Leejin
XS650 Enthusiast
I want to get a combined Reg/Rectifier. For now, I can't really afford to get the Hughes PMA, but I plan on that too. I'm going to hopefully get this all wired up tonight and just get back to riding.. I'm going nuts.
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some wiring diagrams
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I want to get a combined Reg/Rectifier. For now, I can't really afford to get the Hughes PMA, but I plan on that too. I'm going to hopefully get this all wired up tonight and just get back to riding.. I'm going nuts.
ducktoo1
XS650 Enthusiast
The automotive term is condenser.
Aren't those combined rec/regs over $100.00?
For the 70 to 79 years, with stock alternator, its much cheaper to use a VR-115 regulator and make up your own rectifier as I mentioned before. Total cost maybe $40.00.
Leejin
XS650 Enthusiast
What about grabbing one from a banshee or something similar? I remember seeing a thread or comment about which ones worked, but I can't seem to find it.
The alternators/charging systems fall into 2 categories with these bikes..........1970 to 1979, and 1980 to 1983. Since your bike falls into the first category, I suggested you use a VR-115 regulator, because it electrically matches the 1970 to 79 years.
As I understand it, the Banshee uses a PMA, so that would not be compatible with a stock yamaha alternator which uses an electro-magnet alternator.
Leejin
XS650 Enthusiast
Here is a VR-115 on Amazon. The wiring is all different, right? do I just use the Green, Black, and Brown/Orage wire? Remove the others?
How can I just "make a 3-Phase Rectifier"? I have experience with electronics to a certain extent.. but I have no idea where to begin with that.
Here's the link on making a 3 phase rectifier:
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/3473/rectifier-replacement-6-58
With the VR-115, you have to cut off the 4 pin connector. I used a new 3 pin connector, so that it would plug directly into the stock harness. The orange and yellow both connect to the brown wire in the stock harness (same wire that runs from the load side of the ignition switch to the fuse panel input). The VR-115 green is connected to the left (outer) brush on the alternator. The VR-115 black must connect to a bare metal ground on the frame (do not connect to the battery box) ,or to the common black wire that runs through the wiring harness.
Here's a pic of my rectifier I made up. I used a 6 pin connector, again so it would plug into the stock harness (only 5 pins wired). I used an old amplifier heat sink that I had in my spare parts bin, but some simply use a flat piece of aluminum.
A pic of my regulator also attached.
Attachments
Killjack
XS650 Member
thanks so much. so it's looking to me like this is the solution. i love the simplicity of the fuse block. if you get a chance check this one out and let me know if anything here looks wonky.
and if any of you guys are looking for one of these fuse blocks Amazon has them for under $10 currently. http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-1...KLNQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330501527&sr=8-1
hey guys could some one please show me how a pamco e-advancer would wire into this diagram? i joined the forum specifically to ask this question. thanks.
Did you not read post # 434 on the previous page?
Also see: http://www.yamahaxs650.com/Installtion of E-Advancer.htm
Kydd
XS650 Member
I just skimmed through all 23 pages and didn't find a simple easy to understand diagram for what I'm looking for. So I drew up my own after trying to decipher all these other ones. Here's what I came up with that makes sense to me. I'd like any feedback on the layout please (don't mind the colors used). It's for a 1980, keeping E starter, and just head/tail light
Leejin
XS650 Enthusiast
I just skimmed through all 23 pages and didn't find a simple easy to understand diagram for what I'm looking for. So I drew up my own after trying to decipher all these other ones. Here's what I came up with that makes sense to me. I'd like any feedback on the layout please (don't mind the colors used). It's for a 1980, keeping E starter, and just head/tail light
Dude! This is exactly my setup. Thanks a bunch man. I can't figure out adding a front break switch though. I'm great at most technical things, but wiring electronics eludes me.
Kydd
XS650 Member
well with my limited knowledge it would make sense to me that you could splice the signal leads from each switch together into the bulb lead on light. Then send the other lead from each switch to their own fuse or piggyback them to same fuse. That's as best I could come up with. my diagram above is purposely using just 1 brake switch
Craft518
n00b
So I am ready to slim down and rewire my 1980 hard tail this month. After this weeks inspection in NY I was able to pass without blinkers so that sparked the thought of reducing the loom. Since wiring is the last avenue I must travel down on this bike I just have a few questions that I'm sure will be easily answered, but I still have to ask. Keep in mind if you decide to respond I would like to keep the electric start as well as the kick start, I will have a full sized battery and I do not plan on running a PMA kit. Also I'm comfortable adding neutral, high beam and speedo metering lights so no worries there…
On the diagram below it says 1981 but I'm certain 99% of this looks the same as my 1980 special. The questions I have are these:
1. The blue/white from the starter solenoid goes to a starter switch, correct?
2. Are the two relays pictured below needed? I'm fairly certain the round is blinker relay/cancel and can be removed but unsure about the square one.
3. I assume lighting reserve is coming off. Will it affect the headlight, dimming etc.
4. There is a gold "device" that is hidden in a fake oil bag right now that seems to house two relays. I believe it is a safety relay but I don't see it on the wiring diagram anywhere nor do I have any safety switches on the kickstand or anything. Is it important for shutting of the starter?? Please advise.
5. From the battery it shows a "Power Outlet" stupid as this may sound…What is that and where do I hook it up? Does this literally mean a place to plug my phone charger up to? Because I don't see it on any other diagram.
(EDIT: found that this is just an outlet as I thought sorry)
I have already switched to blade fuses and I have a good idea of what I want to do but any advise on these questions would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to miss something, have the bike fire at home, them drive somewhere and realize it didn't charge correctly or something crazy like that.
Thanks in advance for any help guys/gals.
On the diagram below it says 1981 but I'm certain 99% of this looks the same as my 1980 special. The questions I have are these:
1. The blue/white from the starter solenoid goes to a starter switch, correct?
2. Are the two relays pictured below needed? I'm fairly certain the round is blinker relay/cancel and can be removed but unsure about the square one.
3. I assume lighting reserve is coming off. Will it affect the headlight, dimming etc.
4. There is a gold "device" that is hidden in a fake oil bag right now that seems to house two relays. I believe it is a safety relay but I don't see it on the wiring diagram anywhere nor do I have any safety switches on the kickstand or anything. Is it important for shutting of the starter?? Please advise.
5. From the battery it shows a "Power Outlet" stupid as this may sound…What is that and where do I hook it up? Does this literally mean a place to plug my phone charger up to? Because I don't see it on any other diagram.
(EDIT: found that this is just an outlet as I thought sorry)I have already switched to blade fuses and I have a good idea of what I want to do but any advise on these questions would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to miss something, have the bike fire at home, them drive somewhere and realize it didn't charge correctly or something crazy like that.
Thanks in advance for any help guys/gals.
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I really like the diagram posted by Minidanzig with the photos of the parts, so I modified it to fit my needs. I am not running a PMA (yet) so I substituted the factory stator/alternator. I had to add turn signals as they are required here in my state. I am also switching to a fuse block instead of running individual inline fuses as the inline holders I have are just too bulky and the fuse block will be much cleaner and easier. I ordered that same Bussman one in the diagram.
The only thing I am not 100% positive on is the brown wire coming from the reg/rec and alternator going to the switch. I am running an on/off toggle for an ignition switch instead of a key. There are only two terminals on the switch so I wasn't sure if the power from the battery goes in one, and then the brown wire from reg/rec gets combined with the wire going to the fuse block into one connector and attached to the other terminal on the switch.... or if the brown reg/rec wire should just run to one of the open fuse slots?
Here is my modified version of the diagram:
Edited to add horn and horn switch to diagram.
The only thing I am not 100% positive on is the brown wire coming from the reg/rec and alternator going to the switch. I am running an on/off toggle for an ignition switch instead of a key. There are only two terminals on the switch so I wasn't sure if the power from the battery goes in one, and then the brown wire from reg/rec gets combined with the wire going to the fuse block into one connector and attached to the other terminal on the switch.... or if the brown reg/rec wire should just run to one of the open fuse slots?
Here is my modified version of the diagram:
Edited to add horn and horn switch to diagram.
Last edited:
So I am ready to slim down and rewire my 1980 hard tail this month. After this weeks inspection in NY I was able to pass without blinkers so that sparked the thought of reducing the loom. Since wiring is the last avenue I must travel down on this bike I just have a few questions that I'm sure will be easily answered, but I still have to ask. Keep in mind if you decide to respond I would like to keep the electric start as well as the kick start, I will have a full sized battery and I do not plan on running a PMA kit. Also I'm comfortable adding neutral, high beam and speedo metering lights so no worries there...
On the diagram below it says 1981 but I'm certain 99% of this looks the same as my 1980 special. The questions I have are these:
1. The blue/white from the starter solenoid goes to a starter switch, correct?
2. Are the two relays pictured below needed? I'm fairly certain the round is blinker relay/cancel and can be removed but unsure about the square one.
3. I assume lighting reserve is coming off. Will it affect the headlight, dimming etc.
4. There is a gold "device" that is hidden in a fake oil bag right now that seems to house two relays. I believe it is a safety relay but I don't see it on the wiring diagram anywhere nor do I have any safety switches on the kickstand or anything. Is it important for shutting of the starter?? Please advise.
5. From the battery it shows a "Power Outlet" stupid as this may sound...What is that and where do I hook it up? Does this literally mean a place to plug my phone charger up to? Because I don't see it on any other diagram.
I have already switched to blade fuses and I have a good idea of what I want to do but any advise on these questions would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to miss something, have the bike fire at home, them drive somewhere and realize it didn't charge correctly or something crazy like that.
Thanks in advance for any help guys/gals.
Normally the starter relay has red/white and blue/white wires. The red/white is battery+ coming from the kill switch going through contacts of the Safety Relay before going to the starter relay. If you are not using the SR then you would have to connect from one red/white to the other red/white. The blue/white normally comes from the starter push button, which supplies a ground.
The wiring diagram you have posted is an abbreviated diagram. If you want to see things like the Safety Relay and RLU, look in the "Tech" section under "Wiring diagrams", where the full factory diagrams are shown. Those 2 relays would be the Safety Relay.
The round item is the turn signals flasher unit. If you want signals then you need that bad boy. It only works with stock #1156 bulbs, not LEDs.
The black item is the flasher auto cancelling unit, which can just be unplugged, as its not needed, and in fact its safer to not have it.
The Reserve Lighting Device is the grey coloured plastic unit. Its not needed but you would have to connect the blue/black to the blue/yellow.
If you delete the SR and the RLU, you would need two "jumpers" to get the Headlight working. Connect the red/yellow to the blue/black at the SR, and connect the blue/black to the blue/yellow at the RLU.
The 1980 did not have a sidestand switch, and neither do you need one.
Craft518
n00b
Retiredgentleman you are a savage my man. Thank you so much this really helps a lot. I was pretty sure I had some of the answers and this solidified everything for me. Looks a lot easier than I originally expected. Clean wiring here I come!!!!
jmiller79
XS650 Member
Hey
New to xs650, I have 78 that i am building this is my first build ever!
wiring is killin me.
i am trying to run just the bare bones starter, head light and tail light. i think i understand most of it. i have reviewed some diagrams off this site. but what is this part? and do i need it? see pic. any help would be great.
thanks
New to xs650, I have 78 that i am building this is my first build ever!
wiring is killin me.
i am trying to run just the bare bones starter, head light and tail light. i think i understand most of it. i have reviewed some diagrams off this site. but what is this part? and do i need it? see pic. any help would be great.
thanks
Attachments
Looks more like the safety relay. It has 5 wires, a yellow, a black, 2 red/whites, and a blue/black.
It's intended purpose was to protect the gears that engage the crank shaft. As you start the engine the yellow wire supplied power to the safety relay. When the voltage on the yellow wire reached 4.5 volts the safety relay tripped and stopped the powere to the starter relay. This way the starter would disengage before the engine over ran the gears.
You can leave it out, but it will increase the wear on the starter gears.
here's a diagram I like. It starts with the basic points ignition and seperate reg and rec as used on the 70-79 bikes. It has the later combo reg/rec in a box. The later TCI is in a box.
The starter is up too the right. Just swap in the boxes to match what you have.
As I said before you can use the SR or not.
If you upgrade to a Pamco just wire it in after the engine stop switch. Or as some call it the kill switch.
Leo
It's intended purpose was to protect the gears that engage the crank shaft. As you start the engine the yellow wire supplied power to the safety relay. When the voltage on the yellow wire reached 4.5 volts the safety relay tripped and stopped the powere to the starter relay. This way the starter would disengage before the engine over ran the gears.
You can leave it out, but it will increase the wear on the starter gears.
here's a diagram I like. It starts with the basic points ignition and seperate reg and rec as used on the 70-79 bikes. It has the later combo reg/rec in a box. The later TCI is in a box.
The starter is up too the right. Just swap in the boxes to match what you have.
As I said before you can use the SR or not.
If you upgrade to a Pamco just wire it in after the engine stop switch. Or as some call it the kill switch.
Leo
Attachments
jmiller79
XS650 Member
Yup saftey relay, I pulled up the wiring diagram for a 78, think ill use it to save the starter.
I plan on mounting the regulator and rectifier and starter relay and fuse box in the fake oil tank. Anyone see any issue with this?? Im worried about heat build up?
thanks for the reply's
I plan on mounting the regulator and rectifier and starter relay and fuse box in the fake oil tank. Anyone see any issue with this?? Im worried about heat build up?
thanks for the reply's
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