Finally got her home! Quick Fix Ideas!!

Ccanady

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Okay guys so I finally got her loaded up and brought her home. The old lady thinks I should name her Candice lol

Anyway, I'm gonna start with air filters and cleaning up some stuff. I had 2 questions for the experts though:

1. There is obviously a small oil leak under the crank case that I didnt notice before. When i run my fingers underneath it they come out caked in oil. Im assuming that may be bad seals? If so, would it be hard to replace them myself? (Im pretty mechanically inclined but have never disassembled an engine)

2. Given the age of the bike and the fact that I would like to build a cafe..What would you guys recommend I start with (not necessarily aiming towards the build..maybe just maintenance)

Any help would be much appreciated!!
 

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1) clean here up
2) change the oil
3) then the standard tensioner, valves and timing.
4) check your voltage at 3000 rpm
5) check the compression
6) new plugs
7) let us know what you find
 
no matter what you see your bike as, its always best, to start with a good running driveing bike.if you can.it makes it so much easier later on. but its not always possible.

guys that start with a basket of junk and make a running bike are on par with brain surgeons in my estimation.its easy with a harley, ive done it. but harder by much with a jap bike.
 
Looks like a good bike to start with. +3 get it running good, deal with the normal maintenance issues THEN do any mods. Tech section I bought an XS, now what? is a good place to start. Add a head retorque to the list of to-dos.
Clean off the oil, find the source. There are several easy to fix common leak spots.
More or less in order of frequency; clutch push rod seal, sprocket nut loose, drain plug gaskets, sump gasket, head gasket (see retorque above) cam cover gaskets/seals , valve cover o-rings, starter gear case gasket
 
Looks like a good bike to start with. +3 get it running good, deal with the normal maintenance issues THEN do any mods. Tech section I bought an XS, now what? is a good place to start. Add a head retorque to the list of to-dos.
Clean off the oil, find the source. There are several easy to fix common leak spots.
More or less in order of frequency; clutch push rod seal, sprocket nut loose, drain plug gaskets, sump gasket, head gasket (see retorque above) cam cover gaskets/seals , valve cover o-rings, starter gear case gasket

Thanks!!
 
Even well cared for examples of these bikes need a bit of going through. Many of the owner developed "fixes" and upgrades you'll find here are virtually unknown to most 650 owners. I can see by your pic that the rubber washers under the acorn head nuts have not been upgraded to brass or copper. That's the main cause of head gasket leaks. Your plug wires and caps also look original.

ButtonHeads.jpg
 
^^ thanks for that imput. I will definitely add that to the list! I'm tearing down the carbs tomorrow to start with to give them a good cleaning. Then normal maintenance checks. Once that's complete I will begin the needed upgrades.
 
Ok guys. So I just got done cleaning my carbs and adjusting the cam chain tensioner. And wow! It wasn't too bad but parts were worn and some needed replaced. Im attaching a picture (pic 1) of a rubber grommet that was covering what I think is the pilot jet. The first carbs grommet looked brand new but the second was dry rotted. Either way, for now, i just placed it back in and let it be.

The other issue I found was (pic 2) one of the main jets wasn't even screwed down! It was loose and clanking around inside! It seemed to be ok and not damaged so I screwed it back in and closed her back up.

The previous owner did an airbox removal before but thats it. He didnt rejet the carbs and Im confused on 2 issues. One, (pic 3) what is this tube? And if it was to the old airbox, is there a way to remove it and seal up the hole? And two, will I need to rejet the carbs? Once I fired her up after the clean, she seemed to pop more from the intake but I figured that may be from the carb cleaner. It stopped once she was warm.

Thanks for your input guys!
 

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That tube is the case vents that used to go into input tubes in the original airbox halves.
Here's a pic of my stock airbox set removed, shown upside down. You can see the tubes there. You don't want to close it off. There are a few ideas on what to do with it. Some folks go to a single line and put one of those universal crankcase vent filters on it and tie it up, some run a longer hose down into the side cover and let it breathe on the chain, so if there is oil discharge, it goes in a useful place. There's several other ideas.
As far as jetting, with 34's the carb guide says one size up on the main benefits a stock bike. I am 2 up on the mains (probably need to drop back one there) and one size up on the pilots and have K&Ns in the stock airbox. I think the pilot is fine but the main a bit big. I have not gotten it tuned all the way out yet, but the low to mid throttle (where it is the overwhelming majority of my riding time right now) is very nice. I'm on 38's though, as they say, Your mileage may vary. Good deal on going through them and finding the loose jet. Make sure to take a good look at the needle on that side an make sure it didn't get boogered up.
Many folks here just try to make it run, and don't go through all this stuff as a matter of routine, but I found several things on mine that saved me a lot of heartache. I had it for 3 weeks before I rode it, but it's been golden since launched.
DSC00263_zpsaa5abe1d.jpg
 
If you have BS34s, the intake bell is about 2 1/8". A 2" filter is a tight squeeze and may split the mounting flange eventually. Better to go with a 2 1/4". The pod filter of choice is the UNI foam type. You will want the UP4229 or UP4229ST (dual layer).
 
If you have BS34s, the intake bell is about 2 1/8". A 2" filter is a tight squeeze and may split the mounting flange eventually. Better to go with a 2 1/4". The pod filter of choice is the UNI foam type. You will want the UP4229 or UP4229ST (dual layer).

It says on the UNI website that i need the NU-2206...should I not go with that one?
 
Whats the difference? I figured because the airbox is gone, I would need pods..

Some refer to "pods" as the pleated K&N type filters. These particular carbs don't like those. The foam filters more approximate the "still air" intake that these carbs work well with. The original filters were foam as well.
Can't advise on the uni filters. I'm still running the airbox, but I'd go with what 5twins said.
 
The NU-2206 is an airbox replacement filter, not an individual pod. It is speced for the '72 model anyway so wouldn't fit your bike. Your airbox is completely different. What you're looking for is the individual "pod" style clamp-on filter sized properly to fit on your carb. Here's the UNI page for them .....

http://www.unifilter.com/clamp-on/

And here's what you'll end up with .....

Uni-CheckValve.jpg
 
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