fusebox

jmcgowan · Mar 21, 2010

1st my headlight quit working, then the lights in the gauges, then all the lights (taillight, oil light). The battery was fine because the E-start still worked. All the fuses checked good. I cleaned all the connections and the taillight came back on. it wouldn't actually start (even with the kick start) so I figured the plugs weren't sparking. I ended up just replacing the 30 year old fuse box and fuses to the new style automotive blade fuses and charging the battery overnight and everything works again. Here's the part I used:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p348.html
Wired everything up with crimp on connectors. I had to move the box between the pods though, it won't fit under the seat. I'll get some pics later but it looks and works pretty sweet.
:thumbsup:

Travis · Mar 21, 2010

Cool. That's the first thing I do on all old Yamaha's when I get them home if they have electrical problems. I don't even mess around with the stock fuse panel thing.. I cut it out and label the wires and crimp .250 female spade connectors on all the wires. Then plug in automotive fuses directly to the spade connectors. It takes ten min, works, and doesn't take up any more space than the stock panel. Then later, If needed, I'll make a more permanent solution like the one you posted. :thumbsup:

jmcgowan · Mar 21, 2010

I have 2 extra circuits I could use, but I don't think the stock electrical system could handle it... so I'm using them as spare fuse holders.

angus67 · Mar 21, 2010

i have the napa 6-holer.. looks like it lays flater than that one.

matt81xs · Mar 21, 2010

thats pretty cool. I was actually having issues with the ignition fuse, bad corrosion on terminal ends. I think ill be doing the same swap for mine tomorrow as well as drilling out my clutch rod bushing....super fun

jmcgowan · Mar 21, 2010

matt81xs said:
thats pretty cool. I was actually having issues with the ignition fuse, bad corrosion on terminal ends. I think ill be doing the same swap for mine tomorrow as well as drilling out my clutch rod bushing....super fun

What does drilling out your clutch rod bushing do? Is that a useful mod, or is it just stuck and needs to be drilled out?

jmcgowan · Mar 21, 2010

angus67 said:
i have the napa 6-holer.. looks like it lays flater than that one.

I used the rubber strap that used to go over the old fusebox to hold a multi tool. The sidecovers still hide the fusebox I used. I had no idea NAPA sold one, I tried checker, autozone, and radioshack before I gave up and just ordered that one online. Could you post a link for the NAPA unit? I can't find it on their website.

Gordon · Mar 21, 2010

JMC, you more or less just 'dimple' the center of each end so that the ball bearings have a place to 'sit', instead of just pushing randomly on the end of the rod. Makes the rod a lot more stable, so in turn allot less wear & side pressure on the bush & seal.

weekendrider · Mar 21, 2010

jmcgowan said:
What does drilling out your clutch rod bushing do? Is that a useful mod, or is it just stuck and needs to be drilled out?

After time they wallow out and the push rod binds. Results in a harder pull on the handle. Not a tough job, but not for the timid. If you've gotten that far you are replacing the seal also.

dlabkeeg · Mar 21, 2010

jmcgowan said:
I used the rubber strap that used to go over the old fusebox to hold a multi tool. The sidecovers still hide the fusebox I used. I had no idea NAPA sold one, I tried checker, autozone, and radioshack before I gave up and just ordered that one online. Could you post a link for the NAPA unit? I can't find it on their website.

This is the one I got from Napa

inxs · Mar 22, 2010

Originally Posted by angus67
i have the napa 6-holer.. looks like it lays flater than that one.

weekendrider said:
After time they wallow out and the push rod binds. Results in a harder pull on the handle. Not a tough job, but not for the timid. If you've gotten that far you are replacing the seal also.

- you could also replace the shorter rods and 1 ball with the longer rod - it helps slow down the seal and bush wear

Gordon · Mar 22, 2010

INXS, that is the way I went. A whole lot easier pull, & with the end's of the rod dimpled, I don't suspect to be replacing the seal & bush again for a long time. The seal will probably dry out before it wears out.

Ironsled77 · Mar 22, 2010

So you guys are using these with the stock harness? I'm at the point where I need to start wiring my bike. I have been looking at the wiring diagrams trying to figure out which one to use on my bobber. I was going to get the ardcore fuse block but its 75 bucks the ones from Napa are looking more appealing . Do you guys got any other suggestions on a fuse block?

Visegrippe · Mar 22, 2010

i went to the local electronics store and picked a couple of 2 fuse blocks, with 2 spades each side of the fuses plus jumpers for 99 cents each. have them mounted to the front of the battery box. yeah, they aren't the automotive type fuses, but the original glass type.

i'll take some pics next time i'm down. my camera battery was dead last time...

denis · Mar 22, 2010

Im also in the process of redoing my wiring and im considering going with the same one jmcgowan went with.

@jmcgowan, hows the overall quality?

Ironsled77 · Mar 22, 2010

I am looking for the replica to the ardcore one with out the price. i know there out there just got to find one with out the mark up. was looking at painless and ron francis but cant reallly think of anywhere else.

matt81xs · Mar 22, 2010

so i never got around to drilling out the bushing today, too cold, only 50 degrees. My clutch was super tight and it had one heck of an oil leak. But i did go to napa and buy that fuse block, 19 bucks, came with the clear cover for the fuses, all i need is the terminal ends.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3204/3061/8009030022_large.jpg

jmcgowan · Mar 22, 2010

denis said:
Im also in the process of redoing my wiring and im considering going with the same one jmcgowan went with.

@jmcgowan, hows the overall quality?

So far I like it a lot. I would NOT order it from the link I posted, I ordered mine through them and was unhappy with the customer service/communication/time it took to get it.
That NAPA one looks nice to, I prefer the one I got because I'm not "electrically inclined" at all and it's just a straight forward swap. Cut all the wires at the current fusebox, the strip them, crimp on some insulated female connectors, and connect the wires to it. There are 8 wires, two pairs of 4 different colors. I believe they were solid red, red with yellow stripe, red with white stripe, and brown. Just hook up the matching colors across from each other. IE red to red, brown to brown, and so on. If you just wanted to replace the current fusebox with the exact same thing, radioshack sells them for under $4
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062258
I got all my fuses and connectors at the shack :thumbsup:

denis · Mar 23, 2010

sounds great, thanks for the heads up.

weekendrider · Mar 23, 2010

No muss no fuss. Like Travis's they lay right where the pos fusebox did.

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