How hard is it to go battery less?

On the coils, the stock coils are rated at 3.9 ohm primaries. hooking them in parallel If I recall the electronics training I had way too long ago. this will divide the ohms in half.
3.9 divided by 2 is 1.95. The Pamco can handles a 2.5 to 4.5 ohm coil. Hooking the two coils this way will have a very strong current flow. The Pamco uses a strong transistor but I wouldn't recommend using that set up.
If you had a ballast resistor to hook line with the coils this would bring the ohms up. Some old cars and tractors used them. I think the one I have is rated at 1.9 ohms. This would add to the 1.95 of the series wired coils, 1.95 + 1.9 = 3.85 ohms This should be ok.
I got the ballast resister for part of a daytime running light project that never got very far. I got it at the local tractor supply store for a few bucks.
Leo
 
Hi folks, I am new to this site and the world of the xs650, but I went ahead and bought one. It needs a ton of work and I have a ton more questions but I can't find a way to start a new thread in this forum format. I'm sorry if I hijacked this thread but I am totally frustrated and was hoping someone could help me out. Thanks in advance, Captain Fun.
 
Hi folks, I am new to this site and the world of the xs650, but I went ahead and bought one. It needs a ton of work and I have a ton more questions but I can't find a way to start a new thread in this forum format. I'm sorry if I hijacked this thread but I am totally frustrated and was hoping someone could help me out. Thanks in advance, Captain Fun.

Are you on a PC, phone, ipad, tablet, drugs? Lol posting is easy just need to know what you are working with.
 
At the top of this page see where it says The Garage, Click it. Now at the top of the page see where it says new thread.
Leo
 
grabbed a pma kit. picked up a sparx capacitor seems as they had good reviews here and the price was decent. i was a bit thrown off though by the fact that the simple wiring diagram that it came with shows the red terminal as my positive to frame?? and yet when i look at how they are being wired by other people the black terminal is being used as ground?
 
so i did my pma swap and it was quik, easy. i still have to install an on/off main and on/off lights switch. once the timing and a few other adjustments are made i believe the bike will not have any real issues with lights dimming too much. starting did take 3-4 kicks but also will be reduced once i put the switch in. i plan on gutting an old battery and using the case to put my fuse bock and capacitor in. i feel having the fake battery will give me a reason to keep the leather battery case.

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I know that you are thinking about battery less, but take a look at these batteries from ballistic performance
http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/batteries.php
the one I got for my 78 is 2.5 X 2.5 X 4 and can crank over a 650 if need be. However mine's kick only so this was a perfect choice for me and saves on lighting issues.

Not to threadjack but will the evo2 50 work on a stock650 without issues? It says its intended for bikes 50cc and smaller but with the kick start it may be an option. What do you think?
 
I used the 4 cell evo 2 witch is 4 long by 2 high and 2 wide more than enough for a kick start. Works awesome runs the system no problem so I would say that the 50 would be just as adequate. They're small but powerful.
 
Adding more circuits is easy. Add a fuse run some wire.
The horn just run power to the horn, run a wire from the horn to the button.
Same with turns. Run power to a flasher, from the flasher to the switch, from the switch to the lights on each side.
Look at most any stock diagram for a 70-71 bike. These are about the simplest diagrams ever used on an XS.
Leo
 
The diodes are just there so you can run a single indicator in your cluster via 2 different signals. They keep all 4 lights from flashing at the same time.
 
If starting from scratch, i.e. purchasing a PMA and an electronic ignition (Pamco, Boyer, Dyna, Newtronic, etc), I would definitely consider getting a Powerdynamo PMA/CDI ignition instead. All in one package, CDI magneto, 150 watt net alternator output (100 watt for the 270 rephase version), basically plug & play. The ignition generates its own power, so does not draw power from the alternator output. This system is capable of running without battery, or with battery/electric start. I have a Powerdynamo on my RD, and it has been great so far! And it is plug & play, all from one supplier. It is also possible to use a programmable Zeeltronic controller with it, if a programmable advance curve is required, but then a battery will also be required. And as far as weight savings go, I believe a small Shorai or Super-B LiPoFe battery cannot be much heavier than a capacitor, and will store more energy.
 
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