Crabby's Build

[CrabbyCustoms]

Unfortunately I forgot to install the new Push Rod Bushing before I sealed up the crankcase.

I don't really want to remove the new push rod seal that I just installed so I was just going to put in the new 1 piece push rod without changing the bushing, thinking I'll leave it till next time the seal starts to leak again.

However when I look into/through the drive axle I can't see the existing bushing? Does anyone know if the bushing is visible to the naked eye?

When installing the 1 piece rod is it just a matter of 1 ball bearing into the shaft, then slide the rod in and done?

Thanks!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

I had a productive 2 days. I removed the rocker arm shafts with a puller tool and cleaned out the last of the media. I managed to eradicate it. I know for the next engine the proper way to approach it. From the start tear the whole engine apart then blast the individual parts. I know where all of the oil passages are now and I can pretty much block them all plus cleaning them was easy. All hail brake cleaner. The shafts were really tough to get out and in.

- I cleaned the shafts and arms.
-I measured the specs on them
-installed the rocker arms with the puller tool and it really helped to line up and get started into the bore, as well I used a hammer on it, great tool but a piece of 6mm rod and a nut would do the same thing. The shafts were really tough to get out and in so I'm glad I bought it.

I lapped the valves. I found some paste that worked well, it had a multiple grits.
My palms were so sore by the 4th valve that i could only use my fingers to spin it.

I never figured out if i had a push rod bushing or not? so I'm saving the seal, I put in a one piece rod, it seems to have almost no movement side to side so I'll save the bushing till next time.

I'll also put on my foot controls. I still have to tweek the rear brake and make a shifter.

Tomorrow i'm installing the valves.

Enjoy your evening.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Early mornings the last 2 days as I try to complete the top end. I made a few screw ups today that slowed the process.

-I started by cleaning the valve springs. Checking the specs.
-Then using my cheap ebay compressor I installed the valves.
-My cam chain is continuous so I removed the brace on the base of my cam tensioner arm by drilling the mount.
-Installed the tensioner arm, I used Jim's idea of taping the screws to the driver, really helped. Jim's your top end write up was extremely helpful, many great tips. -Also Jim's taping the pistons idea and the blocks of wood (although I made them too short), really helped. My piston ring tool is garbage, I need to invest is something better for next time.

Unfortunately I failed to notice that the Tensioner arm wasn't in the cylinder properly! I was so excited as I removed the wood thinking that I hadn't screwed up for a change. Doh!

It all went downhill from here. I thought I could lift the cylinder slightly but popped the cylinder off! Thanks to Mailman for the popsicle trick, it worked.
Then I thought that I had the tensioner arm in incorrect as It was rubbing inside the cylinder thankfully 5Twins set me straight. I should have quit right here for the day but I attempted to install the cam tensioner, the spec sheet says torque to 15pds for the cam tensioner and I snapped the bolt, it's obviously referring to another component.

Tomorrow I will attempt to drill out the broken bolt, the replacement bolt will take 10days to arrive, just when I think it's almost done....

Thanks Jim I hate to think what today would have been like if I didn't have your info for reference.

 

[Jim]

the replacement bolt will take 10days to arrive

If you're referring to the chain guide bolt (last pic), you should be able to pick up that bolt at the hardware store... there's nothing special about it.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

If you're referring to the chain guide bolt (last pic), you should be able to pick up that bolt at the hardware store... there's nothing special about it.

That's great news. I just assume everything is so specific. I'm looking forward to not being such a rookie.

 

[Jim]

I'm looking forward to not being such a rookie.

Just takes practice.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Got a fair bit done over the last week.
Top end is done up. Everything went together nicely.
Installed the clutch basket with new fibre disks.
Cleaned the clutch actuator and removed the oil pump.
Polished the side covers. I bought a shiny stator cover insert but didn't really like the look so I refinished the old insert and tried for a 2 tone look on the cover finish.

I'm stumped on the kickstarter though as I'm not sure how it actually works? When I install It it seems to be engaged on the other gear but then I twist the kick and it disengages? Isn't this opposite of whats supposed to happen? I'm going to post a video below, if you wouldn't mind setting me straight on what i'm doing wrong?

Thanks!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

https://youtu.be/uO2-bK310pM

 

[Raymond]

Lovely job cleaning up those outer cases, good decision to go back to the original stator cover IMO.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Lovely job cleaning up those outer cases, good decision to go back to the original stator cover IMO.

Thanks Raymond. Any chance you could watch the video and give me your opinion. I appreciate it. Once I figure out the Kick starter I can button it all up.

 

[Downeaster]

You're turning it the wrong way. When you kick it, the shaft will turn counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise for our Northern Neighbors)

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

You're turning it the wrong way. When you kick it, the shaft will turn counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise for our Northern Neighbors)

Oh! So I have it set correctly? Thanks so much for your response.

 

[Downeaster]

Oh! So I have it set correctly? Thanks so much for your response.

I'm not 100% sure it's seated all the way into the case, but otherwise, yes it appears to be installed correctly.

 

[rsor]

Would the cases even go on, if it was not seated properly?

 

[Downeaster]

Would the cases even go on, if it was not seated properly?

Most likely the outer cover wouldn't seat properly, there'd be a gap at the rear around the kickstart shaft. It's important not to force things for just that reason. If it's not seating all the way against the gasket with a little effort, double check that the kickstart shaft is seated all the way.

BTDT...

 

[rsor]

That sure sounds like good advice to me.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Most likely the outer cover wouldn't seat properly, there'd be a gap at the rear around the kickstart shaft. It's important not to force things for just that reason. If it's not seating all the way against the gasket with a little effort, double check that the kickstart shaft is seated all the way.

BTDT...

Good to know, thanks!

 

[Downeaster]

Another tip: Lube the lip on the kickstart shaft seal in the cover with a little oil before installing the cover. It's normal for that seal to drag a little on the shaft as it slides over the kickstart shaft and that can be mistaken for other interference.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

There's a hollow guide dowel just below the kickstart shaft that has to align with and fit into the cover. The kickstart shaft is often being pushed up a bit by its return spring, causing the cover to not align with that hollow dowel, preventing seating. Simply pressing the kickstart shaft downward a bit helps to get the cover in alignment and seated...

 

[Jim]

As I recall, Peanut did a fairly good job on this video.... other than grabbing it with channel locks at the end. Don't do that.