Timing with a pamco.

Your earlier problem lead me to believe that the wire for your PMA could be compromised, you may want to check there. Sounds like it is running only off the battery.
Take a gander behind the rotor, this wire should be tucked behind the rotor mount.
Your symptoms of only being able to get to 3000 RPM lead me to believe it is a connection or ground wire to your charging system.

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I will have a closer look a bit later this month, but do these timing markings make sense on my ‘76? It’s a photo from the po. I can look up close when I remove the side cover to replace the clutch rod.
 
Don't trust any timing marks, verify. MANY have installed PMA rotors using no key,, so the possibility always exists that the rotor has moved (spun a bit) on the crank taper.

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Bosco, the mark on your rotor labeled "TDC" shouldn't be marked at all. It's just an "indicator" or alignment mark that you line up with the labeled ones below it on your cover. To check them, put the motor at TDC and see if the rotor mark aligns with the TDC case mark. I'm not sure how the P.O. determined where to put the "F" mark, so it may or may not be correct. What I don't see is a full advance mark. That's an important one so you can make sure you're not running the timing too advanced. Hugh's Handbuilt has a nice little timing sticker that shows all 3 marks. I think he sells them for next to nothing, or he may even give them away. You might want to contact him .....

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It will most likely require you to make a new mark on your rotor, but that's no big deal. Just accurately find TDC and make the new mark.
 
K thx 5twins. I’ll see if I can get that sticker. When shooting this with the timing light, which mark on the rotor? The one incorrectly marked as TDC on my engine? Looks like a small raised line below the scribed mark.
 
As it sits now, yes, you would use that scribed line marked "TDC" on your rotor as your "pointer". At idle, it should align with the "F" mark on your case. But, you don't know for sure if that "F" mark is correct, in the exact right spot. It's supposed to be made at 15° BTDC, the idle timing spec. It's easy enough to find and make the TDC mark accurately but for that "F" mark, you need a degree wheel. Or, assume Hugh did all that when he made his sticker and accept it's markings as correct.
 
As it sits now, yes, you would use that scribed line marked "TDC" on your rotor as your "pointer". At idle, it should align with the "F" mark on your case. But, you don't know for sure if that "F" mark is correct, in the exact right spot. It's supposed to be made at 15° BTDC, the idle timing spec. It's easy enough to find and make the TDC mark accurately but for that "F" mark, you need a degree wheel. Or, assume Hugh did all that when he made his sticker and accept it's markings as correct.
Ok I think I get it. Already sent a request to buy a stickers from Hugh’s. If that fails I’ll use a degree wheel to validate the timing marks. Always something to do with the bike. Thx for your input.
 
OK that looks like a genuine Pamco e advance all in one
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so you do not have a mechanical advance under the RH cover.
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You would need to add one to get a Tyronics set up to to work or you could consider one of the other ignitions that have electronic advance like the Boyer mentioned above.
Your Pamco board looks like it got hot on the RH side. Not sure what might have caused that or if it's related to it dying.
I think it will be a good idea to do a basic system check up on your charging, make sure everything is functioning as it should.
 
I spoke with Gina from Boyer, and she suggested the KIT00303 which comes with the mini dual output coil

I am still going to try to ride the bike a bit more once riding season is back here in a few more monthes, but keep this idea on the back burner

thank you all again for your help!
 
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