Can't adjust my ignition enough..

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jejjk

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I start by writing that I come from Sweden, so my English is not so good :)

I bought an xs650 that I try to get started. According to the previous owner, it has been possible to run with it until the day they put it away, about 10 years ago. The only problem they had with it was that the battery want charge while running.

But my problem now is that I can not set the timing of the ignition right!
I do not get the mark on the rotor to align with the F-mark. On both cylinders is the spark too far to the right of the F-mark, I have adjusted the plate as much as possible can but its still spark to late.. Whats wrong?


The left cylinderna is quite close to the F-mark and it starts and runs ok. But the right cylinder does not go as it should, its pops and backfire, I do not know how close it has to be F-mark to make it work?

Hoping for answers
Best regards / Jacob
 
You didn't mention your ignition system but if you are trying to adjust the timing I assume you have points.
It should fire the plugs with the rotor mark between the two F marks. There is a mark on both sides of the F.
When doing the timing set the right /upper set of points first. These points are mounted on the full plate, The left /lower set are mounted on a half plate. If you set the lower first you change them when you do the upper set.
First I would check the points gap. A to tight a gap and they will be advanced, A too big a gap and they will be retarded.
Seeing as you can't advance them enough I would check the gap. You being in Sweden I assume you are using the metric measurements. The gap should be between .3 and .4 mm. Try setting the gap to one or the other. The size of the gap effects timing.
In theory if you set the points to the middle of the spec then set the points plate in the center of adjustment the timing would be right. That won't happen because of the way thing are made. That's why they make them adjustable, to compensate for wear.
Another thing is the cam chain. If it is loose or worn it lets the cam be retarded. A retarded cam retards the ignition.
One way to check the cam is to put the timing marks at TDC, now check the position of the pin that locks the ATU to the cam. It should point straight up or down. If not then the chain is worn.
I think if you work with the points gaps you can get the timing better.
Oh, as seeing as this is your first post, Let me say Welcome to the board.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
You didn't mention your ignition system but if you are trying to adjust the timing I assume you have points.
It should fire the plugs with the rotor mark between the two F marks. There is a mark on both sides of the F.
When doing the timing set the right /upper set of points first. These points are mounted on the full plate, The left /lower set are mounted on a half plate. If you set the lower first you change them when you do the upper set.
First I would check the points gap. A to tight a gap and they will be advanced, A too big a gap and they will be retarded.
Seeing as you can't advance them enough I would check the gap. You being in Sweden I assume you are using the metric measurements. The gap should be between .3 and .4 mm. Try setting the gap to one or the other. The size of the gap effects timing.
In theory if you set the points to the middle of the spec then set the points plate in the center of adjustment the timing would be right. That won't happen because of the way thing are made. That's why they make them adjustable, to compensate for wear.
Another thing is the cam chain. If it is loose or worn it lets the cam be retarded. A retarded cam retards the ignition.
One way to check the cam is to put the timing marks at TDC, now check the position of the pin that locks the ATU to the cam. It should point straight up or down. If not then the chain is worn.
I think if you work with the points gaps you can get the timing better.
Oh, as seeing as this is your first post, Let me say Welcome to the board.
Leo
Click to expand...

Thanks for fast reply!
I have about 0.4mm gap right now if I remember it right. I will try to tight them upp to about 0.3 or closer and check the timing if it gets any better.

If i will check the cam..
TDC, is that the T-Mark ?
How about the pin that locks ATU(Whats ATU ?:)
How do i check that? Remove the camcover on the top?



I want to get a new Electric system, but I just want it too run befor the Winter with this old setup, because I know it should run with it!
How mush do I have to adjust the timing on a new Pamaco system?..

Thanks for the help!!!
 
Yes, jejjk, the T is TDC. Welcome to the forum

Try starting by adjusting the cam chain tensioner, then the valves, then the timing. Check out the videos.

Anlaf
 
Oh, and as you are on the old charging system, you should get a multimeter and you can check your rotor - it sounds like the PO had a problem charging the battery.

Anlaf
 
ANLAF said:
Yes, jejjk, the T is TDC. Welcome to the forum

Try starting by adjusting the cam chain tensioner, then the valves, then the timing. Check out the videos.

Anlaf
Click to expand...

ANLAF said:
Oh, and as you are on the old charging system, you should get a multimeter and you can check your rotor - it sounds like the PO had a problem charging the battery.

Anlaf
Click to expand...

Videos is great! Any specific video? or just anyone on the tube ? perfect to learn from video

I haven't got too the charging problem yet, just want the MC to run first :)
 
Do you have a repair manual? If so it has pics of the timing marks and how they line up.
It also has pics of the cam parts showing how the parts go together. The points have An ATU or Advance Timing Unit. It's under the right side round chrome cover on the head. The pin I mentioned is the one that aligns the ATU to the cam.
It can be hard to see till you know what to look for. The pics will help.
Leo
 
If I buy a Pamco system right now, do you Think it whould solve the problem? Or do you think it's any other problem with the cam? The timing? or something like that..?

I will try to fix my bike with the Points but Im so tired over just fixing, I just want to ride and try it out :)

But I will give the Point breakers a try...
 
jejjk said:
If I buy a Pamco system right now, do you Think it whould solve the problem? Or do you think it's any other problem with the cam? The timing? or something like that..?

I will try to fix my bike with the Points but Im so tired over just fixing, I just want to ride and try it out :)

But I will give the Point breakers a try...
Click to expand...

I understand that you want to ride and not work on the bike. However, if you install a Pamco before solving the charging problems you may have issues you haven't imagined yet. Do this: adjust the cam chain first, then adjust the valves (engine cold). Now check and adjust points and timing. Points setting and timing is not difficult, get a manual, follow it. Check the advance unit to see that it has free movement (not dragging or stiff) Once the engine is running, start troubleshooting the charging circuit. Hint: check the brushes first, this is a common problem. After all this, then consider a Pamco.
 
you know these bikes came from the factory with points and they really ran as good as anything there was out there in that day.im with purp in that id get it running and chargeing and then go from there.
 
Pamco is fine, but the fellers are right, Jejjk, adjust the cam chain first then valves then timing. If it is not running and you are certain the cam chain is correctly tensioned (see the video and manual) and the valves (video and manual again) you may well want to invest in Pamco or Boyer rather than putting any money to the old system.

Anlaf
 

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