22's 1980 xs650 build thread

I dont think it will be any problem
I remove mine every year when I empty the tank for winter.I Put some oil in tank -- that needs to come out
If you are nervous you can replace the 20 rubber ring I don't do that I smear some liquid gasket slop
on it
Never noticed any leaks

View attachment 196832

View attachment 196831

Perfect, thanks, just what I was hoping to hear!
 
So logically I think I put the filter back on correctly, the side with filter to the bottom I put on the reserve side, hoping that my logic is accurate. Also, I couldn't quite push it all the way down to flush, does anyone know if it should push down to flush? I was tapping it with a wooden drift to even get it this far and it seems tight.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_07821.jpg
    IMG_07821.jpg
    185.9 KB · Views: 89
In your pic, the right side of the screen with the solid plastic about 2/3 of the way up is the "On" side. Left side with the screening almost to the bottom is the "Reserve" side. Not sure if it should fit all the way down flush, maybe it should. It's been so long since I had one off I don't remember, lol. I'm sure someone else will have be along shortly to let you know. This all was just discussed recently.
 
Mine sat down flush. However.... yours and my screens are swapped. One of us won't have reserve. I wonder who..... :umm:


IMG_20190429_160827.jpg
 
I'll definitely defer to you in this case
Never said I was right. :umm:
Like you, found mine laying in the gas tank. Been a few yrs, so I don't recall how I arrived at that decision. Perhaps that's the only way it went flush?
Been meanin' to carry some gas in a can and run it to see if reserve works. Jus' haven't got around to it.
 
If I'm on the road I have a 1 Qt camping gas container with never had to use, it but Just in case another 10 miles or so might be convenient
 
I flipped the filter and it fit and I was able to get it flush, I'm sure I would have tried both ways originally but who knows, either way it's flush and the petcock is mounted and ready for fuel. Mind you I keep reading that a manual petcock is the way to go, I hope this one holds out for a while longer. My next job is to somehow get the carb/airbox/fuel lines/breather hose all hooked up in what seems to be not enough room, not to mention the electrical wires and frame that keeps getting in the way, I'm sure there's a trick to it, if anyone has any tips or tricks I'm all ears.
 
Carbs are the real painful part. The way I do it is slide the carbs in place with the intake boots sittin' on the bench. Once they're slid past the downtube, Install the boots and push the carbs into 'em.
 
Okay I got everything back together and it starts and idles pretty good if you ask me but there are a couple things.....
1. It seems like oil is leaking from my drain plugs, I torqued them to 32ftlbs and the washers looked good to me, how much higher can I torque them?
2. I fitted 1.5" commando mufflers to my stock exhaust and therefore needed 2 adapters to make it work, when I first started it there was quite a bit of popping coming from the connection on the one side (the side that wasn't quite as tight of a fit) anyways should I just let the carbon build up to seal it or should I add some sort of exhaust sealant? it seemed like the popping calmed down even after a few minutes of it running.
3. I put new black euro bars on and now my electric start and turn signals don't work. My horn and high beam switches both work fine.... and I swear the signals did work last night when I tested them without starting the bike. I've read this could be a ground issue due to the painted bars but any thoughts would be great.

Next up will be checking valves and cam chain adjustment.

Thanks.
 
Your turn signals not working isn't related to the new painted handlebars but the starter not working is. Yes, it's a ground issue. The left switch housing has a ground wire run into the headlight. It connects to the housing and grounds the whole thing. Once clamped to the handlebar, this ground is transferred over to the right switch housing through the bars. This provides a ground for the start button.

I7OCZNO.jpg


So, you will need to clean some of the paint off your new bars on both sides where the ground clips in the switch housings make contact.
 
Okay I moved the wires around and the signals started to work so must be a loose connection in the switch somewhere, with regards to the ground clip it looks as though it doesn't even touch the bar on the right hand side... take a look at the pic.... you can see a gap between ground clip and bar..... I'll take a closer look later today.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_07891.jpg
    IMG_07891.jpg
    136.3 KB · Views: 93
I bend that tab slightly so that it's "spring loaded" against the handlebars. Make sure you scrape the paint off the bars where that tab contacts on both left and right switches.
There's 3 solder joints in the switch for the signals. It's not uncommon for one (or more) of the joints to come loose. It's a bit fiddly, but they can be soldered back on.
 
I took the switch apart to see if I could diagnose the turn signal issue, I had the key on and was wiggling the wires to see which one might be the issue, I also made sure the ground was good, however, as I was playing with the ground connection all of a sudden the bike lost power completely as in the neutral light turned off, I was hoping I blew a fuse but the fuses are all okay, any idea what I might have blown?
 
If you were in the headlight bucket, you might have disturbed the ignition switch connector.

I was but the turn signals worked after I was in there. When I had the left hand switch open to check for loose connections I had the ignition on. I loosened the ground screw as seen in 5twins picture above so I could make sure it was snug, it started sparking a few times and the ignition went dead and now I get nothing when turning the key on. I'm pretty sure I must have shorted something out I just have no idea what it could be or even where to start looking......
 
I was but the turn signals worked after I was in there. When I had the left hand switch open to check for loose connections I had the ignition on. I loosened the ground screw as seen in 5twins picture above so I could make sure it was snug, it started sparking a few times and the ignition went dead and now I get nothing when turning the key on. I'm pretty sure I must have shorted something out I just have no idea what it could be or even where to start looking......
That really sounds like a blown fuse. :shrug:
 
Okay, relatively good news for me tonight, switched out the 20A fuse and we got power, I can actually still get the multimeter to beep with the blown fuse every once in a while so it must be a slight break in one of the ends anyways all good there. Shaved off the paint on the bars and we got e-start again! And finally I took apart the left hand switch and voila two broken solder connections, I haven't looked at any diagrams yet but if anyone knows which wire goes where that would be great and also as I was taking the switch apart the round thing in the pic fell out before I could get a picture, it might only go back one way but I might as well ask now while I'm at it, does the extended part go down or up? Anyways I say that's 3 for 3.... just need to get a soldering iron now and it doesn't look like an easy solder job, tips definitely welcome.
Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 20210919_204742.jpg
    20210919_204742.jpg
    183.2 KB · Views: 79
  • 20210919_205027.jpg
    20210919_205027.jpg
    113.5 KB · Views: 91
Back
Top