Rusty spokes

Usually they're not chrome, only cad plated, and that's not nearly as durable of a finish. Just polishing will remove the remnants of it and then rust will set in. The first few wheels I re-did, I used the cad spokes from Mike's, due to cost. They looked really nice for a few years but eventually started turning gray. If I polish them more than a few times, I know I'll rub the cad plating off and they'll rust. So, I'm with Gary on this - get stainless spokes and be done with it. That's pretty much all I buy now.
 
Usually they're not chrome, only cad plated, and that's not nearly as durable of a finish. Just polishing will remove the remnants of it and then rust will set in. The first few wheels I re-did, I used the cad spokes from Mike's, due to cost. They looked really nice for a few years but eventually started turning gray. If I polish them more than a few times, I know I'll rub the cad plating off and they'll rust. So, I'm with Gary on this - get stainless spokes and be done with it. That's pretty much all I buy now.
I have SS spokes on the XS. This is fir my ‘78 DT175 that I just picked up. Was thinking about buying spokes and having a go at re-lacing the wheel. I guess it all depends on how bored I get this winter.
 
So nice. Are the old spokes SS or chrome plated? Trouble with mine is I believe the chrome is gone in lots of spots.

They were just the old factory cadmium plated, or whatever they plated the spokes with. In all fairness they were in very good condition to begin with. I did some pretty easy clean up on them.
 
Tried in the past, stripping the wheel cleaning and painting individually then re building, didn’t last.
Stripping the wheel, having the spokes Nickel plated rebuild, lasted a couple of years.
Stripping a wheel having the spokes bright zinc plated, quite cheap, still on test.
There is only one sure way and that’s Stainless, quite expensive but a once only job
My TX750 wheels are next on the list to do, Will I learn my own lesson?
 
Tried in the past, stripping the wheel cleaning and painting individually then re building, didn’t last.
Stripping the wheel, having the spokes Nickel plated rebuild, lasted a couple of years.
Stripping a wheel having the spokes bright zinc plated, quite cheap, still on test.
There is only one sure way and that’s Stainless, quite expensive but a once only job
My TX750 wheels are next on the list to do, Will I learn my own lesson?

Ho Rasputin,
try buying lanolin in Canada, eh?.
Only sold in drug stores in tiny bottles to ease nursing mothers' nipples.
Thought I could salvage a set of leather saddlebags with lanolin.
Decided I should use Dubbin instead..
 
Ho Rasputin,
try buying lanolin in Canada, eh?.
Only sold in drug stores in tiny bottles to ease nursing mothers' nipples.
Thought I could salvage a set of leather saddlebags with lanolin.
Decided I should use Dubbin instead..
There is another fantastic treatment for leather, it’s called Neatsfoot oil.
Rendered from the shin bones of cattle, has quite an aroma to it.
Be careful though when you park up because the Dogs will come from miles around to lick your panniers.
 
Lanolin is on ebay uk, 500g for £14. Not the nipple-ease, but the raw stuff.
That amount and another 500g of beeswax will give me enough leather treatment for a couple decades.
 
2b-646fc5a86daa_1.0fc4fd3913a4c0ceac315096aee070f1.jpg

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dax-100-...=sem&msclkid=7b58b8018bb21866ffc4e7bcf2e0153d
 
Have never used lanolin oil but that looks a great product! Does that mean if I treat my little Honda with lanolin all over I'll be able to use it on salty winter roads without fear of it turning into an orange rusty wreck overnight?

Yes it would...........

True story..........I bought an old HJ Landcruiser for island work in the Torris Straits. (Islands between the Aus mainland and Papua new Guinea),
It took 3 days to get to the island on a barge. Due to access and the tides the barge that week was the smaller of the 2 that serviced the area. On the day the barge arrived the sea was a quite rough, the salt spray to was completely washing over the Landcruiser...........Before i put it on the barge i sprayed the ute inside and out covering every inch of the vehicle with lanotec lanolinn oil, using a spray bottle. Took about 3 liters of a 5 liter container.

As soon as i git the ute off the barge i washed it with water, no rubbing with a cloth or such, just rinsed the ute all over to wash the salt spray off it. Being an old ute the paint in places had been rubbed down to the metal.............I was on the island for 8 months and in that time there was only one spot where the rust from the sea spay caused the metal to rust. It was on the metal rack i had on the back of the ute. A small area where i had missed when i initially sprayed it and it was very aggressive......

Other that that one spot and being on the island, (100 acre in size so plenty of salt in the air), for 8 months there was no hint of rust.

Dirt sticks to it because it is sticky, If some is sprayed on a cloth then a regular wipe down will remove any dirt and leave it as good as new. It works as a de-greaser, wet start, can be used on electrical wiring to dissipate water and stop corrosion and on paint work with out damage. Rubber, not so much, especially if it is old the rubber will rub off and smear. New rubber can be wiped down with a damp cloth.

It can be used as an anti foul on boats

In the old wild west days it would have been sold by these snake oil guys to cure hemorrhoids..........actually it might.

I don't understand why this isn't available overseas
 
Living up here in Michigan where winter road salt will eat the frame right out from underneath ya, I coat my vehicles with this lanolin based product 2x a year. They make a kit for undercoating where you can snake up through all the frame holes and get inside doors, etc. They sell it in 55 gallon drums to military for rust proofing purposes.
https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
 
Living up here in Michigan where winter road salt will eat the frame right out from underneath ya, I coat my vehicles with this lanolin based product 2x a year. They make a kit for undercoating where you can snake up through all the frame holes and get inside doors, etc. They sell it in 55 gallon drums to military for rust proofing purposes.
https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/

I have been posting about Lanolin oil since before this site was up an running.........This is the first i have heard about another type from the US. I think there is a bit of editorial license when reading about their product. Does everything that Lanotec lanolin oil does, except there is no petroleum additives in the lanotec products. And i did find that the lanolin oil will dissolve the rustolin product on the floor, under the seat of my car, when i was giving it a rust proofing
 
Living up here in Michigan where winter road salt will eat the frame right out from underneath ya, I coat my vehicles with this lanolin based product 2x a year. They make a kit for undercoating where you can snake up through all the frame holes and get inside doors, etc. They sell it in 55 gallon drums to military for rust proofing purposes.
https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
Good point. I forgot about Fluid Film. I was going to get my truck sprayed before winter hit hard. I have some of that. Maybe spray it on a rag and wipe the spokes down.
 
Lanotec, I think that's the right stuff, is available here in the UK. They sell a 5 litre bottle of lanolin oil, a spray tube attachment and 500 ml of lanolin grease for about £60. I'm thinking . . .
 

Hi Gary,
according to the Detective Novel "Murder must advertise"
if your package says "made from butter" it must have more butter in it than anything else.
if it says "made with butter'' the merest hint of butter will do.
So how much 100% lanolin is in a jar of DAX, eh?
 
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