How do you polish the valve cover?

desmodromic

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I'm looking for tips/tricks on how to polish the valve cover, since its not a flat surface and it has several spaces that are tricky to get to. Products/ tools that you used would be great.
Thanks
 
Do you mean the 4 little valve covers or the whole top of the head? I don't polish the top of the head, just glass bead it for that like-new raw aluminum look. For the valve covers and any other smooth aluminum parts (fork legs, side covers, rims, hubs), I lightly sand or polish with 3M Roloc discs to remove corrosion, nicks, scratches, etc. then buff.
 
Sand, then sand, sand some more.. don't forget to sand.

Depending on the surface condition start sanding with anywhere from 120 grit to 320 grit. Then work your way up to 2000 for the best finish. Then start using a polish. At this point you can use a polishing compound or the polishing rouges then a compound.

I like to wet sand with every grit, keeps dust down, keeps debris out of my sand paper. As for the polish you can use just about anything from Mothers polish to Wheel polish. I found some stuff at a trucker store called Wicked Polish. Its a wet polish and it works really really well.
 
120? I thought thats kinda harsh. I usually do not like to go under 220. I might try 150 to get the nasty gunk off first, but how do you get in the tiny crevices. A Dremel polishing kit? I might give that a try. Thanks for the help guys.
 
start by using paint stripper to get the rest of the clear off them. Otherwise it smears around and clogs paper and buffing disks. Caswells black compound bar on coarse buffing wheel then white bar on a soft pad see yourself finish when done. Caswells also sells a buffer adapter that fits on an angle grinder gets in lots of places and the least expensive way to get a fast buffing action.
 
Caswells also sells a buffer adapter that fits on an angle grinder gets in lots of places and the least expensive way to get a fast buffing action.

I just use a 5/8-11 Union nut

http://www.lowes.com/pd_142077-3767...rentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=5%2F8-11+nut&facetInfo=

With a couple of 5/8 washers, and an appropriate 5/8-11 bolt. The hole through most 4-5" buffs is ~5/8, so the buff registers nicely.

My air compressor cannot run a die grinder for the small stuff. I typically have to take my parts to a friend's place/shop to get the detail work done. That sucks.
 
I found a good trick on one of the aluminum polishing forums (yes, they exist). Start out with around a 220 grit to get the pitting and scratches out. Sand in a straight line, no circular motion. Then move up to a 400 grit and sand at a 90 degree angle from your 220 grit strokes. Keep on sanding with the 400 until you can see NO scratches from the 220 grit. Go up to a 600, 800, and 1000 grit, each time sanding at 90 degrees to the previous grit. Once you have done the 1000, you are ready to use a buffing wheel with polishing compound.
 
My new polishing friend is the Scotchbrite pads made to go in a drill or die grinder. They come in different grits. The color designates the application. I found that blue, gray and brown work best. brown is designed for steel but does fast work on aluminum. They come in different diameters too. The device to hold them can ad up the total bill but these are time savers and do the job that the pros do. By pass many sanding steps with these. You will need a Roloc arbor to hold them. 2 and 3" are common. Here is a link to see one of many places that sell them on the internet. I am lucky to live in an artea that has lots of supply outlets for the marine and auto industry so i can walk in and buy each as needed. They cost $2-$3 each and last a long time if you treat them right. Once you get good with them you can even get a nice burnished finish that looks great without the final polish. Clean up your side covers in 20 minutes. A great tool. I use to make my own with carpet tape and standard green scotchbrite pads cut to fit.

Brown is coarse, blue medium, gray fine.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_scotchbrite_roloc_surface_conditioning_disc_07513.cfm
 
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Yes, the Roloc discs. I've started using them as well and they work great. I find the medium (maroon color) is about as aggressive as I want to go on aluminum. They will remove deep scratches and gouges in a jiffy. I've started buying them off eBay, much cheaper. I just got a bag of 50 1" fine (blue) for $15. The boxes of 25 2" can be routinely had for about $20. The very fine (gray) work best on aluminum for general cleaning and polishing.
 
Yes, the Roloc discs. I've started using them as well and they work great. I find the medium (maroon color) is about as aggressive as I want to go on aluminum. They will remove deep scratches and gouges in a jiffy. I've started buying them off eBay, much cheaper. I just got a bag of 50 1" fine (blue) for $15. The boxes of 25 2" can be routinely had for about $20. The very fine (gray) work best on aluminum for general cleaning and polishing.

I think you have the grit designation right with the colors as they are sold. I just call them as I use them since they reccomend the brown/maroon for steel. They even make these cupped brush tools that cost about $10 each but fit into odd shaped areas and do great work. After every polish job I always say I with pay a pro to do it next time but it ain't cheap so I dive in again. I do miss the large diameter, high HP buffing wheels they use mounted on long arbor motors. If I can tell you about how many times I bounced my almost finished piece off the pad attaching nut and made a mess out of the job.
 
does anyone have any suggestions about a specific grinder or buffer? The link at xs650choppers takes you to a video where the guy talks about using an angle grinder with a buffing wheel, but I don't see where they make specific angle grinder buffing wheels. I'd like to get a buffer, but they're so expensive, and the grinders really limit you in terms of how close you can get the bigger pieces on the wheel. I live near a Sears, HD and HF isn't that far.
 
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