bret
'81 Special
I was driving down the road and my clutch cable snapped on me. I ordered a new one from Mikes and I was wondering if I could install it myself instead of taking it to a shop.
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Is it hard to put a new clutch cable on? Mine snapped
OakBehringer
XS650 Guru
Yes. Just memorize the old one's routing before you remove it. The cable you ordered has a reputation for being real weak, although the majority of Mike's stuff is fine. When my cable pulled loose at the lever I ordered a Motion Pro cable from somewhere, which is real thick.
On your new cable, before you install it, work motor oil down it until it comes out the other end.
On your new cable, before you install it, work motor oil down it until it comes out the other end.
+1 on the Motion pro cable...much better plus an excellent company to deal with. I ordered a throttle cable that was suppose to fit a 77 but the little metal tube was the wrong angle. They sent me the correct cable and told me to just keep the old one. Great customer service IMO.
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
its very easy to do
bret
'81 Special
this is good news to hear. i appreciate all the responses. i've already ordered the cable from mikes because i needed it asap, as my bike is my only form of transportation. i will just have to deal with it's weakness for now
bret
'81 Special
how about a haynes manual?
xscessivecompulsive
Live 2 Ride, Ride 2 Live
Its a piece of cake, plus you'll get to spend some time learning about your bike! And like xjwmx stated work a little oil though it to get the most life out of it!
XsC
XsC
bret
'81 Special
I'm not sure what it means to "work a little oil through it." Can you explain?
CDNTX650
XS650 Guru
you should buy a manual.....like asap. Old bikes unless recently restored or went through WILL give you trouble here and there...
Put oil down it before you put it on. I like ATF, not to heavy, and it cleans too.
Put oil down it before you put it on. I like ATF, not to heavy, and it cleans too.
On a cable that's off the bike, I hang it and put a few drops of oil at the top where the cable enters the sheath, let it sink in, add a few more, etc. It takes 10 or 15 minutes, but eventually the oil will start coming out the bottom, it's a gravity thing, lol. In fact, I just built myself a little "cable oiling station". It allows me to hang 5 or 6 cables at once and let the oil and gravity do it's thing.
bret
'81 Special
ok so i got to the part where the cable goes into the engine box. what do i do here? i feel like i'm not supposed to just yank it out lol.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Take the side cover off, remove the old one and pop the new one on.
bret
'81 Special
the cable goes down into the engine box though. i don't see how removing the side cover would help me. can you explain more?
^Take the two nuts holding the foot peg bracket off and pry the bracket off. Take the bolt out of the shift lever and pry it off. Take a hex key and remove the left side cover. Note where the two extra-long screws went. Pull off the cover, not losing the ball bearing inside the thing with the spring on it. Remove the cable from the mechanism there. Put the new cable on the same way. Button 'er all back up. A little grease will help the foot peg bracket go back on. If you have the time and inclination take the mechanism with the spring on it apart and grease it good. Also good to check the tightness of the sprocket nut while you're in there. They're often finger tight.
bret
'81 Special
i appreciate the help xjwmx. i'll let you know how it goes.
bbillington
blorp a dorp dorp
I have an extra manual, Bret. If you have paypal, you can send me enough to cover shipping and I'll send it to you.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Make sure you adjust the clutch correctly after you install the new one. Both at the worm and lever. The new cables tend to stretch a bit, so some extra adjustment will be needed.
And the foot pegs are a little tight to get off due to the rubber bushings holding them on. Try not to pry so hard as to rip them up. They are usually torn though. Best to pry in the middle, between the bolts/bushings while pulling on the foot peg itself, back and forth.
Same goes when you reinstall them. Be easy with them. The foot peg mounting bolts want to jam into the rubber. Try not force them too much.
And the foot pegs are a little tight to get off due to the rubber bushings holding them on. Try not to pry so hard as to rip them up. They are usually torn though. Best to pry in the middle, between the bolts/bushings while pulling on the foot peg itself, back and forth.
Same goes when you reinstall them. Be easy with them. The foot peg mounting bolts want to jam into the rubber. Try not force them too much.
^Shouldn't need to adjust at the case unless he takes it apart there to grease it. Will need to adjust at the lever though.
Here's my clutch cable trauma from a few months ago.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11952
Here's my clutch cable trauma from a few months ago.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11952
There is a thin metal tang that keeps the cable from falling out of the arm you do not need to bend that tang out of the way. It's just a bit of a Chinese puzzle but you can get the cable out of the arm without bending the tang. While you are in there a couple of notes the arm is attached to the ramp assembly the center of the ramp where the clutch push rod goes in has a ball bearing in there. It isn't supposed to be able to fall out, but it can. Watch for it, make sure it stays in place, adab of grease will help keep it where it belongs. The ramp is often a dirty mess and cleaning it and greasing it can help you have smooth easy clutch operation. The clutch push rod has about 1" rubber seal around it where it goes into the engine case. This seal is notorious for leaking, if everything inside the cover is a thick greasy mess the seal is your prime suspect. It's worth checking while the cover is off. Also check the nut holding the sprocket on, the sprocket and the nut should be tight, with no wiggle or play if it is loose it will also cause an oil leak.
Hit the foot peg mounting rubbers with WD40 or the like wiggle them a little to work the lube in and they come off much easier. A flat bar behind the foot peg arm helps remove it.
Hit the foot peg mounting rubbers with WD40 or the like wiggle them a little to work the lube in and they come off much easier. A flat bar behind the foot peg arm helps remove it.
