Recent content by The Standard

Much appreciated. A ton of options going forward on these plugs…

Is it possible to get a spark plug that is fouled or excessively dirty restored back to the point of 100% capacity like when it was new or once they are damaged they should be thrown out? The ask is for plugs with low/medium mileage and age. I have heard of cleaning with certain chemicals is...

Also on prior exhaust config. Head pipes were a Mac-type aftermarket not the stock double walled and slip-ons were a loud, low-restriction sort even with their small baffles in place.

Reporting back with “Field” observations with everything buttoned up on the installs. Referenced in another thread, I was chasing a minor exhaust leak at the head that I supplemented the exhaust gasket with some Permatex red - high temp. One side worked as hoped, other pipe seeing some similar...

@halfmile, you are right on with this approach. Where I want to go ultimately. Need to learn art of safety wiring first. Had this image for a while of a really good looking setup.

@5twins, What is interesting in looking at this photo where you responded to a related post, is that the exhaust gasket sits right up against the end of your 1.5” headpipes. On my headpipes that same style gasket slides past the end of the head pipe, up onto the pipe and is up against that...

@5twins, I am of the same opinion. I think that discoloration was exhaust seeping under the color. Yep, no weld bead all the way around the collar when looking at it from the end. We'll see if the sealer addresses this. Will be at the 24 hour cure mark by tomorrow. So used to just needing...

Has anyone employed or presently uses this approach to securing the Rear sprocket bolts as opposed to the Locking tabs? I know with the Red Loc-tite it will be a challenge breaking the bolts the next time there is a need. Assuming with a long 1/2" drive Pull bar, I should be able to overcome...

@gggGary, The pipes are standard run of the mill TT pipes offered by Dan at Pandemonium. They attach at rear via a flange on each that bolts together and then the right pipe secures to one of the Starter mounting holes. I ended up coating both sides of the exhaust gasket with Red Permatex...

Feeling over ambitious now wanting to squeeze more performance out of those BS34’s in enlarging the slide lift holes to 3mm to quicken carb responsiveness. Any experience with that endeavor?

Funny you mentioned this. I noticed a little bit of this, thinking it was a surge due to tune not being fully locked in. Didn’t go that high but definitely an increase and then would come back down some rpm. I’ll get a better gauge on this once tach is installed, pun intended. I don’t think...

Just getting to installing the tach for the first time. Will be able confirm speed although I presently set the idle somewhat high as I think the motor sounds better at stoplights but maybe not close to 1200 rpm. Thanks for insights on the Ignition system / HT lead independence. Good to know...

Added some new pipes that were supplied with the exhaust gaskets in pictures. Have some leakage and wanted to know is this type of gasket supposed to be oriented as pictured? I am used to the crush type gasket that butts up against the end of the pipe face and spreads against the exhaust port...

Thank you @5twins. Last confirmation on this as new to this subject matter. The bike has either a Boyer Bransden or Pertronix type ignition. Does anyone know if that type of setup would call for the extra resistance from the caps and resistor plugs? For the most part the bike runs great but...

Forgot to mention. I am running electronic ignition.