oil filter

i just wish there was a less obtrusive filter, if i did this to my hillclimber a sagebrush or rock would probably rip it right out fast.
 
i just wish there was a less obtrusive filter, if i did this to my hillclimber a sagebrush or rock would probably rip it right out fast.

There is a remote filter option that could be mounted higher/out of the way but you would still need some way to protect the fittings and hoses.

That said, how many miles do you put on a hillclimb bike? Is additional filtration even a concern?
 
On a hillclimber stay with the stock set up. You probably change the oil often enough to not need the extra filtration of any mods.
Not only the miles, but how long at a time does it run at one time? 2 minutes? 5? Then it sets till the next run.
The abuse of hillclimbing gives an engine, I doubt better filtration will be cost effective.
Leo
 
On a hillclimber stay with the stock set up. You probably change the oil often enough to not need the extra filtration of any mods.
Not only the miles, but how long at a time does it run at one time? 2 minutes? 5? Then it sets till the next run.
The abuse of hillclimbing gives an engine, I doubt better filtration will be cost effective.
Leo

Its mostly prolonged idling and then full throttle for 30 seconds to 5 minutes depending on climb, i would like the extra filtration of a paper element as compared to the screen type stock one. you dont get enough wind to utilize an oil cooler either. i do like the idea of extra oil capacity so i was pondering the idea of an external sump. any ideas on that?
 
If you search "oil coolers" you will find a right side cover adaptation that puts fitting in the cover to run oil lines out to an oil cooer or oil filter. I have one set up so I can run both.
The fittings set between the cover and header. pretty well protected. The lines run from there over between frame and engine, still protected. From there you can run the lines anywhere. Up over the engine, under tank to behind the engine. Mount the filter there.
Many big oil filters out there that hold a quart of oil.
You can get mounts that hold one or two filters. That could add 2 quarts oil capacity.
Leo
 
OMG What a thread….my head is spinning!

I havn't changed my oil yet and am thinking I should as i have no idea what the PO may have done or how long it has been there. Since he had been riding it with no oil in the forks and holes drilled in them I hate to think.

What is the best way to clean and reuse the filters? How long do you estimate it will take for a first time. Would like to do a change of oil check, refit. Then buy what parts are needed. No point buying filters to find once open there is some mod and I need something diff.

Any oil recommendations?

D.
 
OMG What a thread....my head is spinning!

I havn't changed my oil yet and am thinking I should as i have no idea what the PO may have done or how long it has been there. Since he had been riding it with no oil in the forks and holes drilled in them I hate to think.

What is the best way to clean and reuse the filters? How long do you estimate it will take for a first time. Would like to do a change of oil check, refit. Then buy what parts are needed. No point buying filters to find once open there is some mod and I need something diff.

Any oil recommendations?

D.

The strainer/pickup filter can be reused if it is not broken. If broken, some repair with JB Weld, I replace and add a shield.

The main oil filter (located in the right engine cover) cannot be reused and must be replaced.
 
Its mostly prolonged idling and then full throttle for 30 seconds to 5 minutes depending on climb, i would like the extra filtration of a paper element as compared to the screen type stock one. you dont get enough wind to utilize an oil cooler either. i do like the idea of extra oil capacity so i was pondering the idea of an external sump. any ideas on that?

External sump would be hard as the rod end bearings are lubed by splash.
 
Aussie, Both the stock sump filter and the side cover filter are of a brass screen construction. Both can be cleaned and reused.
I use Kerosene as a cleaner. Any good degreaser will work. Even Dawn liquid dish washing soap will work. Get them clean and dry.
To drain the oil, clean the filters, patch up the sump filter, reinstall every thing, the first time can take a day or so. You want to let the JB Weld patch cure fully.
After that less than an hour.
You might want to get a new sump filter to replace the torn one, it will save you some time. Once you get the old one off, replace with new, button it all up and ride.
Fix the old one at your leisure.
Next oil change just swap the filters and clean sometime before the next oil change.
You can buy both filters new and just swap clean for dirty, clean anytime.
As far as oil most any good Motorcycle specific oil is a good option.
Some like Rotella 15w40 deisel oil.
Lots of threads about this. A search will find lots of info.
Leo
 
Thanks guys,

Yeah I been reading some threads, but sometimes this site has TOO MUCH info……I get had to wade through all the detailed tech info and personal experiences to get some basic info.

Still better to have a greater resource of info than to little.
 
I run both the external sump spin on filter kit and billet "cooler" with paper filter with a plus 50% oil pump.
Result so far has been a clean, quiet running engine with plenty of oil being pushed around.
I only went this way after rebuilding the engine due to a failed crankshaft bearing and decided I wanted no more lubrication problems, perhaps overkill, but for the price I got piece of mind.
 

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I have an extra sump plate I got in a parts assortment off eBay. I really like having it. It allows me to keep a clean, ready-to-install sump plate/filter assembly on hand. I also have an extra side filter. At oil changes, the dirty filters come out and are set aside for later cleaning. The spare clean ones go in and the change is completed in no time. If you shop around on eBay, you can usually score a sump plate w/filter still attached (but usually torn) for about $20. A little JB Weld patch work to the torn filter and you're all set.
 
- this is not a bad alternative to remote spin on auto filters as spoken about above for deep set hard tails...the deep set spin on filter i use on my bike, although not as deep as the pipes, would be disastrous for these applications

sorry I may have missed something in the middle of all the differing of opinions but I'm a noob and not sure what you meant by this inxs? Are you saying that you wouldn't recommend the external sump for low hardtails? I feel like I'm misreading something here. Anyway I'm looking to build a cafe/tracker with a little off pavement time here and there. Would you recommend the external sump or not? Has anyone switched to an internal sump like shown with the bmw cartridge? All in all thanks for this abundance of knowledge and alternatives.
 
@ highspeed: Wow, that magnet works well with all those shavings

Oh ya.. worked well.

The crank was really fine (bearings) but got rebuilt anyways. (Hey its apart right?)
I think the majority of those shavings are from the tappets and valves (also replaced) because like the crank, everything else didnt really look worn.
 
plattey, the type of filter shouldn't cause more or less valve rain noise. The oil pump is what might effect that. The stock pump, if not excessively worn should do just fine.
If you used a filter that restricked oil flow very much then the oil pump might not be able to do it's job as well, but I don't think most any filter that you use wsill have much effect on the amount of oil the pump draws from the sump and sends out to the engine.
Leo
 
Paint thinner works fine. MikesXS or any Yamaha dealer sell the OEM style side filter don't forget gaskets for both covers.
 
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