Tayno's TX650A

jedi_ said:

Keep it up tayno! Lookin good

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Thanks jedi!

gggGary said:

http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html

You are right it is the fuel pickup for the choke, only on one carb that year.

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Great link Gary! The bs38 diaphragms are currently out of stock but I have sent them an email. Certainly alot better option then having to buy the whole slide!

Thanks also for confirming about that fuel pickup for the choke only being on the one side. Thats another small part I dont need to chase down. Very helpful mate!

Time for some inspiration pics...

Bratstyle Japan W650 Kawasaki





Basically where I want to go with my TX at the moment. Low bars, brat seat, small headlight, low forks, short shocks, no front fender, short rear fender, small compartment under seat, lots of black.

As far as bratstyle bikes go, they look simple, but I have seen quite a few photos of bikes that just havent hit the mark. So Ill occasionaly be posting inspiration pics in here to make sure Im on the right track.

Looking through this thread I noticed the slide had a lot of black on it. I can't say I know this; but I might be suspicious of the intake valve on that cylinder. If you haven't yet I would suggest you set valves and cam chain and test compression.

Tayno said:

I just used fuel and a toothbrush to clean them, I didnt have any carb cleaner around. I also tried to keep the fuel off the rubber parts, but assumed it wouldnt hurt them too much considering they are on a carb.

The fuel out the carbs might have been from flooding. The float in this carb was at 25mm, and the carb guide says 24mm +/-1mm for a TX so Im assuming that is ok.

Not sure if the drooping/sagging of the carbs off the engine would have affected that level but. Im not really keen on them just hanging there, so Im going to look into a may to brace them somehow.

Nice bike Aussie, burnt look on the frame is a nice touch.

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you might try pinesol use the brandname stuff it won't hurt rubber parts but need to keep diaphram out

gggGary said:

Looking through this thread I noticed the slide had a lot of black on it. I can't say I know this; but I might be suspicious of the intake valve on that cylinder. If you haven't yet I would suggest you set valves and cam chain and test compression.

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I havent yet checked those items Gary, but I will be going through them shortly so I will post back with the results. Im not quite across how those parts and clearances would effect the carb slide like that, but once I measure som figures Ill pop back in here to discuss.

terry l hendren said:

you might try pinesol use the brandname stuff it won't hurt rubber parts but need to keep diaphram out

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Terry I cant remember seeing a pinesol product in any of my local shops, but its not often I interrogate the cleaning isles. Ill have a look for it next time as I have alot of parts to clean, and after looking it up now, it seems quite popular. Thanks for the tip!

might try this to repair those diaphragms, can;t say how long repair would last but it's tough stuff
http://3mcollision.com/3m-black-super-weatherstrip-adhesive-03602-4250.html

a little dab will do ya

Hey Tayno, is this site great or what? and good on you for doin' this!

On the blackened slide: My concern is an intake valve that is not properly sealing allowing combustion products back through the carb.


Pinesol;
Yes cleaning supplies aisle I bought the house brand and have been very impressed with how well it works. I have not checked yet but if you have an old coffee maker or crock pot; pinesol in that with heat would make a great no cost carb cleaner. Warning; hot pinesol gives off a fair amount of noxious odor. As always do not soak carbs unless you are brave enough to remove the throttle shaft seals AND plan on replacing them. The pinesol bath works well for petcocks too.

Hey Tayno
I have repaired many diaphragms using "hondabond" it seems to hold well and I haven't noticed any problems. For that second tear you found I would use a thin piece of rubber or maybe a very thin innertube patch with the hondabond. In the past I used hondabond and a piece of plastic from an inflatable beach ball as a patch and the bike went 5,000 miles without any problems and then I sold it still running great. Hope you get it running man! Good luck

Here is my carb fitted, as per earlier discussion.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-er1mHo7y90k/TqtE2tB5pAI/AAAAAAAAAyU/Cd5u6H6ydJE/s1600/Carb_1198.jpg

For some reason the link buttons are not working for me today.

JBM Enterprises sells new diaphrams, much better quality than most. They sell the carb holders too.
Leo

jayel said:

might try this to repair those diaphragms, can;t say how long repair would last but it's tough stuff
http://3mcollision.com/3m-black-super-weatherstrip-adhesive-03602-4250.html

a little dab will do ya

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Interesting product Jayel, thanks for the link. Im not confident on repairing the diaphragms I have currently, they are feeling a little frail, and Id hate to repair them just to have another crack appear and cause me trouble again. Plus I'd probably spend $20 for an adhesive, and a new pair of diaphragms is $40 from the JBM site.

pregrid said:

Hey Tayno, is this site great or what? and good on you for doin' this!

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YES! This is exactly what I was hoping for when I came online looking for a helpful forum. Such a wealth of information amongst the members, and most impressive to me, is the willingness to share their knowledge! This speaks volumes about this forum and its members.

I also appreciate that, being a new member who has provided little to the forum to date, I have already received so much help. Through my learning and my skills, I hope that I can provide something of use for those members in return!

gggGary said:

On the blackened slide: My concern is an intake valve that is not properly sealing allowing combustion products back through the carb.

Pinesol;
Yes cleaning supplies aisle I bought the house brand and have been very impressed with how well it works. I have not checked yet but if you have an old coffee maker or crock pot; pinesol in that with heat would make a great no cost carb cleaner. Warning; hot pinesol gives off a fair amount of noxious odor. As always do not soak carbs unless you are brave enough to remove the throttle shaft seals AND plan on replacing them. The pinesol bath works well for petcocks too.

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Ill definetly have a look for the pinesol then, here's hoping that a mix of that will be cheaper then the fuel im currently using, and maybe nicer on the hands.
I dont plan on pulling the throttle shafts and seals out yet, Ill probably hold off that until that start leaking in the near future

dwain61 said:

Hey Tayno
I have repaired many diaphragms using "hondabond" it seems to hold well and I haven't noticed any problems. For that second tear you found I would use a thin piece of rubber or maybe a very thin innertube patch with the hondabond. In the past I used hondabond and a piece of plastic from an inflatable beach ball as a patch and the bike went 5,000 miles without any problems and then I sold it still running great. Hope you get it running man! Good luck

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Dwain, great use of the beach ball for the patch! If I couldnt get the diaphragms cheap from JBM, or they work out to be too expensive landed in Aus, Ill definetly be looking into something like that.

AussieHard said:

Here is my carb fitted, as per earlier discussion.

Carb pic

For some reason the link buttons are not working for me today.

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Yea I see that sits nice and flat. Ill take a photo when Im back at the bike next of how my left side is drooping slightly. It just seems to me that with the fineness of the carb and float settings, that a few millimeters of droop could be throwing something off?

XSLeo said:

JBM Enterprises sells new diaphrams, much better quality than most. They sell the carb holders too.
Leo

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I think my carb holders are in ok shape, I was worried about them because of the droop on one side, but I think they'll do. Will be getting the diaphragms from JBM but.

Ok, lets get back up to date!

Carbs are back on. Even though im needing a few o-rings and new diaphragms I wanted to get them back on and get the bike started to ensure that I hadnt missed anything when pulling them down, and that my electrical clean up hadnt caused any problems.

Much to my amazement, two kicks through with the ignition off, then ignition and choke on and it started second kick!!!! Awesome

BUT (there is always a but!) the idle was high, possibly higher then before, and it blew alot of white smoke out the exhaust, which it hadnt really done last time (the only time) it was running. So ill need to check back over the carb settings to lower the idle, and investigate this white smoke issue. Im assuming the white smoke is burning oil and might be something do the valves... NEED to check them!
Didnt take any pictures during all this, no one wants to see a smokey garage

BUT (another but) I did take pictures at the Historic motorcycle swap I went to last weekend. There was alot of cool stuff, some which I would have bought (light, tyre, small speedo) but im saving for an end of year holiday so these bits can wait. Plus it was mostly aesthetic stuff, and I want to get this puppy purring nicely before I spend too much on that!

Lots of cool tanks and fenders!


Swag of old bikes for sale


Nice XS for sale!


Only spotted the above and one other XS, both nice examples! The other was a black one sitting off to the side, I had a good look at it but didnt get a photo because it was partly covered by a jacket. Anyone on here?

Usually white smoke is unburned fuel in the exhaust. Smoke from burnt oil usually has a pretty clear blue color to it and the smell is unmistakable. Sounds like there is still something going on with those carbs.

http://www.monstercraftsman.com/xs650-billet-aluminum-intake-manifold/

Product Description
Get rid of your cracked and leaking rubber intake manifolds and replace them with our super trick CNC machined billet aluminum racing intakes from Tc Bros. These are very sturdy and improve flow to your motor. They are perfect when installing aftermarket carbs. Your stock rubber intakes are not designed to support your carbs without your stock airboxes installed causing them to crack over time.

Our aluminum intakes are much stronger and will not crack. Kit includes stainless steel hoseclamps that will never rust. These will fit aftermarket 34-36mm Mikuni VM Roundslide Carbs. Will not fit stock 34mm CV, stock 38mm, or Mikuni 38mm VM Roundslide Carb



Might be an answer to your problem.

dwain61 said:

Usually white smoke is unburned fuel in the exhaust. Smoke from burnt oil usually has a pretty clear blue color to it and the smell is unmistakable. Sounds like there is still something going on with those carbs.

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I think there is too. Ill have a play with them again to try and lower the idle and see if I cant figure out the over fueling.

AussieHard said:

Might be an answer to your problem.

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The carb holders themselves dont seem to be in too bad shape, and considering no one else seems to have problems with them Im hoping they will be ok. When the carbs are off again Im going to try and align them a bit better in the holders before I tighten them back up and see if that helps.

Ok back from a bit of a hiatus and back into this thing. Sorry for the lack of updates!

I had previously pulled apart the battery/elec box and pissed off the king&queen seat because they were pissing me off. Decided I needed to finish the seat, elec box and rear fender off so that I could start actually riding this thing and begin ironing out the bugs.

So I cut all the tabs off the rear section of the frame and made a cardboard template for an electrics box, based off the rounded front look of an old oil tank type thing. Got it to a fab mate of mine and he knocked it up for me out of alloy.



Welded some tabs on to secure the box and the rear fender. You can see how far I rotated the rear fender forward by the original circle mounting holes now just above the suspension mount.





If you remember from the start of the thread I picked up an old honda c90 seat for $30 which I wanted to try and modify to use. The original pan from that was rubbish so I got an offcut sheet of 1mm steel and made a new pan to the size I wanted. Please disregard my horrible metal working skills on the curved rear section, it was a nightmare trying to get it to shape around the rear fender.



I cut down the foam from the c90 seat to be flatter and narrower to suit my new pan, then did the best I could to put the old cover over it all the rivit it on.



Finished the seat and put some paint on the electrics box. the 'piping' from the old c90 seat didnt turn out too bad with the new shape either which was good.



Put a bit of paint on the frame to cover up the zinc spray and exposed metal. Ill re-do the whole frame at a later date once ive been riding for awhile.



Got the elec box, rear fender and seat all mounted together for the first time. Quite happy with the look and the seat seems reasonably comfortable just sitting on it. I would have liked the rear of the seat to be a bit flatter but its ok for the time being, Ill tweak that later. At least now I can get some rego on it and start riding hopefully.



Sorry for the bad photos, night time with a phone camera will do that. In the last photo you can also see my tail light and number plate bracket hanging off the rear axle too.

white smoke, if real thick... is a sign of shot valve stem seals. My 74 looked a mosquito fogger till i replaced the steam seals. so bad i was scared to ride it. Blue is also oil, but oil getting burnt. Oil seeping onto hot valve stems is whiiite.

nice bike.

CDNTX650 said:

white smoke, if real thick... is a sign of shot valve stem seals. My 74 looked a mosquito fogger till i replaced the steam seals. so bad i was scared to ride it. Blue is also oil, but oil getting burnt. Oil seeping onto hot valve stems is whiiite.

nice bike.

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Ill definitely check out the stem seals then, thanks for the tip!

I'm also going to try and find a stock air box for this to get it going easier. I'm not experienced (and patient) enough yet to persevere with trying to get the jetting right with the pods. I'd rather have it running smoother for the time being while I iron out everything else, before I chase more performance.

So if anyone knows of some 74-76 stock air box's kicking around, I'd love to know about them!