What caught my eye was the Z1 in the background
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Homemade and Unique Tools
What caught my eye was the Z1 in the background
Sprocket holding tool.
I love the simplicity of that design!
Well, I was at it again this past summer with my little welder, lol. I had this 4'- 6" long length of scrap I-beam, actually it's an H-beam. An H-beam differs from an I-beam in that the top and bottom flanges are parallel to one another and not tapered .....
This makes it ideal for clamping stuff to it. Even though it was just laying loose atop my scrap metal pile, I often did just that, clamping pieces of metal to it for drilling, cutting, and/or grinding. It was very handy for this but obviously not that stable just sitting there loose on top of the scrap pile, lol. So, I decided to turn it into a couple of small, heavy duty (very heavy duty as it turned out) saw horses. First step was to cut the beam in half, giving me two shorter ones about 27" long .....
With the leg assemblies installed, the horses sit about 17.5" high .....
The leg assemblies just slide on the ends of the beams and are held in place by set bolts .....
The set bolts were turned into "T'' bolts by welding a strip of plate across the tops, so they can be loosened and tightened by hand .....
I wanted the legs to come off so I could easily break them down for transport. They turned out great and I've been using the heck out of them, lol.
This makes it ideal for clamping stuff to it. Even though it was just laying loose atop my scrap metal pile, I often did just that, clamping pieces of metal to it for drilling, cutting, and/or grinding. It was very handy for this but obviously not that stable just sitting there loose on top of the scrap pile, lol. So, I decided to turn it into a couple of small, heavy duty (very heavy duty as it turned out) saw horses. First step was to cut the beam in half, giving me two shorter ones about 27" long .....
With the leg assemblies installed, the horses sit about 17.5" high .....
The leg assemblies just slide on the ends of the beams and are held in place by set bolts .....
The set bolts were turned into "T'' bolts by welding a strip of plate across the tops, so they can be loosened and tightened by hand .....
I wanted the legs to come off so I could easily break them down for transport. They turned out great and I've been using the heck out of them, lol.
Well, I was at it again this past summer with my little welder, lol. I had this 4'- 6" long length of scrap I-beam, actually it's an H-beam. An H-beam differs from an I-beam in that the top and bottom flanges are parallel to one another and not tapered .....
This makes it ideal for clamping stuff to it. Even though it was just laying loose atop my scrap metal pile, I often did just that, clamping pieces of metal to it for drilling, cutting, and/or grinding. It was very handy for this but obviously not that stable just sitting there loose on top of the scrap pile, lol. So, I decided to turn it into a couple of small, heavy duty (very heavy duty as it turned out) saw horses. First step was to cut the beam in half, giving me two shorter ones about 27" long .....
With the leg assemblies installed, the horses sit about 17.5" high .....
The leg assemblies just slide on the ends of the beams and are held in place by set bolts .....
The set bolts were turned into "T'' bolts by welding a strip of plate across the tops, so they can be loosened and tightened by hand .....
I wanted the legs to come off so I could easily break them down for transport. They turned out great and I've been using the heck out of them, lol.
Well those just might be the nicest saw horses I’ve ever seen! Up to any task, and I dare say the wind won’t knock em over!
Norton7d
XS650 Junkie
Iron Horses
This is the tool I made for removing stuck oil screen covers.
Here it is in use.
The tool consists of a piece of hardwood salvaged from a chair rail. The studs are full-diameter M6 shanks cut from really long M6 bolts. The wood started splitting when I used it on a particularly stuck-on cover, so I added the three wood screws for reinforcement.
It's surprising how often these covers are stuck on bikes that weren't maintained. Or, when owners get heavy-handed with gasket cement, and it oozes all over. I now routinely use this tool on any cover that doesn't just fall out by itself.
Well, I was at it again this past summer with my little welder, lol. I had this 4'- 6" long length of scrap I-beam, actually it's an H-beam. An H-beam differs from an I-beam in that the top and bottom flanges are parallel to one another and not tapered .....
This makes it ideal for clamping stuff to it. Even though it was just laying loose atop my scrap metal pile, I often did just that, clamping pieces of metal to it for drilling, cutting, and/or grinding. It was very handy for this but obviously not that stable just sitting there loose on top of the scrap pile, lol. So, I decided to turn it into a couple of small, heavy duty (very heavy duty as it turned out) saw horses. First step was to cut the beam in half, giving me two shorter ones about 27" long .....
With the leg assemblies installed, the horses sit about 17.5" high .....
The leg assemblies just slide on the ends of the beams and are held in place by set bolts .....
The set bolts were turned into "T'' bolts by welding a strip of plate across the tops, so they can be loosened and tightened by hand .....
I wanted the legs to come off so I could easily break them down for transport. They turned out great and I've been using the heck out of them, lol.
These look great 5T - I'll take a set!
How much?
or the industrial version; pins sized to fit the head recess diameter.
cuz the northern butchers are not beyond double gluing that SOB with aviation gasket sealer.
That tool is now multi use, the other end has pins to undo Lockheed disc brake caliper threaded covers.
Not home made but these are awsome. The quick attach mandrel holds the blade with a spring latch so you would really have to try to break a blade, unlike the 1" wheels that bust constantly.
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Mandrel and 5 blades about $15-20
Mandrel and 5 blades about $15-20
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Here's a couple pics showing the frame of the truing stand and it in use. Made mostly with 1" DOM, a piece of hex bored for bearings, 15mm linear bearing shaft, aluminum for the cones and a piece of 1/4" steel to hold a mag base. Got the idea for single sided from the motionpro stand, but skipped out of the folding bit.
All I can say is some of you people do a better job fabricating tools than what some of the so called custom bike builders do on their builds!
Great idea! It looks very handy.
Yankee Stanley Ratchet 130B Bits holder
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee_screwdriver
Not sure how common they are and there are bits holders available to buy
the last ratchet i bought costed 1 $ at a flea market in it was a flat screw driver bit.
Cut that one to keep the upper end and fit in the ratchet.
and tried to weld on a 1/4 inch bits holder. for a more modern ratchet
https://www.biltema.se/en-se/tools/hand-tools/bits/bits-accessories/bitshylsa-2000016648
Neither of the parts are strictly speaking weldable and the hand held welding shield i got hold on was so dark I could barely see anything
So it could have been better. Cant guarantee it will hold
I sometimes use them .. say the left engine cover .. loose the allen bolts with something else and then pump them out.
I don't use that much battery powered tools
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yankee_screwdriver
Not sure how common they are and there are bits holders available to buy
the last ratchet i bought costed 1 $ at a flea market in it was a flat screw driver bit.
Cut that one to keep the upper end and fit in the ratchet.
and tried to weld on a 1/4 inch bits holder. for a more modern ratchet
https://www.biltema.se/en-se/tools/hand-tools/bits/bits-accessories/bitshylsa-2000016648
Neither of the parts are strictly speaking weldable and the hand held welding shield i got hold on was so dark I could barely see anything
So it could have been better. Cant guarantee it will hold
I sometimes use them .. say the left engine cover .. loose the allen bolts with something else and then pump them out.
I don't use that much battery powered tools
I've been wanting to make this up for a few years now and finally got around to it. It's a jig to hold and clamp my front disc drilling pattern to a disc. I needed a way to apply multiple clamps but be able to remove one at a time to punch the holes it covered without fear of the pattern moving or shifting on me. Here's what I came up with, basically an octagon shaped piece of 3/4" plywood mounted to 2 x 4's and 2x 6's with 4 clamp slots .....
I drew the clamp slots out on top to help with laying the thing out and with the assembly .....
There is also a 1/2" piece of plywood attached to the bottom to help stiffen things and help hold the whole thing together. All the wood was both nailed and glued.
The plywood octagon is sized just under 298mm, the diameter of one of our front discs, and by installing the side tabs just right, a standard front disc drops right in perfectly .....
Even though I cut it close, it turns out my sheet metal pattern was a bit oversized. I had to file the sides a bit to get it to drop in but before I did, I tried it in multiple positions to find the best one, the one that centered the holes on the disc side to side the best. I then marked the pattern and one of the side tabs with alignment marks .....
The pattern will only drop down into the jig if the marks are aligned .....
So, here's how it works - place the disc and pattern in the jig and install the 4 clamps .....
Then, center punch up to a clamp, remove it, center punch the holes it was covering, re-install it and continue center punching up to the next clamp. With one clamp removed, there are still 3 in place holding the disc and pattern together, so no worries about it shifting .....
I drew the clamp slots out on top to help with laying the thing out and with the assembly .....
There is also a 1/2" piece of plywood attached to the bottom to help stiffen things and help hold the whole thing together. All the wood was both nailed and glued.
The plywood octagon is sized just under 298mm, the diameter of one of our front discs, and by installing the side tabs just right, a standard front disc drops right in perfectly .....
Even though I cut it close, it turns out my sheet metal pattern was a bit oversized. I had to file the sides a bit to get it to drop in but before I did, I tried it in multiple positions to find the best one, the one that centered the holes on the disc side to side the best. I then marked the pattern and one of the side tabs with alignment marks .....
The pattern will only drop down into the jig if the marks are aligned .....
So, here's how it works - place the disc and pattern in the jig and install the 4 clamps .....
Then, center punch up to a clamp, remove it, center punch the holes it was covering, re-install it and continue center punching up to the next clamp. With one clamp removed, there are still 3 in place holding the disc and pattern together, so no worries about it shifting .....
When I built my little "flip" stand several years back, I got the idea that I might be able to split the cases using the power of hydraulics by placing a bottle jack at the front. All I'd need is a plate of some sort to attach to the motor stand on top .....
Well, I finally got around to making the plate .....
It has brackets on it so it locks onto the engine stand at the front and rear .....
Since the bottle jack will only lift and separate the front of the cases, I made the plate long enough so I could use a big rubber mallet at the rear to separate the back end .....
So, here it is all set up and ready to go .....
A couple of pumps on the bottle jack and ..... pop!! Success!! .....
Then a few good whacks with the rubber mallet upward on the overhanging plate at the rear, and it's a done deal .....
Wow, this was too easy, lol.
Well, I finally got around to making the plate .....
It has brackets on it so it locks onto the engine stand at the front and rear .....
Since the bottle jack will only lift and separate the front of the cases, I made the plate long enough so I could use a big rubber mallet at the rear to separate the back end .....
So, here it is all set up and ready to go .....
A couple of pumps on the bottle jack and ..... pop!! Success!! .....
Then a few good whacks with the rubber mallet upward on the overhanging plate at the rear, and it's a done deal .....
Wow, this was too easy, lol.
When I built my little "flip" stand several years back, I got the idea that I might be able to split the cases using the power of hydraulics by placing a bottle jack at the front. All I'd need is a plate of some sort to attach to the motor stand on top .....
Well, I finally got around to making the plate .....
It has brackets on it so it locks onto the engine stand at the front and rear .....
Since the bottle jack will only lift and separate the front of the cases, I made the plate long enough so I could use a big rubber mallet at the rear to separate the back end .....
So, here it is all set up and ready to go .....
A couple of pumps on the bottle jack and ..... pop!! Success!! .....
Then a few good whacks with the rubber mallet upward on the overhanging plate at the rear, and it's a done deal .....
Wow, this was too easy, lol.
Very clever bit of engineering there 5T ! I like it!
Yes, it worked out very well. Separating these cases can be a chore because even after removing all the fasteners, they're still "glued" together with gasket sealer. There's nowhere good really to pry or pound against. This made short work of the job, lol.
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