Recent content by jcadwell

Yes, stock master cylinder.

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I'm at a loss for setting the timing on my rephased, Pamco'd, PMA'd bike. I don't have the stock timing marks, and all the descriptions of timing refer to the "F" mark. Anybody know how many degrees BTDC the idle timing should be, and how far it advances? Thanks.

Here is how I mounted mine. Just a tab welded to the frame rail. I have a TC Bros hardtail, and it didn't have room to mount the disc brake caliper between the frame rails. As least not if you had to adjust the chain tension...

NPT threads require a NPT tap. Bear in mind that your pipe taps don't correspond to OD, but more loosely to ID. A 1/4" NPT thread is more like 1/2" in diameter. NPT taps aren't expensive, and most hardware stores should have one. As for how deep to go, it is a little bit guess and check...

Try removing the neutral detent, and removing spring loaded assembly that mates with the shift star. Removing both should make it very easy to turn the shift drum by spinning the shift star. Turn the chain sprocket slowly, and try to turn the shift star. If it is still tight, there is a problem.

A couple of things may be holding you up. I assume you removed the neutral detent setup from the top case? It is a spring loaded group of parts that drops into a divot in the shift drum when the drum is in the neutral position.

The dogs should slide freely. You should be able to twist the shift mechanism (looks like a starfish on the end of the shift drum) by hand before cases are put together. It may be that you have the transmission put together in a weird way, where the shift dogs aren't riding in the appropriate...

Does it not shift because the lever is hard to move, and the shift dogs won't slide? Or can you move the lever easily, but it won't click into gear? The transmission needs to be spinning to move it through the entire gear range.

Real paint is great. It costs real money, and means specific equipment like a compressor with appropriate filters, spray gun, respirator, etc. He claims money is tight.

Are you doing any powdercoating? Do the frame and the tank at the same time, and the black will match. Then paint a silver star, and clear with aerosol Spraymax 2K urethane. $20 a can, but it is catalyzed clearcoat. You could also use rattlecan black, rattlecan silver, and spraymax clear...

Machined and tapped a 3/8 NPT fuel bung, tigged it to the tank, filled two tank holes, powdercoated all the engine covers, made some mounting brackets on the CNC plasma, made some threaded bungs to weld into the frame, sandblasted one of the side covers, and put the clutch back together.

Paint is too easy :) I was really just trying to hide ALL the wiring. Run the plug wires in the backbone, etc. I've gotten myself in deep with the XS I'm rebuilding...