jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
It's not really "ruining " the rods. Once you try them, you'll never go back to a stock setup!
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I'm here to tell you, once the setup is dialed in, it's like a new bike. To me, it is the most worthwhile modification to one of these old bikes. I would never undo it! Just the same, I can't. The damper rods are ruined.
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
"Modified", Marty, modified!
Besides, you can braize the holes shut. It's been done.
Besides, you can braize the holes shut. It's been done.
650hcs
Addict
Hey jd750ace, can you give me some info on emulators and springs and where to get them. I dont really understand what they do
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
http://racetech.com/page/id/30
Here's the FAQ page at Race Tech. They invented the cartridge emulator in 1993. Mikes sells a knock off. gggGary has a Mike's set in some 35MM forks right now, and they seem to be working well for him. Considerably less from Mikes, but not he same over the horn support you can get from Race Tech. Straight rate springs should be available from Race Tech or Traxxion Dynamics. Race Tech is all I have experience with on straight rate springs and emulators. Here is the product page for the 34MM forks. They are not high demand, so the springs and valves are a little higher than say, 35, 38, 41, or 43 MM kits.
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Yamaha/XS650/1971-76
Take the part numbers to E-bay. Some pretty good price breaks can be had.
Here's the FAQ page at Race Tech. They invented the cartridge emulator in 1993. Mikes sells a knock off. gggGary has a Mike's set in some 35MM forks right now, and they seem to be working well for him. Considerably less from Mikes, but not he same over the horn support you can get from Race Tech. Straight rate springs should be available from Race Tech or Traxxion Dynamics. Race Tech is all I have experience with on straight rate springs and emulators. Here is the product page for the 34MM forks. They are not high demand, so the springs and valves are a little higher than say, 35, 38, 41, or 43 MM kits.
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Yamaha/XS650/1971-76
Take the part numbers to E-bay. Some pretty good price breaks can be had.
So far so good on the MikesXS pieces. Having put a few miles on a ZX14 this year I have been ruined as far as handling. But hope springs eternal, I'm considering seeing how decent I can get a 650 to handle while keeping "traditional hotrod" looks. High on the list will be some better tires. The Shinkos I threw on the 79 work "just fine". But those Michelin Pilot Road 3s on the 14 whoo hoo! I am now itching to try the Pirelli Sport Demon or Michelin Pilot Activ tires that come in XS650 appropriate sizes. Alas it will have to be a "next summer" trial. Gotta get the 73 buttoned up and off the lift before I can put something more "fun" up there.
650hcs
Addict
Thanks guys, good info
Gary, I'm with you on those road3s. When I decided to fix up my old XS my goal statement was "how can I make this thing worth riding today?". I already loved the look, I don't need to do anything there, but riding it is like a completely different sport than riding a modern bike. This is an old one with heavy steel rims, heavy drum brake up front, heavy STEEL not aluminum fork lowers, and the thinest fork uppers. Hitting a bump at anything close to highway speed felt like you got punched in the gut, literally took your breath away for a second. I would hit the same one every day on my way home from work and brace myself for impact. Riding the same strip of highway on even a low budget modern bike I was hard pressed to even identify where that bump had been! Plus the xs was a mushy, wandering, pogo stick just going around highway clover leaf.
I decided to find out what it could do with the dual compound radial tires we have now and the 40 years of suspension development available today. The first thing I bought was a set of rims that would run the road3s.
I decided to find out what it could do with the dual compound radial tires we have now and the 40 years of suspension development available today. The first thing I bought was a set of rims that would run the road3s.
650hcs
Addict
hey greasyc, what year do you got? I didnt know the older ones had steel fork lowers.
650hcs
Addict
just ordered some fork braces from gordonscott engineering, he is a member here and makes a fork brace for a good price, cant wait to put it on
scott s
XS650 Guru
The guard acts as a brace and as 5twins says, the 34mm forks are small enough without removing the guard but i like what has been done in these pics using the original guard and re-braces the forks. Don't know if it is as good as the original guard but would have to be close and looks good.
Can't remember whose bike this is but a nice job
I'm pretty sure that's one of these fork braces and he used the original fender mounting hardware to mount the shortened fender. Nicely done.
pcoumbe
BicolXS650
I use Hagon rear shocks, brass swing arm bushes, RaceTech emulators with fork springs from MMM, tapered roller headstock bearings, Tarozzi fork brace, wider than stock bars and Pirelli tires on Mikes XS performance rims.
The only improvement I'd like to make would be to lose the dual disc brake setup and go with a lighter upgraded system from MMM. Maybe later as I can live with it the way it is now and it goes around corners well and handles the rough road surfaces here well with 30psi pressures front and back. It also stops well, just a little heavy in the front wheel.
The only improvement I'd like to make would be to lose the dual disc brake setup and go with a lighter upgraded system from MMM. Maybe later as I can live with it the way it is now and it goes around corners well and handles the rough road surfaces here well with 30psi pressures front and back. It also stops well, just a little heavy in the front wheel.
Attachments
650hcs, you won't get performance handling out of those cheap gas shocks; they're too short (you need at least 13.25" eye-to-eye to quicken the steering and make it more linear), and the way the Monzas valved, they'll dance you to the outside of your line in a bumpy corner.
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Hi,
I got my forks and seals all pulled yesterday and was going to drill my dampers for the emulator change. the instructions say that the new holes should be 10mm longitudinally. this is not what the existing holes are at. they are more like 6.5mm between centers longitudinally and 10mm edge to edge. the picture shows them at the same spacing as the original 4 holes.
How did you drill yours?
I got my forks and seals all pulled yesterday and was going to drill my dampers for the emulator change. the instructions say that the new holes should be 10mm longitudinally. this is not what the existing holes are at. they are more like 6.5mm between centers longitudinally and 10mm edge to edge. the picture shows them at the same spacing as the original 4 holes.
How did you drill yours?
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It doesn't matter where you drill the holes, so long as the damper rod maintains structural integrity. You need at least 6 quarter inch holes. Swiss cheese is OK. The damper rod must be made to no longer function as originally intended.
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
+1. Cheese works. It's the total area of hole that is created that determines when you have eliminated the original function.
