Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools

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Made a solid toolpost for the Emco at home. Small lathe but it helps with stability

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If Possible please give info how that is manufactured and with what.
It is a complicated Geometry .. Far above what i Have ever done and ..Admittedly with little experience in
lathes and so Perhaps not even seen ...
It would be difficult to make a Correct drawing to give to a shop.
I assume it needs some programming of some complicated machinery perhaps many machines.
 
@kopcicle , thanx.

I took your drawing, cleaned it up a bit, added to my library.

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The little crank handles usually have a solid post that press fits into the crank's pockets. Highly polished and chromed, the crank handles easily spin in the machinist's fingers. Some crank handles have a rotating pin, which is either press-fitted or screwed into the crank. Doggone things can easily break off in the presence of ham-handed operators, or riggers...

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If Possible please give info how that is manufactured and with what.
It is a complicated Geometry .. Far above what i Have ever done and ..Admittedly with little experience in
lathes and so Perhaps not even seen ...
It would be difficult to make a Correct drawing to give to a shop.
I assume it needs some programming of some complicated machinery perhaps many machines.

Easy, you just need one of these:

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Note: the tool on the right just did not get it done. WTH was I thinking?
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With all the work I've been doing out of the spindle taper , exposing the spindle threads made me nervous.
I built a "Thread protector" . It covers not only the threads and register but the shoulder as well.
The number of spring passes was worth it .
 
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Brief celebration and back to work

The tool on the left just wasn't rigid enough and no amount of spring passes would complete the threading. That and curiously enough the "tune" via chatter that the overhang was playing tended to make the tool holder rotate on top of the compound no matter how tight the post bolt was.

The tool on the right was a close relative of some sort of stainless. More likely a 41xx variety. A total PITA to machine. In the end I got the tooth profile in. Without hardening it took and kept an edge and appears to have changed it's tune (resonance).

Once I got it to begin threading I ran maybe 6-8 spring passes with naphtha (zippo fluid) for cutting fluid. The counter bores are 1" to clear the register and 1.63xx" to clear the shoulder so that the threads, register and shoulder are protected.

I feel a whole lot better now when a chuck isn't protecting the threads.
Oh yeah. A few shameless plugs for those that contributed to the project.

Joel.To a true baseball fan and provider of replacement metal gibs.
http://www.mymachineshop.net/
Rich. Provider of affordable precision cutting tools made in America.
https://www.standardcutting.com/
The whole family at Swift for supplying me with everything from 1/4" HSS blanks to annealed tool steel and putting up with me for 30+ years.
https://www.swifttool.com/
Paul Stoner of Stoner metals for reasonable prices on bits and pieces of stock.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/6061dude?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
Peter Jones for hours of reminding me of everything I'd forgotten about machining over the last five decades.
And last but not least the provider of the all important cutting fluids and coolant.
https://www.futureprimitivebeer.com/
 
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Two years ago I had mentioned to my brother who would frequent estate sales that I was looking for a metal lathe and mill, he found a 10x30 Atlas he picked up for $350 for me and it took a bit to make the exchange as he lives in WV and I'm in GA. During transport he broke one of the Zamak knobs. I got one from a guy for $30, lathe needed rewiring so I spent about another $15 on cable and $75 to get a local electric motor shop to wire it in with the forward/reverse switch. A welder friend made a repair to the motor mounting bracket that had a piece broken out. It was pretty well equipped but I could tell that way too primitive and time consuming to really be functional for what I was looking for. Ended up selling it for $500 to a local farmer for his barn and started looking again.
The past two years since every time I find something that looks interesting it's gone before I get there or can arrange to get cash to pay for it.
Finally 3 weeks ago I happened on a 12x36 Harbor Freight/Grizzly that runs on single phase 220 and just got it wired up last night by tapping off the dryer in the laundry room next to my garage.
I bought it from an estate, the old guy used to repair cars in his barn, he also had an old round ram M head B'port with 30" table and a nice 18" Polish lathe but the daughter wasn't ready to let them go yet even though she had them listed.
She had the B'port way over priced because she didn't understand the model differences, "All mills look alike" so she had it priced at $6k. I printed some things I found online that they sell for $1200-$1500 all day and it kind of burst her bubble.
Looking forward to turning up some tracker rear wheel adapters soon.
Recently purchase a second Trackmaster or perhaps T'master knock off frame and some 7 spoke Morris wheels I'm looking to fit up. Should be fun.
 
Wooooooo!

and likewise, Hoooooo!

I've had a Horror-Fright quality engine crane (tho not actually from HF) for years. Plenty adequate for my occasional use, plus the legs fold up and it stores in a relatively small footprint.

One disadvantage to the "fold 'em/store 'em" cranes is that with the boom all the way down in storage position, it takes a LOT of pumps on the long ram jack to get the boom up far enough to extend it, much less actually lift anything with it. For some time now, I've lusted after an air-over-hydraulic jack to put on it.

Dicking around with that generator brought the idea to the surface again and seeing as I've made a couple of bucks off Dale this month, I looked around for one. Initially, the $170-ish price tag put me off, but I found one on Amazon for $110 and free Prime shipping, so I jumped on it.

It appears to be identical (and quite probably is...) to the one Northern Hydraulic wanted $170 plus shipping for.

Just got done installing it. Had to machine the bottom bracket a little as it missed being wide enough to fit the crane mount by this much. Other than that, it's a bolt-on and it works slick as a smelt. It's an air hog. I'd hate to try to run it off a portable air tank, but in the shop it's fine.

Haven't tried to actually LIFT anything under air, but even if it just gets the boom to operating position without wearing my pumping arm out, it's worth the investment to me.

In other news, there's a $700 J-head Bridgeport for sale within reasonable driving distance. I drooled over the ad for some time, but that pesky Reality kept giving me the stink eye. No tooling and really, no reasonable place to put it, especially for something that would get used once every other Blue Moon. If I were 20 years younger maybe, but it just doesn't make any sense now.
 
Played with it a bit this morning (the jack, ya preverts...) and found two things:

1. It will lift full rated load (950 pounds with the boom in the 1/2 ton position) using air and do so in a controlled manner. If I needed to adjust something by a fraction of an inch, I'd probably still use the hand pump function, but for hoisting stuff up onto a trailer and such, the air works fine.

2. The air valve has a bail on it that drops into position and locks the handle down so it keeps pumping if you let go. Annoying and potentially dangerous. I took it off. I believe I have the stamina/patience to stand there and hold the lever down while jacking it up from the stowed position and I can't foresee any need to use it otherwise. I CAN foresee something getting all stove to catshit because I forgot to release the bail.
 
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