Just thinkin' out loud, when you pull that tape off, you might find the original wire and terminal still intact. If it is, you can get the correct battery and return it to original with little effort. That would be a big win. 
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An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild
- Thread starter MarieKaramazov
- Start date
Important!!! to prevent welding with the battery 
, always.... always remove the ground (Negative) terminal first and install it last.... always. That breaks the circuit in case you short the positive side to ground. Open circuit means no sparks. 
, always.... always remove the ground (Negative) terminal first and install it last.... always. That breaks the circuit in case you short the positive side to ground. Open circuit means no sparks.
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Yes, I think there were just extensions added to the original battery cables. With the proper battery and those extensions removed, those original cables should hook back up fine. Here's a stock set-up, well, semi-stock. My negative lead isn't original and my battery strap is homemade out of leather .....
ETX14 (no L) there it is.. get the "L" next time.. A Deka ETX14L wrapped once in gorilla tape, supported underneath, front, rear, results in a very sturdy, vibration resistant fit. (220 CCA). If it is, you can get the correct battery and return it to original with little effort. That would be a big win.
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ETX15L is the correct battery. That's what I have and it requires no modification. Mine is a Deka AGM, 5 years old.ETX14 (no L) there it is.. get the "L" next time.. A Deka ETX14L wrapped once in gorilla tape, supported underneath, front, rear, results in a very sturdy, vibration resistant fit. (220 CCA)
Curious as to how many CCA's is the ETX15L ?
Edit.. found it. 220 CCA as well.
Best choice
Edit.. found it. 220 CCA as well.
Best choice
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I was going to grab a picture of it in the garage, but I ran out there without my smartphone. Yuasa is my other choice, also a quality product made in Pennsylvania.Curious as to how many CCA's is the ETX15L ?
Edit.. found it. 220 CCA as well.
Best choice
Yuasa, Top O the Line. I've bought two in the past but those are up over $100 Benjamin now..
Found this... Battery equilivants.com. It has charts that show batt size, cross references (incomplete) and whether the pos terminal is on the left or right.
"nuther way to skin a cat battery. Amazon lets you save your vehicles.... then tells you what's compatible. Read the reviews, make some calls, go get the one you want at your local parts store... or order from Amazon. I find it handy for just being able to read others thoughts on an item even if I don't order from them. Sort through 'em by price or cust. reviews.
Might be of general interest as a coping strategy.
Here in Europe exist some large chains that has the purchasing power to get OK or good
Products at competitive prices. And have staff that can evaluate what they buy. Know how.
Some even have stores all over Europe.
LA is a big place so there should be the possibility to buy over the counter from one such company
if freight cost is an issue.
I usually tend to buy at those large known vendors Who has been around for many years.
And are satisfied with what i get ..Price and Quality is OK
Only thing I can remember went wrong was a cheap racing oil that did not work at higher temperature
for a sports bike. But the same can happen if you do the googling and thinking yourself.
Here in Europe exist some large chains that has the purchasing power to get OK or good
Products at competitive prices. And have staff that can evaluate what they buy. Know how.
Some even have stores all over Europe.
LA is a big place so there should be the possibility to buy over the counter from one such company
if freight cost is an issue.
I usually tend to buy at those large known vendors Who has been around for many years.
And are satisfied with what i get ..Price and Quality is OK
Only thing I can remember went wrong was a cheap racing oil that did not work at higher temperature
for a sports bike. But the same can happen if you do the googling and thinking yourself.
MarieKaramazov
XS650 Addict
@Jim yeah amazon is good that way, I just haven't been seeing many of the brands they're listing at nearby stores and was hoping for an "in hand" option. And if it takes me another day to call and find and go get it, I might as well order online and get at the other stuff now. Want to get to the stator/rotor situation before dark too.
So here's what's under that tape:
right (pos)
left (neg)
The extra wire runs to the battery tender adapter.
These original? Looks like it might be...only thing that looks off to me is the gap in the rings, but perhaps it's designed that way.
Ran the bike and warmed it up for about 2 min (idle still not stable w/o choke at that point). Hope that's enough to check for any marker rubbings later
EDIT: if I take the old battery to the store and it passes volt and load test, there's nothing else that can be secretly wrong with it that we/they can't (and haven’t already) test for, correct?
And I imagine I'm okay running it "backwards" as long as I get and switch to heavier gauge wire to reach terminals? Seems like it shouldn't matter as long as it reaches.
So here's what's under that tape:
right (pos)
left (neg)
The extra wire runs to the battery tender adapter.
These original? Looks like it might be...only thing that looks off to me is the gap in the rings, but perhaps it's designed that way.
Ran the bike and warmed it up for about 2 min (idle still not stable w/o choke at that point). Hope that's enough to check for any marker rubbings later
EDIT: if I take the old battery to the store and it passes volt and load test, there's nothing else that can be secretly wrong with it that we/they can't (and haven’t already) test for, correct?
And I imagine I'm okay running it "backwards" as long as I get and switch to heavier gauge wire to reach terminals? Seems like it shouldn't matter as long as it reaches.
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Yes, the heavy short battery cables are originals. Somebody clipped the rings so you could slide the connection on and off without completely taking the bolt out. That shouldn't hurt anything and they should still be fine. Here's a better pic from my '83 using original cables. Don't mind the little jumper wires, they're part of the RLU elimination process .....
I noticed looking at the pic you posted that the frame connection end of your negative battery cable looks a bit crusty. This is like the main ground connection for the bike's whole power system so you want it clean and tight. I use that copper anti-seize I mentioned earlier on the bolt and the terminals it fastens to keep the connection corrosion-free .....
You'll notice a second wire connected there. That's the negative wire from my battery tender harness. Having just a single wire connecting to the battery itself makes removing and installing much easier. And speaking of the battery connections, you should coat them with something to ward off corrosion as well. The old stand-by, which I've been using for many, many, many years on all my vehicle's battery terminals is plain old Vaseline.
I noticed looking at the pic you posted that the frame connection end of your negative battery cable looks a bit crusty. This is like the main ground connection for the bike's whole power system so you want it clean and tight. I use that copper anti-seize I mentioned earlier on the bolt and the terminals it fastens to keep the connection corrosion-free .....
You'll notice a second wire connected there. That's the negative wire from my battery tender harness. Having just a single wire connecting to the battery itself makes removing and installing much easier. And speaking of the battery connections, you should coat them with something to ward off corrosion as well. The old stand-by, which I've been using for many, many, many years on all my vehicle's battery terminals is plain old Vaseline.
Yes, they're original... no, not supposed to have the gap. Looks like your PO was a real genius.
It won't hurt anything, they'll work fine like that... I just don't like seeing stuff (needlessly) hacked up. Maybe... maybe not. We're dealing with a small clearance here... I'd feel better with a 10-20 min warmup/ride to ensure the rotor's warm and expanded as much as it'll get.
It's not a guarantee, but I generally tend to trust one that's passed all the tests.
Yeah, won't hurt anything as long as you get the larger gauge wire. In case you haven't learned about wiring yet, wire gauges are backwards (as are about all gauge standards).... the smaller the number, the larger the wire diameter.
Bulk heavy battery cable (and the crimp ends) isn't cheap. Since you're planning on getting the right battery soon, I don't see making up new longer cables as being very cost effective. You'd only get a few days use out of them. I think I'd just limp along with what you've got since a new correct battery is coming soon.
MarieKaramazov
XS650 Addict
Alright. Running out of time to go to store and life reasons and $ so ordered batt online after all. Went with the chrome one @5twins rec'd below. Best price, dimensions and specs look fine (except it's 12ah opposed to 14) . Got it from that website. Almost got from amazon so I could get it faster but said they don't deliver that item to my area... also said it didn't fit my bike for some reason, but I've seen it do that on things that I know fit. Clearly it fits 5Twins' bike that's the same
I figure I should be okay running current setup until the new batt arrives. If I solve low idle with carbs before, great, then when new one arrives (which may solve my hard starting issue, and idle if carbs weren't the answer) I can use the old one as a backup battery and I have time to take that one for a load test at my leisure.
Side note, still smelling gas when I've just been standing there working on the battery stuff... Not crazy overwhelming, but breezes of a clear gas smell--definitely.
I figure I should be okay running current setup until the new batt arrives. If I solve low idle with carbs before, great, then when new one arrives (which may solve my hard starting issue, and idle if carbs weren't the answer) I can use the old one as a backup battery and I have time to take that one for a load test at my leisure.
Got it. I'm gonna throw it back together, get some more gas in and zip it around nearby. Fingers crossed I make it back. Side note, it's okay to mix 87 and 89 grade if you need to, yes?
I have not learned about wiring yet, but I did somehow know that about wire size gauges
Side note, still smelling gas when I've just been standing there working on the battery stuff... Not crazy overwhelming, but breezes of a clear gas smell--definitely.
When you get the new battery and are making the new connections, you can move the positive wire terminal for your battery tender off the positive battery post as well. If you trace that short original positive battery cable down under the right side cover (blue arrow), you'll find it connected to your starter solenoid (blue "X") .....
You can attach the positive wire terminal from your battery tender plug (red arrows) there.
You can attach the positive wire terminal from your battery tender plug (red arrows) there.
I'm betting that Deka ETX14 battery is still strong. Likely the connections including that dirty ground AND the starter connection way under on the starter are suspect for weak battery symptoms?
Regardless, battery fitment is also a topic here. That ETX14 was too wide for the original battery rubber box, so it's gone.. a new battery of original dimensions will need either the original rubber box or a modified battery surround of sorts. All this helps keep the battery from shaking around from say, speed bumps etc or a tip over.
I always secure batteries in a manner that helps reduce shaking or jarring.
Regardless, battery fitment is also a topic here. That ETX14 was too wide for the original battery rubber box, so it's gone.. a new battery of original dimensions will need either the original rubber box or a modified battery surround of sorts. All this helps keep the battery from shaking around from say, speed bumps etc or a tip over.
I always secure batteries in a manner that helps reduce shaking or jarring.
If you don't have a Voltmeter .
Assuming you charge the battery before the ride.
Turn on the lights and observe how bright it is at home
If in worst case it stalls again watch the lights if they are less bright.
And why not again if successfully back home.
Perhaps a difference in brightness can be seen when revving up.
Indicating charging is doing something
Also notice if any misfiring happens .And if that happens when trying to give gas.
I would assume no choke at all is needed when warm after a couple of minutes.
And a smell of petrol . Can be Normal Or at least wont hurt.
If careful connecting and disconnecting and so no sparks.
Assuming you charge the battery before the ride.
Turn on the lights and observe how bright it is at home
If in worst case it stalls again watch the lights if they are less bright.
And why not again if successfully back home.
Perhaps a difference in brightness can be seen when revving up.
Indicating charging is doing something
Also notice if any misfiring happens .And if that happens when trying to give gas.
I would assume no choke at all is needed when warm after a couple of minutes.
And a smell of petrol . Can be Normal Or at least wont hurt.
If careful connecting and disconnecting and so no sparks.
I'd highly recommend getting a voltmeter to monitor your battery and charging system. I already had one, but I also bought a USB charger for my phone that comes with a built in voltmeter. 16 bucks on Ebay. It's a handlebar mount and so far, it's held up well.
