Assessment of My Cylinder Bore/Piston Measurements

The intakes have a larger diameter head so are probably more likely to contact the piston first if something goes wrong. So yes, I'd say it probably is more common to bend them. The exhausts run hotter and take more abuse because of it. They may be made of harder, more expensive steel and maybe that's why they cost more. When I test heads for valve leaks, I'm more likely to find them on the exhausts (almost always) as opposed to the intakes (only sometimes). I lap them all regardless because even ones that aren't leaking do have some pits on the seats. They just haven't accumulated enough of them yet to start leaking - but they will eventually.
 
Mikes used to sell the R.I.K. brand which I think were the same as O.E.M. but the last set I just did was some other brand. They seem nice and are made in Japan. I guess I really don't have a recommendation here. O.E.M. are sweet but usually cost more.

A note on using 1st oversize rings in a stock bore. You're going to have to re-use the original expander ring for the oil rails as the oversize one is too big. You can't cut or grind that one so you have no choice.
 
You're way ahead of me - I had meant to ask that very question, but could not think of the name of that particular ring.

It's the wavy/springy one that resembles a cross-section of cardboard in between the two rails, correct? I haven't quite nailed down proper piston-ring nomeclature or anatomy for that matter.

Disclaimer: Image taken prior to carbon removal from Piston.

bth_Expansion_Ring_zps7fa914fc.jpg
 
Yes, you can get replacement discs, probably right at one of the local auto parts stores because this is a K-D brand tool. They make a ton of automotive specialty tools and most auto parts stores have some. They would probably need to order it from the K-D catalog for you but I'm sure they could.

Everywhere I've looked thus far have indicated that the KD-872 (replacement carbide cutter for KD-870) has been discontinued. I am awaiting an eBay item that I believe will be the same item. I'll get back to all on this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/26106048933...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1555wt_1241

Alternative Source: Just talked to Speedway Motors (Nebraska). They have the following currently in stock:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Produ...tId=0&searchPhrase=replacement+for+ring+filer

They list dimensions/specs unlike the eBay item I "won".
 
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Original Measurements

1976 XS650C, ~14,000 miles.

Stock Bore: 75.004 mm (2.95290"). "004" scribed into both cylinders near bottom.

Pistons: 74.953 mm (2.9509") "953" printed atop both Piston Crowns.

Original Piston Clearance: 0.051 mm or 0.002"


Current Measurements

Left & Right (Measurements were identical on Left & Right)

TOP (1st measurement taken parallel to crankshaft, 2nd taken perpendicular...)
2.9544"
2.9544"

MIDDLE:
2.9539"
2.9544"

BOTTOM:
2.9530"
2.9530"

OD PISTON Measurements @ Piston Skirt: Taken 10mm up from bottom edges of the pistons.

PISTONS: 74.955 mm or 2.951" for both L & R.


Crunching The Numbers

I calculate the Piston to Bore Clearance to be:

2.9530" (Min. Bore) - 2.9510" (Max. Piston). = 0.002"

Cylinder Bore Taper: 0.0014"

I'm thinking that I just need to hone the cylinders to remove glaze, use my Pistons (have em' cleaned up real shiny) and go with new 1st OS Rings and grind them down to proper ring gap.

No, I've not used a feeler gauge. Was planning to wait until I get in new rings.

Comments?

Why would you use oversize rings in a std piston you are just making extra work for yourself .Oversize rings are intended for a larger bore when you file them to fit properly in a smaller bore they will not be arched correctly and will take longer to seat in properly.We only did this if the proper size was not readily available but the customer was always the one who made the decision
 
I appreciate and understand your comments, donald. I'll haven't ordered any rings yet, so I'll have to post updates later on as to how things went...
 
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I've recently honed my cylinders with a Flex Hone and remeasured using a new dial indicator mounted in my cylinder bore gauge.

My piston to bore clearance is approximately 0.0024".

I've been trying to figure out where I got the idea that I needed 1st OS Rings. ?? No idea. I'm glad that I was questioned about that.

Anyway, I think that I can go with Standard Rings with such a clearance. Agree?
 
I've recently honed my cylinders with a Flex Hone and remeasured using a new dial indicator mounted in my cylinder bore gauge.

My piston to bore clearance is approximately 0.0024".

I've been trying to figure out where I got the idea that I needed 1st OS Rings. ?? No idea. I'm glad that I was questioned about that.

Anyway, I think that I can go with Standard Rings with such a clearance. Agree?

Yes you are correct .That clearance indicates very little if any wear.Remember to still check the end gap of your new rings
 
Ordered 1st OS Rings from Partzilla. Good prices and good to deal with. Same company as Boats.net. I don't recall the gaps right off hand, but followed 5Twins advice on what he sets rings to.

Update: Refer to bottom of Post #14.

Not sure I'm answering your last question. Before grinding, the gaps on the OS rings were zero or negative. Too big. Took a bit of grinding, but no big deal. Just time consuming.
 
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Thanks for the feedback on the rings. Sounds like the standard ring would have worked.

Refer to Post #7 from 5twins in the below thread:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133

This went into my thinking - I was aiming for the minimum spec. I had PM'd 5twins and/or was in discussion with him in another thread on the use of OS rings (during the same time frame as this Thread).
 
I prefer to hand file it is to easy to take off to much with a ring grinder or a dermal just put your ring between 2pc of 2x4 in your bench vise then take a few strokes of the file and keep checking your ring end gap sure it might be time consuming but it is better to do it right the first time and it wont blow your budget all to hell
 
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