Recent content by Mannyroad

Thanks for that info gggGary. Much appreciated. My bike is apparently a June 1980. Presumably it will be fine for the 7 plate conversion.

The Alto plates sound interesting. I'm guessing they are only available in the States. Can you please send me a link? Might check out how much in total to post to UK. Would I be right thinking a 7 plate Alto set up will fit straight in the basket?

Mocking up the brackets for my forwards. I'm 6'0" so need to make sure it's comfy. Cheers. Feels like a lot of balls in the air at times though. Hope it's all worth it.

I did consider the Heiden 8 plate set which, as you say are thinner. I was told by a reputable UK source in the XS circles, that Heiden's thin plates "are crap, they warp, don't buy them". So I decided to go down the machining route and use the standard thickness EBC plates.

Currently trying to sort out the seat and forwards. I want to use a single mountain bike air shock for the seat but I bought a cheap one off Fleabay and it was useless because the spring was way too stiff. Has anyone got any suggestions for a 150-165mm shock that they know for sure won't be too...

This will be my head restraint, with brass washers for a bit of being. The other bits will be the rear mudguard mounts and brass washers for the head bolts.

Got the billet parts for the springers machined locally. This is my 3D model of the springers.

Found I had a problem with the supplied tank and mountings. Its so close to my forks they won't turn. Ended up having to grind off all the fixing brackets on the tank and make new ones, then plug the original mount holes in the frame and make new ones. Turned out OK in the end.

Began a new chop build after getting my frame a couple of months ago. Thought it might be of interest. The frame is a 32mm tubed Bar Hopper frame from Fenland Choppers. I've always wanted a bike with springers but wanted to have some that are a little different so decided to design my own after...

Hi all, Though I'd update you on my issue regarding the knackered Probe ignition for a rephased 270 big bore motor. Couldn't get any response from Mark Whitebook, so Probe system went in the bin. Had a discussion with Ant Benyon, at Pipes & Stuff, who supplies 277 TCI systems for the XS. He...

Well, obviously, but I was talking about 1K cans, which many people still tend to use.

Candies (& even more so, flourscents) will always fade over time as the inks are not UV stable. That's why using a good quality 2k lacquer, with UV stabilisation properties is essential on candy paint jobs. Rattle cans use a 1k lacquer (which I'm not a lover of and don't use) which, if I'm...

Yes, that's most likely the case. The choice of silver colour is also key to the final colour, and the flake size matters too.

Yep, you're thinking is correct, the spectrophotometer, a machine to colour match paints can't determine a mix for 3 stage paints (ground/candy/lacquer). The final colour is very dependent on the ground coat, the mix ratio for the candy (%concentrate to %binder - unless buying a ready for use...

Great, thanks Signal.