Recent content by 650creature

Yup, it was something small. Had a condenser wired in where the capacitor needed to be. Just got back from the first shake down, now begins the tuning process. Thanks for all the helpfully suggestions and know how; best a luck and god speed.

This bike was chopped and falling apart badly before I bought it, but it was running. So I broke it down and built it up to make it more highway reliable. Bought the Hugh's Handbuilt / Pamco Pete combo, sent in my motor to get bored out to a 700, found out it was already a 750, so i know...

It's so weird that I have to have my needle e-clip all the way down for it to start and idle , the trade off being that I am getting way too much fuel. I mean it's obviouse that I am getting plenty of fuel to the cylinder, too much fuel really, but when I lean her out it won't start. ????

The issue with the plugs getting wet so quick; the valves are acting correctly, so now it's either fuel delivery or spark malfunction. Right?

So putting the cam in upside down would not change anything? Timing light is telling me the sparks hitting right on FIRE. Valves seem to be going up and down easily.

Confirm actual cam timing? Would disengaging then rotating the cam 180 then reangaging chain put the power stroke on the right side fixing the timing issue? Since the pistons move in unison and I have a dual output coil I would just be moving the power stroke to the other side.

Thanks for the link Brian. It seems to answer my questions. It is weird that the link explains that with the cam cutout vertical the r.h. cyl is on compression stroke not the left-hand cylinder which I interpreted the book as saying. Un fortunately this is how I have the cam and valves timed...

With cam chain tensioner completely removed there is about a half of a chain link rock in the cam. This wording is confusing me(quoting the afore mentioned paragraph from Hayens book): "4. To set the valve timing turn the engine over slowly until the l.h cyl is at TDC on its compression...

Cam looks correct.:confused: If anyone out there has a Haynes Yamaha Owners Manual 70'-83', then maybe you could help me understand page 61 section 36 paragraph 4, which sumed up says; to set valve timing. L.h cyl. to T.D.C on compression stroke. Alternator timing marks line up. Position in cam...

Pulled off a.t.u plate. The cam pin seems to be just slightly angled toward the rear of the cycle. Pulling rocker box to inspect cam location.

Opened up the intakes to .025" . Seems to improve idle , and throttle no longer kills engine when barley turned ; now it kills it after I open to almost full throttle. Still sounds very bogged down, with a noticeably smaller kickback air/fuel plume through the carbs. I am thinking ;retard...

The bike was not starting so I replaced the size 45 pilot jets, and returned the jet needle e-clip to the lowest notch. First kick starts up and idles for a minute. Plugs are wet and when I turn the throttle a good spray of air/fuel gets blasted the wrong way through the carbs. It has...

Okay here's the update; the engine will not start after I move the needle jet clip up at all. I will kick till my leg's sore, then pull the plugs and they're dry.:wtf: ,seems I am getting too little or too much fuel . The pilot jet is nominal at 25, and the bike is not responding to the idle...

Thanks for the enlightenment. I realize now that I misunderstood pg.77paragraph 6 .