from 2F0 000101 to 006141.......
There is also a possibility the 78E had a mid year change, (never had any confirmation or found a bike with a higher no, done a lot of research), and the Vin no carries on from that. 2F0 00651 to (020000). this last set of numbers could also be for other countries models and not for the US
 
Here is another simplified wiring diagram that applies to ALL ignition systems. Again it’s really quite simple and I still stand by just trying to rewire the bike yourself or buying a new harness. I agree to get a multimeter. Anyone will do. I’ve had the cheaper and more expensive ones from Advance auto and they both work great. I’d also highly suggest taking your carbs apart and thoroughly cleaning them. If it doesn’t have the factory airbox then order yourself a set of UNI pod filters.
Thank you I will look at this thoroughly when I am back from the shop!
 
Thank you I will look at this thoroughly when I am back from the shop!

You said you’re missing the kill switch? Have the handlebar switches been changed out from factory ones? Can you post a photo? Also check the flasher relay itself.

Also I’m just one person with an opinion so definitely take whatever approach makes the most sense to you. I’m only suggesting a rewire because the bike isn’t stock, has been messed with by who knows who and if you do it all yourself you’ll know everything about the bike. I rewired my entire bobber in 2 days.
 
You said you’re missing the kill switch? Have the handlebar switches been changed out from factory ones? Can you post a photo? Also check the flasher relay itself.

Also I’m just one person with an opinion so definitely take whatever approach makes the most sense to you. I’m only suggesting a rewire because the bike isn’t stock, has been messed with by who knows who and if you do it all yourself you’ll know everything about the bike. I rewired my entire bobber in 2 days.
I will definitely rewire it because it will be fun and I get to learn eveyrhing as you said. I'm at the shop now and do you know what size connectors I should get to attach to my blade fuses? For example 1/4 female connectors for what size fuse? Doesnt seem like it fits a mini fuse
 
What exactly do you mean by what size connectors? It would be the red female style connectors for 22-18awg but finding ones small enough to fit the mini fuses might be difficult. You may be better just grabbing 4 inline fuse holders and running it that way.

*edit* I just looked over your photos again. Those don’t look like the factory carbs either. Can you post a better photo of them?
 
My advice .........take a step back.........slow down.......do some more reading........work out what you need to do that suits how the bike is set up......ignition switch has been moved and you have a weird thing that looks like wiring, wrapped around the right front frame down tube.......what is that and what does it do.........until these things are sorted then your getting ahead of your self.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-harness-musings.18925/
 
My advice .........take a step back.........slow down.......do some more reading........work out what you need to do that suits how the bike is set up......ignition switch has been moved and you have a weird thing that looks like wiring, wrapped around the right front frame down tube.......what is that and what does it do.........until these things are sorted then your getting ahead of your self.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-harness-musings.18925/
Got it, but I did buy the fuses I needed and the multimeter. The 1/4" connectors go snug into the auto fuses you can find at auto zone. I learned that from another thread. Where do you recommend I start? You guys give me a place to start and I'll do it one thing at a time. Also, I noticed my killswitch is connected to the ignition key hole. I turn it to the right to turn it on, and another turn to the right to turn the whole bike off. Is that just like a kill switch or am I just turning the bike off but by turning the key again to the right instead of back to the left or is it a kill switch?

I want to pull up a wiring diagram but I still dont know if my model is a 78SE or 79SF I'm excited but this is important before I can go further.
 
What exactly do you mean by what size connectors? It would be the red female style connectors for 22-18awg but finding ones small enough to fit the mini fuses might be difficult. You may be better just grabbing 4 inline fuse holders and running it that way.

*edit* I just looked over your photos again. Those don’t look like the factory carbs either. Can you post a better photo of them?
I will post a picture of them again when I am back home in 15 minutes or so! Thank you. I've been trying to upload videos to make it easier for you guys but maybe they're too big in size?



650Skull, i will look at that harness link you sent and start there.
 
Continuity test al wiring........draw a diagram of each circuit to and from switches and note the wire colouring....you have to work out your loom
 
78SE and 79SF wiring diagrams are basicly the same.........just a couple of small differences due to the 78SE has an on/off, on the bars switch, for the headlight.

use either wiring diagram as you continuity test your loom and see what matches up.....note the differences and jot them down for safe keeping
 
78SE and 79SF wiring diagrams are basicly the same.........just a couple of small differences due to the 78SE has an on/off, on the bars switch, for the headlight.

use either wiring diagram as you continuity test your loom and see what matches up.....note the differences and jot them down for safe keeping
Thank you!! this will make my job a lot easier!
 
Continuity test al wiring........draw a diagram of each circuit to and from switches and note the wire colouring....you have to work out your loom
When I do this do I untape everything? I know someone told me to have the ignition and whoe bike off while doing this too correct?
 
What exactly do you mean by what size connectors? It would be the red female style connectors for 22-18awg but finding ones small enough to fit the mini fuses might be difficult. You may be better just grabbing 4 inline fuse holders and running it that way.

*edit* I just looked over your photos again. Those don’t look like the factory carbs either. Can you post a better photo of them?

Here are my carbs again Chris! Please let me know what's up with them. As I said the right one has a slight leak and today when I opened the reserve petcock I saw a constant leak from the left one too
16026384273225610939071434456885.jpg
1602638460506516400498126600853.jpg
16026384273225610939071434456885.jpg
1602638460506516400498126600853.jpg
 
I posted a link on "how to Continuity test" in post #10........also should find a how to in your muti-meter instructions.
 
Back
Top