XS650 Model Identification/Year/VIN, Workshop Manuals, and Other Information

Not certain
But if one looks at the table there

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/09/29/xs650-model-year-model-code-engine-number/

upload_2021-6-4_22-52-35.png


TX650 has unknown serial numbers in Canada
TX650 has to 217100 in the US
So I guess that yours is of a batch sold in Oceania or Asia or so outside of that US range.
Importer to Australia may have the facts
The frame number appears clear and solid. Importer may have paint code.
 
Hi 2XS, from your photo, the frame number looks like 650-21788. There's frame & engine number tables in the Tech section which should tell you what you have. Unfortunately, I couldn't find that number, makes me wonder if yours is an original frame. Probably me being blind. Wots the engine number?

Raymond. First post in this thread has the vin charts
 
Thanks, looks like it’s a Tx then mystery solved. I will ask at local Yamaha dealers if they can tell what It’s original colour was. Probably a long shot and even if they do I am not sure if anyone knows how to mix the original tx paint colours anyway. I would like it to be a standard colour but maybe a random colour is better than a poor attempt at a standard colour that I only have photos to go by. Has anyone out there attempted the original TX650
Colour with success. Are these bikes more sort after as standard or makes little difference??
 
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Can someone help me confirm if I have a Tx650. Also I would like to spray bike in original colour which I thought would be blue but scratching under current paint it looks orange?? Side covers also don’t seem to be Tx

73TX650 also had Pearl Yellow Gold as a 73TX colour. I think this was more of a non US colour.
166473-10b80bdb719ebf662ba0b587424ebc27.jpg


And Yes yours looks like a TX650. The tank is a different shape to the 70-72 XS650's. Also the big change was to the front brake rotor, forks and hub. 73 Rotor is a straight bolt on to the hub rotor that is used on the 73-76 TX/XS650's

On the 72 the rotor and hub are 2 parts that set into each other and can't be used on any other bike separately.
Mailman's 72 XS2 shows the Rotor and hub
Post #'s 545/548.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-28#post-548122

View attachment 192633 View attachment 192632 View attachment 192631 Thanks for reply’s. Engine and frame numbers match s650217183 and I agree that the tables at the beginning of this thread don’t seem to go up to this number? I know the history of this bike to a point. It was my fathers who passed away 30 years ago and the bike has sat in the back barn on our farm in Tasmania rusting away . Mum recently decided to sell up so I had the bike sent over to nz. Thought it would be a good sentimental project. Unfortunately it has no papers, they were either lost or Dad never had any to begin with.
Interesting about the yellow as a first coat under red,makes sense still thought I might have seen some original paint somewhere? Photos of bike are as dad had it 30 years ago

ID Chart01.jpg

This chart is from, theXScafe blog. member INXS, (vernon), made this up himself from his information he collected. With your bike being 78 past the cut off number on this chart, would most likely be right, and the chart wrong. There is no guarantee that 21700 is set in stone. Vernon asks on his site for any information to confirm or information that may differ to help make it more accurate.

I have done a lot of vin and model,information collecting, from members on this site to help with this. I colour coded what i found out and in the PDF version, (posted in post #1), i have tags next to models i have confirmed.

Country ID and Colour Chart World wide  Jpeg 1.jpg

On this chart it has the US and Canada getting the TX650 then it also has other as getting them as well. Other would include Australia and NZ.

It is Most likely the Vin no's on the 73 TX where consecutive world wide and there was no separate set of Vin #'s for different countries.
This did definatly started in 75 when the European models got different internals in there motor. Before that is still a bit vague and there appears to be some confusion..........

Here is a colour abbreviation chart for the XS650
3c Dutch Colour Codes Jpeg.jpg
 
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D7312D48-15C6-49E6-8870-BC8F1CAB0054.jpeg F87C531D-F273-48E3-BB93-8D1419AEBB13.jpeg Wow Skull so much information, thanks mate. Had wondered if mine was originally a pearl yellow gold but possibly the orange on my tins is just under coat. No sign of metallic flake blue anywhere though? Having not actually seen either of these two tx colours in real life, anyone out there have a view on the better colour that I should try to reproduce. Even better anyone done it already?
 
The following video gives good views of the early colours:
It may be worth looking for an example of the Pearl Yellow Gold. It may be a very smart choice being so rare????

Edit: A Google search for TX650 Pearl Yellow Gold brings up some examples.

He came onto the site years ago Paul, promoting this Youtube video. I helped him correct a mistake and got no thanks, so didn't correct any more. He has left 2 models and has lumped one of those 2 in with another that is completely different visually making it a stand alone model.......... also left out a lot of different colours for some models......... so ????

As a curiosity have you checked out the first page on this thread......
 
Thinking out loud here
If a repaint has happened it is rare to paint over all original paint .. .. Under some bolt head or so the original would be seen

I do believe the exact paint color can be found to buy but if it can be found as a spray able Auto paint ( not sure what it is called in English-- Lack here )
is more uncertain..

Not long ago I was at the paint shop .. getting some touch up paint for kitchen cabinet doors that had a little fire damage
Had the door with me.
The young girl had some kind of a reader .. big as a Pack of cigarettes .Like a pocket calculator . Electronic device Holding that against the surface
getting a code
Don t ask me how it works it is something electrical ..
That device gave out some code that she printed into the mixing machine Keyboard like Some drops of that and a more of another
And shaking that can ..
Spot on brushed on an dried .Cant see it has been painted at the edge..

Paint jobs are expensive .And I believe not so easy tog get fine ( I am no expert )
Most people avoid it on cars and bikes unless we are talking rich people doing a top job.
But I have seen bad jobs on expensive cars. Lot of preparation and surface cleaning needed.

There are people out there ..e bay and so that sells touch up paints for Motorcycles and Yamaha XS 650
Bought it for a dent on a Red tank I was Planning to pull out a dent on . 1982 or so
Had the code exact right
But it still looked like S*hit ( and I can accept less than perfect ) most likely because the sun had burnt the color on the tank so It was the right code .But the Tank no longer had that.
There are firms getting recommendations here .. But I think you are US $ 300 down as soon you are over the doorstep.With the tank under your arm..

That is why it was jaw dropping to me that little gadget mentioned above getting an exact match
 
Skull, I had read this thread some years ago

Hey mr and mrs banana head....looking good.....

I reason a I asked is, it has been up so long, and i wondered if long time members ever went back over the thread from time to time. Thanks for the accolade and it is nice to hear, to be honest, they weren't the reason to do the ID.thread. Like you when i went to buy an XS i couldn't find the information i needed, as the bike i was looking at was a bitsa and i wanted to understand what i really had....Didn't buy it and it wasn't till i learned about the models that the bike wasn't what the owner claimed. Good bike and probably a good buy at the time but he either didn't know or lied,

About 8 months ago i did a full rework on the ID on models and incorporated text on models and added other nationalities to the models as well. It is a world wide site so adding them made sense
 
View attachment 192651 View attachment 192652 Wow Skull so much information, thanks mate. Had wondered if mine was originally a pearl yellow gold but possibly the orange on my tins is just under coat. No sign of metallic flake blue anywhere though? Having not actually seen either of these two tx colours in real life, anyone out there have a view on the better colour that I should try to reproduce. Even better anyone done it already?

That's a great shot of the gold TX. I'Il use that in the list to replace the shitty one i have..........cheers
 
View attachment 192633 View attachment 192632 View attachment 192631 Thanks for reply’s. Engine and frame numbers match s650217183 and I agree that the tables at the beginning of this thread don’t seem to go up to this number? I know the history of this bike to a point. It was my fathers who passed away 30 years ago and the bike has sat in the back barn on our farm in Tasmania rusting away . Mum recently decided to sell up so I had the bike sent over to nz. Thought it would be a good sentimental project. Unfortunately it has no papers, they were either lost or Dad never had any to begin with.
Interesting about the yellow as a first coat under red,makes sense still thought I might have seen some original paint somewhere? Photos of bike are as dad had it 30 years ago
Hi 2xs. The numbers in the chart for the TX appear to be incorrect. I've owned several TX and three of them have numbers higher than 217100, the highest starting with 2179??. So it is definitely a 73 TX engine and frame number. Hope you restore it to original.
 
Hi 2xs. The numbers in the chart for the TX appear to be incorrect. I've owned several TX and three of them have numbers higher than 217100, the highest starting with 2179??. So it is definitely a 73 TX engine and frame number. Hope you restore it to original.
..
This chart is from, theXScafe blog. member INXS, (vernon), made this up himself from his information he collected. With your bike being 78 past the cut off number on this chart, would most likely be right, and the chart wrong. There is no guarantee that 21700 is set in stone. Vernon asks on his site for any information to confirm or information that may differ to help make it more accurate.

Any verifiable information is appreciated to make the chart as accurate as possible. With 2xs's post, this is the first time someone has queried and posted proof that the cut off vin # on the chart for the TX is wrong.
 
Any verifiable information is appreciated to make the chart as accurate as possible. With 2xs's post, this is the first time someone has queried and posted proof that the cut off vin # on the chart for the TX is wrong.
What is classed as verifiable information?
I'm an owner of some so I assume that is more verifiable than information sourced on the web.
Anyhow I went over and took some photos from 2 of them; one starting with s650-2178xx, one starting with s650-2179xx.
 
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Thinking out loud here
If a repaint has happened it is rare to paint over all original paint .. .. Under some bolt head or so the original would be seen

I do believe the exact paint color can be found to buy but if it can be found as a spray able Auto paint ( not sure what it is called in English-- Lack here )
is more uncertain..

Not long ago I was at the paint shop .. getting some touch up paint for kitchen cabinet doors that had a little fire damage
Had the door with me.
The young girl had some kind of a reader .. big as a Pack of cigarettes .Like a pocket calculator . Electronic device Holding that against the surface
getting a code
Don t ask me how it works it is something electrical ..
That device gave out some code that she printed into the mixing machine Keyboard like Some drops of that and a more of another
And shaking that can ..
Spot on brushed on an dried .Cant see it has been painted at the edge..

Paint jobs are expensive .And I believe not so easy tog get fine ( I am no expert )
Most people avoid it on cars and bikes unless we are talking rich people doing a top job.
But I have seen bad jobs on expensive cars. Lot of preparation and surface cleaning needed.

There are people out there ..e bay and so that sells touch up paints for Motorcycles and Yamaha XS 650
Bought it for a dent on a Red tank I was Planning to pull out a dent on . 1982 or so
Had the code exact right
But it still looked like S*hit ( and I can accept less than perfect ) most likely because the sun had burnt the color on the tank so It was the right code .But the Tank no longer had that.
There are firms getting recommendations here .. But I think you are US $ 300 down as soon you are over the doorstep.With the tank under your arm..

That is why it was jaw dropping to me that little gadget mentioned above getting an exact match
I did a two day course on color(colour), very compressed and basic. Each color represents a certain portion of the spectrum from ultra violet to infared. Blues will have a big portion of blues with lesser amounts of the rest of the spectrum. Reds, yellows, greens the same. If a replacement color has spectrum close to an original and the amounts of intersect graphicly at certain wave lengths they will look identical with that back ground illumination but vastly different in other wavelength lighting.
 
That's cool. I didn't have any of this info when I started rebuilding. I just wanted to keep is as close to the original color as possible. I was looking good till somebody :whistle: let it fall over in the trailer and bash the tank. So I get another tank and take the original down to my auto parts. I tell the girl, get your laser and hit this and see how close your computer can get to Bountiful blue. It came up with a VW color and I can't tell the difference. Side covers are original, tank is not.
Got the paint and reducer. Got the little bottle that attaches to the spray cartridge and in business. stuck on the decals, clear coated with two part epoxy and
if I didn't tell you, you wouldn't know.
bike paint.jpg
 
(last 2 digits hidden from your prying eyes)
I'm not throwing rocks here I'm simply curious as to why ?
What can a baddie do with a VIN Number from a 44 year old Japanese motorcycle ?
It's not like they can run up your credit card or empty your bank account or worse, re-title your house and put you in the street.
What part of that VIN becomes protected personal information (PPI) and why?
Sweet looking 77 by the way !
 
With the prices of the early XS's over here it could be worth while for a Guy who steals a XS1/1B/2/TX could grind off the no get the no posted from on here, Get a police check to see if it is registered or stolen and if not re-stamp the bike to sell.............Poor old txxs does his bike up and goes to register it and the cops now grab him for falsifying a vin no to register the bike..........If he cant convince them he is the victim, then the bike is probably impounded by the cops and court case pending.

Few years ago a friend who had a shed full of bikes had an old BMW stolen. The thieves took of a sheet of iron and man handled the bike over the top of several others to get it out then replaced the sheet. Stolen to order. they knew what they were after. ..............So it could happen that a vin is stolen.
 
I'm not throwing rocks here I'm simply curious as to why ?
What can a baddie do with a VIN Number from a 44 year old Japanese motorcycle ?
It's not like they can run up your credit card or empty your bank account or worse, re-title your house and put you in the street.
What part of that VIN becomes protected personal information (PPI) and why?

Short answer is: - none of your business.

Actually I would suggest it is not advisable for anyone to put your full ID on the internet.
You are free to do so if you want to but I choose not to.

The original post was to provide info to assist with the identification of early models
 
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