Mannulus Mechanica (build thread)

Paint is gonna look something like this.
EE4863C9-D6B0-4141-BE62-E4D018FDF150.jpeg

Good for you for bucking that flat black trend! I like some color.
A8976ED6-99AA-406E-89D0-6684F18C8465.jpeg
Is that contraption real? It looks like something that Ichiban on YouTube uses! :laugh2:
 
Paint is gonna look something like this.
View attachment 188669

Good for you for bucking that flat black trend! I like some color.
View attachment 188670
Is that contraption real? It looks like something that Ichiban on YouTube uses! :laugh2:
;) Don’t get me started flat black and “rat bikes/rods”. Flat paint started out as suede paint jobs that were largely real paint oversprayed with clear & flattening agent. And mostly in reds and blues. That somehow turned into rattle can black primer which is not paint. It then became a justification for poor work. No flat black for this guy, I view clear coat as an accessory and it should be applied liberally.

Yes it is a real tool , it’s a quite old ZIM valve lapping tool. It reciprocates as you crank it. I bought it at a swap meet for a couple of bucks years ago because I thought it looked cool. Just out of curiosity I tried once while I was lapping the valves on an IronHead sporty and found that it actually works pretty well. It allows you to apply more pressure than a valve quirl.
 
Got my head pipes mocked up, not trimmed to length. Will be running upswept cocktail shaker mufflers. I will be having the kicker shaft machined down to a square to accept a Harley kicker lever with offset to clear the pipes.
View attachment 188057


Yes Sir world Class Job ... I am impressed to learn new things almost every day here.
I have also worked with sheet metal and buys every tool I can find at flea markets.
As well as literature the ...older the better.
As I understand you are using slices of wood as card deck cards and puts these slices in the frame inside.
A Whole block would not go in ..and then adapting each of these slices for making a wooden block.
That wooden block is then used for the forming of the outside of the box I don't know what it is in English in Swedish it is called
" Svep " or the " Svep Side "
This is clever work and I have not heard or seen that ..
I have heard of whole blocks of wood being formed to the desired curve with complex geometry
and then the tinsmith forms the Car part on that. hammering and so.
Exotic Hard wood ---Perhaps no longer legal to use.

With this method one has a chance making a patch for fex a CAR fender should one need to
And that is a huge advantage if neither replacement fender or patch is available.
And even better for places not visible.

Do you glue the slices together ? What wood is used ? Is that ca 2 mm thick sheet metal
Is this a well know method for fex CAR body parts in the US.
Using heated metal ? possible ?
 
Yes Sir world Class Job ... I am impressed to learn new things almost every day here.
I have also worked with sheet metal and buys every tool I can find at flea markets.
As well as literature the ...older the better.
As I understand you are using slices of wood as card deck cards and puts these slices in the frame inside.
A Whole block would not go in ..and then adapting each of these slices for making a wooden block.
That wooden block is then used for the forming of the outside of the box I don't know what it is in English in Swedish it is called
" Svep " or the " Svep Side "
This is clever work and I have not heard or seen that ..
I have heard of whole blocks of wood being formed to the desired curve with complex geometry
and then the tinsmith forms the Car part on that. hammering and so.
Exotic Hard wood ---Perhaps no longer legal to use.

With this method one has a chance making a patch for fex a CAR fender should one need to
And that is a huge advantage if neither replacement fender or patch is available.
And even better for places not visible.

Do you glue the slices together ? What wood is used ? Is that ca 2 mm thick sheet metal
Is this a well know method for fex CAR body parts in the US.
Using heated metal ? possible ?
@Jan_P thank you, in English it’s called a buck. In this case I glued them all together because it was easier to have a solid block to work with as a proxy for the tank and there wasn’t much need for disassembly of the buck. I’m not sure what wood I used for the buck, they were box lids from shipping crates from Germany. Beech or European yellow pine I would suspect.
The sheet metal is 16g (1.6mm) no need to anneal for a simple non-compound radius this shallow. It will partially anneal and relax when I braze the seams up.
Panel beating can be a lot of fun, I have several books on the subject some being quite old. I also buy a lot of old tools at sales and flea markets.
 
Super nice work , as usual. Brazing is something you don’t see a lot of guys do anymore. When I was a welder I loved to braze, brass flows so nice and it is surprisingly strong. You can even buy special alloy rods that are very strong. Your project is a lot of fun to follow! :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Super nice work , as usual. Brazing is something you don’t see a lot of guys do anymore. When I was a welder I lived to braze, brass flows so nice and it is surprisingly strong. You can even buy special alloy rods that are very strong. Your project is a lot of fun to follow! :thumbsup:
Thanks Mailman, I also really enjoy brazing. I haven't much occasion to do it in a very long time though. I am not ashamed to say that it took me quite a while to get my rhythm back today. I got the brazing rod at Home Despot and they were over a buck apiece for 4 flux coated rods. I was not impressed, but I'm not sure what I excepted from big box home center brazing rods o_O... I think I'm gonna run to the welding supply store tomorrow and get some proper nickel/bronze rod and a 1lb of flux. I used to braze a lot when I was working on old Iron Head Sportys, they were notorious for cracking/breaking around the exhaust spigots and most needed to be brazed up.
 
I haven't much occasion to do it in a very long time though. I am not ashamed to say that it took me quite a while to get my rhythm back today.
There's an old pilots axiom that says "you are only as good as you are current." Among many other skills, that applies to brazing too.
 
As input
Are those the rods at the table grey ones ..rather large diameter 3 mm . ???
I Have never seen so large.
If so the brazing could benefit of smaller diameter rod ..and small localized flame.
The metal work has fine fit no larger cracks . And it is possible to move the object to an advantageous position for brazing
That small flame not much larger than 2 x 3 x a cigarette lighter flame keeping the flame core at the crack on an angle and then touch it with the filler rod when temp is up. Move on. If it is to slow then increase heat
The lower input gives more time to hit it and a smaller heat zone.

You could in theory -- and some can do .. Some never can learn it ... Do the same with a steel rod filler about the same diameter and little higher temperature but then one needs to be alert and that is many times more difficult.

Piping was gas welded here. .And also with rather small diameter for filler
1.5 -- 2 mm there exists 3 mm but I have never seen it in use
 
As input
Are those the rods at the table grey ones ..rather large diameter 3 mm . ???
I Have never seen so large.
If so the brazing could benefit of smaller diameter rod ..and small localized flame.
The metal work has fine fit no larger cracks . And it is possible to move the object to an advantageous position for brazing
That small flame not much larger than 2 x 3 x a cigarette lighter flame keeping the flame core at the crack on an angle and then touch it with the filler rod when temp is up. Move on. If it is to slow then increase heat
The lower input gives more time to hit it and a smaller heat zone.

You could in theory -- and some can do .. Some never can learn it ... Do the same with a steel rod filler about the same diameter and little higher temperature but then one needs to be alert and that is many times more difficult.

Piping was gas welded here. .And also with rather small diameter for filler
1.5 -- 2 mm there exists 3 mm but I have never seen it in use
I used a Victor 0 tip, oxy/acc 3/3, low neutral flame 4-5mm cone, and 1/16 (1.5mm) filler rod. It looks like larger filler rod because it’s flux coated.
 
As input
Are those the rods at the table grey ones ..rather large diameter 3 mm . ???
I Have never seen so large.
If so the brazing could benefit of smaller diameter rod ..and small localized flame.
The metal work has fine fit no larger cracks . And it is possible to move the object to an advantageous position for brazing
That small flame not much larger than 2 x 3 x a cigarette lighter flame keeping the flame core at the crack on an angle and then touch it with the filler rod when temp is up. Move on. If it is to slow then increase heat
The lower input gives more time to hit it and a smaller heat zone.

You could in theory -- and some can do .. Some never can learn it ... Do the same with a steel rod filler about the same diameter and little higher temperature but then one needs to be alert and that is many times more difficult.

Piping was gas welded here. .And also with rather small diameter for filler
1.5 -- 2 mm there exists 3 mm but I have never seen it in use
A little cleanup and it'll look just fine.
thumbsup.gif
 
Appears right it was many years ago ... And I don't think I knew the numbers even then.
and 1.5 mm must be right.
Then it can be the flux that makes it expand ,Cant renumber I have seen those.
Coated pins
Perhaps because almost all I worked with was Galvanized.

As a story
Sometimes it was Polished Stainless and sometimes Copper .. Plates and those were Exxxxxpensive.
When working with copper the shop manager was behind ones back .
Is that right ..have you checked the measurements .. Before on could step on the pedal cutting it up..
I suppose one would get fired cutting one up in the wrong dimension.
There would always be some small scrap bit that was put in a bucket behind the Cutting machine.

Come Christmas the scrap was sold and a Christmas table at the inn was booked for the staff .5 or so
The company manager-- owner was a cheapskate ..
But the shop manager .. was not ..Can still remember he asking
"More Schnapps ( Shots ) Lads ??? "
And before the answer ..the waitress -- was called upon -One more time again One more Round.
Those things mattered in them days.
Proper company party.
 
Started cleaning up the ports in my head. This head must have been made on Friday at 5:00pm cause the porting was BADDDD! There were significant obstructions and the quality was crap. The floor of the runners where they meet the valve seat needed a LOT of blending but that’s near impossible to photograph. Anyway I got the intake ports cleaned up quite a bit and am pretty happy with them. The intake runners are at 80G right now and will stay that way. Exhaust runners will be polished once ported.
235CFC6F-1E5C-4053-87A1-54C22E96BD52.jpeg
D0DF60E5-24EB-4C2A-A911-A3485B4401A3.jpeg
 
@Beags64 really came through with this one. He ground my XS kicker shaft to accept a Harley kick lever (late 4spd/xl).And did an outstanding job. I think I’m going to switch to 54-68 pan kick lever with less offset. But this mod allows the kicker clear a right side high pipe, and looks cool as hell.
341495F6-3E71-4077-96AB-E66A38BEF0C1.jpeg
788937AF-6265-42A9-9ED8-101C3A3B6C43.jpeg
668A7987-8A8A-457E-A972-6424072B7558.jpeg
 
Back
Top