Aerosol Painting

To start off I am no painter. Though with that in mind, I have seen many people on the

internet paint their bikes or touch up their cars with good quality aerosol spray cans. I will

soon be building a bike myself and would like to paint it with this method, but I'm

completely clueless of correct paints/ primers/ clear coats to buy. Could someone help

me? -thanks

This is what i saw others using on the internet, but I want to be sure:

http://www.touchupspraypaint.com/rm_aeromax_urethane_clearcoat_118_oz.php

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/perfectMatch/

!

Hi,
It can be done with decent results. However preperation is the key. Basically, primer, colour coat and clear. Around three costs each.
That said - I now take all my painting to my pro. I have acknowledged I am a good engineer but a shite painter!

My bike was painted with high quality automotive grade rattle cans. The frame is eastwood extreme chassis black and the tins are lil Daddy Roth rattle bombs over Spraymax high build primer sealer. Even the lines on the tins are spray paint sprayed thru a $15 HF airbrush. Everything is covered in Spraymax 2K clear. Like anything else, its what's under the paint that counts. Use quality primers and prep solvents and your result will turn out great. I've read horror stories about guys using rustoleum primer under Roth paints. Why you would do that is beyond me. One thing to keep in mind is that most touch up paints and clears are not fuel resistant. You must use a good two part catalyzed paint for fuel protection. Thats the one thing I regret not doing on my frame, as the Eastwood paint doesn't play nice with gas...

yeah, look at my restoration thread,
I absolutely suggest taking it to a shop, it took me almost a month and a half of cure times, and that was after the weeks of prep...
then weeks of waiting for spray max 2k clear in the mail which you NEED or your paint will get toasted,
all in all my frame and parts cost me almost 300 dollars to paint or more with supplies I am most likely forgetting,

so pro's
you did it yourself,
and thats about it,
con's,
takes a LOOOOOONG time to do it right,
costs almost the same if not more if you mess up,
and unless you have a clean room, the clear is damn hard...

Took me about a week total to paint my bike. Thats with the frame and bump work on the tins. Yeah, the clear was still a little soft when I was assembling the bike, but it still gets tons of compliments, and people can't believe it's a rattle can job.

Stop by an automotive paint supply store and have a chat with the staff there. When I did a bunch of work on my wifes vehicle they helped me out a ton and things turned out really well. They will help you pick paints that are compatible and suggest some cure times etc.

Duplicolor products are good for rattle can, but you are going to want an epoxy or polyurethane top coat, especially on the tank. Modern gas is more of a solvent than gas used to be, and it'll pot laquer and most enamels in he hurt locker pretty quick.

This is my last rattle can job. It lasted ten years, and I didn't use any clear. Used Krylon from Wal-mart. It's almost all in the prep. You need a clean well lighted area to work, and pick a dry day with low humidity to spray. Keep an even temperature during the curing time. Don't rush on assembly. Yes, gas will eat the paint if left on it, but a good wax will retard the effects and give you time to clean the area before any damage is done.
I put an image in here but don't look like it's showing up.

Here's a link to the image.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...303379736293.169752.1040701848&type=3&theater

On the topic of pain. I have side covers to paint. I want to match the original color which was called brillient red. I have a 1972 XS2. Can someone get me a paint color or info on matching this up?